No more Brap??? Low-mid-high all gone

[DAG]

pull the carbs make sure you dont have water behind the diaphram holding the n/s open
generally blow them out replace the fuel and enjoy

Oh anothing to check is also the front cover is this doesnt fix the issue but thats a long shot
the spark you are getting sounds about right for a superjet ignition system

can you explane this in a little more detale.. never pulled a carb so i dont understand what you mean by n/s and frount cover?


thanks
-grif

 

[keefer]

Did you ever get an ohm meter and check between the spark plug caps?? If you have a bad wire or bad cap then you will not get a reading. It will appear as an open. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, you should get aroud 4500 ohms if you have the stock Yamaha plug caps. If you have NGK resistor caps you will read about 14000 ohms. You can wiggle the wire around while testing and if the meter goes to open then you have a bad wire. Trim them back an inch or so. Usually you can pull on the conductor and if they come out then trim back at least the length of the wire that came out. This will make your ski run exactly like you are describing. If you insist on running $8.00 iridium plugs then go ahead, but you will get about the same performance from a $2.00 B8ES or BR8ES. Tear the carb down if you want but you should check the plug wires first, alot easier. Everyone I know has had this happen enough to make it one of the first things we check when a ski runs like yours after replacing plugs does not help. :banghead: :banghead:

 

[keefer]

can you explane this in a little more detale.. never pulled a carb so i dont understand what you mean by n/s and frount cover?


thanks
-grif

He is talking about the front smooth side of the carb. It has 4 screws and there is a little hole near the top. If it is full of water then it could be holding the needle & seat open causing gas to constantly feed into the jet chamber. This is unusual but possible. I would first do like I said in my previous post an check those plug wires.:banghead:

 

[waxhead]

i am also talking about the front cover on the engine
to make sure there isnt water inthe front stator area

 

[Matt_E]

i'm using the BR8EIX pluges as thats what was in my system when i bought it.. they were $8 comapred to teh $3 br8es... like i say 100% convinced its nothing eleterical..

If you're dumping fuel straight into the carbs, and you've got good compression, then the only thing left is electrics.
However....the reeds for that side may be bad. Good possibility. Was one carb intake white & milky?

 

[DAG]

He is talking about the front smooth side of the carb. It has 4 screws and there is a little hole near the top. If it is full of water then it could be holding the needle & seat open causing gas to constantly feed into the jet chamber. This is unusual but possible. I would first do like I said in my previous post an check those plug wires.:banghead:

I beleave my carbs are mounted backwards.. the throddle cable attaches to the carb at the rear of the ski... i'll check for the "Smooth side and the hole" tomarrow.. if there is wateer in there how do i get it out??? I do beleave that my be the problem b/c the brand new plugs are wet agen....


However i do haev access to a Ohm meater, my uncle is down and an Electerical Engineer... has been helping mee trouble shoot this thing...
I'm getting heavy STRONG sparks from the boots when i lay them down on the head sideways w/o the spark plugs in the boot and i am getting a strong spark thats jumping form the boot to the head of the cylender. and with the plugs attached its sparking...
I do not have the stock wires or plugs. I'm using Jet Ski Solutitions wires and MSD boots and running an MSD inhancer.. When you say check for 4500 ohms "between the spark plug caps" not shure wat your asking there? are you saying pull the Ebox out, yank the expoxyed wires from the Coil and test from teh end of the wire to the BOOT? or something ealts???? i really dont wont to yank a wire out of the Coil that is getting a heavy spark.. thats only going to cause more problems... and i'm using a different wire cable.. so i'm shure the restence is different...???

i am also talking about the front cover on the engine
to make sure there isnt water inthe front stator area

Whats the frount cover? the top? the head? the flywheel cover??? Very confused on what your are asking.. Total noob.. its ok if you talk down to me... i still might not get it???

..the reeds for that side may be bad. Good possibility. Was one carb intake white & milky?

intake? like the flame arresters? havent seen any white/milky fluid anywear... but not shure if i'm looking in the correct spot???

 

[keefer]

No, don't tear anything apart!! You are thinking way too deep into this. Just put one lead of the meter in one spark plug cap, and the other lead in the other cap. You will be measuring the resistance between the two spark plug caps. Thats it! If you have the stock Yamaha coil you will read about 4500 ohms. You are just checking for continuity across the coil secondary. This is the only way I know to check for bad wires. While you have the meter across the plug caps wiggle the wires near the caps and work your way down. If the meter stops reading and goes back to infinity then you have a bad wire. If the reading stays at around 4500 ohms then the wires are fine. This will take about 5 minutes to complete. At least you will know where you stand with the wires.

 

[DAG]

Thanks i'll do that first thing.. thank god thats alot easter then riping teh ebox apart AGEN!...



thanks
-grif

 

[Matt_E]

Yeah, the inside of the flame arrestor. If you had a failed reed, it would be visible in deposits in that flame arrestor. Don't worry about it.

I vote for water in the gas. But then again, you said you poured fuel right into the carb and it wouldn't fire.

Get new plugs. Remove and clean the carburetors. Drain the fuel tank.
Try again.

EDIT: Do what Keefer says first.

 

[keefer]

Yeah, but just use the $2 B8ES to get your stuff running. No sense ruining a bunch of high dollar iridium plugs until you get it rippin again.:biggrin:

 

[jetskiking]

If your getting fuel and you have good compression then it is probably electrical. When they are talking about checking the coil resistance you put the leads from the meter in each spark plug cap and check the resistance. This will tell you if the coil or wires are bad..Waxhead is saying to pull the flywheel cover and inspect the flywheel stator area for water and damage. if the stator is good then it could be the cdi. If you have a manual then it gives procedures to check each one of the components. If your uncle is an electrical engineer then he should be able to help you test the electrics. I dont think its reeds or the rod because I think it would have shown in the compression check but What do I know?

 

[jetskiking]

Sorry I got distracted and five posts poped up while I was typing

 

[ArtMaybee]

replied before I saw there were three pages of posts....
my reply was too repetitive.

 

[DAG]

I vote for water in the gas. But then again, you said you poured fuel right into the carb and it wouldn't fire.

Get new plugs. Remove and clean the carburetors. Drain the fuel tank.
Try again.

EDIT: Do what Keefer says first.

I dident pore gass into the carb i pumped it a few time with my primer and the throddle valve wide open so it squirts down into the throught as deep as it can...

dont think theres gass in the tank b/c that would not explane why only one cylender is working fine and the other is poop... right???? :fingersx:



so besides checking the wires which i'm 99.999999% shure are 100% fine.. what next... it seams like everything is checking out but my cylender is still dead....?????



Try to sum it all up.

Both cylender plugs are constently Wet and black.. even when using new plugs... i have good compression in each cylender... i squirted gass from the primer down the carb with the throddle open and only the rear cylender will fire... both pluges are getting a strong spark...

i'm thinking something is stuck in teh carb making t flood the frount cylender.. leaving the wet/dirty plugs and not letting it fire??? but what do i know.. hell i dont even know what to look at fofr this problem or even if its possable?





i'm stick agen... What next?




Thanks guys, your a big... i mean HUGE help... and its fun-frustrating learning how everything is working... :headbang:



-grif

 

[CoreyLKN]

if all else fails take it over to cs preformance and have them check it out.

 

[ArtMaybee]

Get the cheap plugs...
if you haven't dumped the old gas you should do it now.

If your boat ran, any water in the bottom end would have been burned or blown out the exhaust. If you are still seeing water on the plugs after running it, then the water has to be coming from your fuel.

an easier way to start a wet engine is to blow out the water and install a dry set of plugs with a wide gap. Get it started and dry and then gap your plugs properly.

You can siphon your fuel into a spare gas can and use it for somthing else. You are pulling your hair out but you should follow some of these guys advice. I think we've ALL sunk our skis at least a few times.

Those Iridium plugs are not the best to run in your ski. You should also be keeping at least one spare set of plugs with you when you go riding. And one old set with a large gap for getting wet motors running again.

It takes compression, fuel, spark, and air.. that;s pretty much it for the motor to run. You seem to have all of those. It doesn't take much spark to light off a cylinder... But water will not burn. You really should try fresh gas.

 

[michael950]

If you have eliminated the possibilty of:

Bent Rod
Bad Reeds
No water in the fuel tank, carbs, lines

And have:
Good coil wires
Good compression
New plugs

Check that MSD enhancer, swap it with a stocker. I had a similar problem with the front not firing intermittantly.

 

[ArtMaybee]

good point michael... I've seen that before too...
I've also had a stock CDI with issues. My boat ran fine as long as you didn't mind it having less power than a 650sj.

 

[DaUpJetSkier]

on a tangent here, my buddy had a similar prob today, i told him to dump the tank try new plugs, anyways how do you check a bad cdi? His ski was running about like my 650sj and his is a very modded 701.

 

[jetskiking]

Running the motor with one of the plug wires off is not the proper way to troubleshoot a the cylinder. Listen to what everybody is telling you its all good information. Start small and work your way to the bigger stuff.