NW FX1 Build w/TOM 21 144 pump tunnel swap.

I did a ton of sanding today followed by a wash and pressure wash. I took down the excess glue ass much as I could around the seams and mounts. I sanded the interior of the hull and mounting plates with 80 grit. The hull is ready to be reinforced now. Any suggestions on reinforcement?

Also does anyone have any input on how and what to mount a pump shoe with?

Merry Christmas y'all.
 

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I'd use no more than 1 layer of 1208 biax to keep the weight down. I used 1708 biax but I always over-do everything and build stuff for surf abuse, plus my hull had a big crack under the rail on the exhaust side that I didn't even know was there. That glue can be removed with a sharp chisel, using it as a blade and tapping it gently at an angle you can cut the glue away easily. Twisting the chisel will also gently pry the excess glue away from the hull. You'll want to lay the ski on its side and fill the bond line with thickened epoxy and chopped strand before trying to lay your reinforcement on the gunnels or engine bay. I always use RTV silicone for the pump shoe, it is very strong and removable if necessary. Its also easy to clean up when installing the shoe. I tape it all off on the shoe and tunnel and then spread a generous amount on any contact area, install the shoe and then wipe away the excess and remove the tape before its cured. Some people use 5200 but I think that's overkill and would be a nightmare to try and replace if you ever had to. RTV is way stronger than most people think...

Also, try to get that glue off the pump side of the bulkhead. FX-1's are notorious for leaking around the bulkhead so you will want to reseal around the bulkhead with 5200! Do it on the backside so if you make a mess nobody will see it haha
 
Last edited:

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
“Some people use 5200 but I think that's overkill and would be a nightmare to try and replace if you ever had to. RTV is way stronger than most people think...”
Brappadoodle

Have to agree.Wondering where,who,or why the whole 5200 started? Anyone that had a 550 way back used RTV silicone to secure the pump shoe.And didn’t have much problem with it coming out.

@DrewOregonian not sure if anyone answered your question? “Also does anyone have any input on how and what to mount a pump shoe with?” Or l misread the question. But 4 stainless screws will hold the shoe in place as you attempt to align the pump.You may have to shim it for perfect alignment
 
I haven't had much time to update this post but have taken a ton of pictures and will be adding them with notes and tips.

I do need some help and input.

I have a 144 stock pump. I need to know what prop to run.

Ported 760 ligthened flywheel, dual 44s, zeel, high comp head.

Was looking into getting a 9/15 hooker but I have a few people telling me I should run different stuff.

I ride at sea level and this pump will be for river riding mainly where I like high speed but good bottom end too. thanks for looking
 
On my Superjet, I am running a ported 760 with lightened flywheel and a 144 Skat-Trak set back mag pump. I was recommended a 10/16 prop and it rips in the midrange and up top, but lacks a bit in the low end. Im not the right person to ask about props, but im pretty sure the Hooker 9/15 is the go to Superjet prop. It really depends on what type of porting you have, along with other factors that will determine what pitch prop will load the pump at the correct RPM. But, I think an FX-1 with added weight plus a 144 pump and tunnel wouldn't be much different than a Superjet in comparison for the prop. I doubt a 9/15 would be a wrong move. The longer I have ridden jet skis, the less desire I have to haul a$$ haha low end and mid punch are where its at for rec riding!
 
I say go with the Hooker 9/15 as well. That's what I have on my fixed steer RN Superjet and it rips hard down low all the way to the top end. I'd highly recommend going that route like brapperdoodle said.
 
On my Superjet, I am running a ported 760 with lightened flywheel and a 144 Skat-Trak set back mag pump. I was recommended a 10/16 prop and it rips in the midrange and up top, but lacks a bit in the low end. Im not the right person to ask about props, but im pretty sure the Hooker 9/15 is the go to Superjet prop. It really depends on what type of porting you have, along with other factors that will determine what pitch prop will load the pump at the correct RPM. But, I think an FX-1 with added weight plus a 144 pump and tunnel wouldn't be much different than a Superjet in comparison for the prop. I doubt a 9/15 would be a wrong move. The longer I have ridden jet skis, the less desire I have to haul a$$ haha low end and mid punch are where its at for rec riding!
Thanks Brap! I appreciate all the input. It seems like every time I have a decision dialed in something undermines the confidence I have in it on the build./setup. I just want to make sure I get it right, and that I can enjoy it this summer!
 
I say go with the Hooker 9/15 as well. That's what I have on my fixed steer RN Superjet and it rips hard down low all the way to the top end. I'd highly recommend going that route like brapperdoodle said.
What kind of engine setup do you have? btw it seems like a few people thought I should be going with a 10/16 or 11/17.

Thanks
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Thanks Brap! I appreciate all the input. It seems like every time I have a decision dialed in something undermines the confidence I have in it on the build./setup. I just want to make sure I get it right, and that I can enjoy it this summer!
You are doing great! Not asking would be worse, we all want to see success in these builds.So keep asking
 
What kind of engine setup do you have? btw it seems like a few people thought I should be going with a 10/16 or 11/17.

Thanks
I've got a LPW ported 718cc, Boyesen Rad Valves, dual 38's, ADA head with 35cc domes, dual cooling, B-pipe with Limited chamber, Jet Maniac waterbox, MSD enhancer and the 9/15 is perfect. I have a 10/16 on my Blaster with a 718 and it does have a little more top end, but the 9/15 is perfect for a stand up in my opinion because I'm not going to be going wide open for long stretches.
 

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
On my Superjet, I am running a ported 760 with lightened flywheel and a 144 Skat-Trak set back mag pump. I was recommended a 10/16 prop and it rips in the midrange and up top, but lacks a bit in the low end. Im not the right person to ask about props, but im pretty sure the Hooker 9/15 is the go to Superjet prop. It really depends on what type of porting you have, along with other factors that will determine what pitch prop will load the pump at the correct RPM. But, I think an FX-1 with added weight plus a 144 pump and tunnel wouldn't be much different than a Superjet in comparison for the prop. I doubt a 9/15 would be a wrong move. The longer I have ridden jet skis, the less desire I have to haul a$$ haha low end and mid punch are where its at for rec riding!
HeyBrapp.... Back in the day when I was pioneering different things to make the FX-1 more awesome, I was directed by other Superjet peeps that I should prop my FX just like a Superjet. Well, it ended up not the same. My 1st impeller for my 1" setback mag pump was a 13*-18*. The first motor I had was a rec ported 760 with dual 46's, B pipe...ect. The ski moved along OK but lacked any snap. I then invested LOTS of money on a "Lamey" 771 cylinder (Dasa) with a set of Full spec 48's, & Advent ignition (the juice wasn't worth the squeeze). That setup never ran right and couldn't spin the 13*-18*. After wasting a season fiddling with that, I bought a 771 Baby Scream. It ran much better, but still felt a little weak in the response dept (still a tad over propped). After more research, I ended up with a 12*-17*. WOW! That 1* reduction in pitch made a world of difference. It woke up the powerband and ripped!
What sucks is that to properly change an impeller, you should remove the motor and use the COLD FUSION alignment tool. When you are experimenting I guess you could swap it out & test. Once you find one you are happy with, do the proper alignment....save the splines & midshaft!
 
HeyBrapp.... Back in the day when I was pioneering different things to make the FX-1 more awesome, I was directed by other Superjet peeps that I should prop my FX just like a Superjet. Well, it ended up not the same. My 1st impeller for my 1" setback mag pump was a 13*-18*. The first motor I had was a rec ported 760 with dual 46's, B pipe...ect. The ski moved along OK but lacked any snap. I then invested LOTS of money on a "Lamey" 771 cylinder (Dasa) with a set of Full spec 48's, & Advent ignition (the juice wasn't worth the squeeze). That setup never ran right and couldn't spin the 13*-18*. After wasting a season fiddling with that, I bought a 771 Baby Scream. It ran much better, but still felt a little weak in the response dept (still a tad over propped). After more research, I ended up with a 12*-17*. WOW! That 1* reduction in pitch made a world of difference. It woke up the powerband and ripped!
What sucks is that to properly change an impeller, you should remove the motor and use the COLD FUSION alignment tool. When you are experimenting I guess you could swap it out & test. Once you find one you are happy with, do the proper alignment....save the splines & midshaft!
Just curious. What would cause the pump to be out of alignment when changing props?

Currently I’m working on two pumps

I already have a 144 solas mag assembled. Has a solas 9/15

2nd oem 144 oem pump 9/15 Hooker

3rd will be 144 oem pump 11/17 Hooker

I mainly want to see the differences back to back. One day. As well as have backups in case I suck up a rock. I ride river a lot. There are places as low as 6 inches so it gets risky. The solas mag will mainly be used for surf.

The 144 mag has been perfectly aligned.

I suppose I can test the other pumps before install my engine and shim them individually and make not. I just don’t see why they’d be any different…..

Thanks for the insight!
 
HeyBrapp.... Back in the day when I was pioneering different things to make the FX-1 more awesome, I was directed by other Superjet peeps that I should prop my FX just like a Superjet. Well, it ended up not the same. My 1st impeller for my 1" setback mag pump was a 13*-18*. The first motor I had was a rec ported 760 with dual 46's, B pipe...ect. The ski moved along OK but lacked any snap. I then invested LOTS of money on a "Lamey" 771 cylinder (Dasa) with a set of Full spec 48's, & Advent ignition (the juice wasn't worth the squeeze). That setup never ran right and couldn't spin the 13*-18*. After wasting a season fiddling with that, I bought a 771 Baby Scream. It ran much better, but still felt a little weak in the response dept (still a tad over propped). After more research, I ended up with a 12*-17*. WOW! That 1* reduction in pitch made a world of difference. It woke up the powerband and ripped!
What sucks is that to properly change an impeller, you should remove the motor and use the COLD FUSION alignment tool. When you are experimenting I guess you could swap it out & test. Once you find one you are happy with, do the proper alignment....save the splines & midshaft!

I thoroughly trust your opinion! I was just guessing at the subject, but I know you have experience through trial and error. Thanks for the input, your suggestions will likely save us lots of time and money! Im still convinced that a well built 701 is all you need to have fun... That and a good hull! :)
 
The 144 mag has been perfectly aligned.

Drew, don't forget to mark and rotate the shaft to different positions. (12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9) because I have checked every shaft I installed and I've never had a perfectly straight driveshaft. You will need to split the difference of the wobble if you have any. Even after being sold the "mack daddy" Torrent pump and told it would be a perfectly straight shaft, it wasn't.
 
Drew, don't forget to mark and rotate the shaft to different positions. (12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9) because I have checked every shaft I installed and I've never had a perfectly straight driveshaft. You will need to split the difference of the wobble if you have any. Even after being sold the "mack daddy" Torrent pump and told it would be a perfectly straight shaft, it wasn't.
Thanks man. Figured this out. Essentially you’ll only get it so good. From what I heard is people use to eyeball it back in the day. I’m confident I have my alignment as good as it will get.
 
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