NW FX1 Build w/TOM 21 144 pump tunnel swap.

[DrewOregonian]

That, or you might need to modify the ride plate and or steering nozzle for clearance. Basically everything in this sport has to be custom fit

LOL. Yeah I'm learning that really quick. Was really tired last night. I think I may build a bracket for the sj nozzle and raise it a bit.

 

[kevbo]

What of trim do you run kevbo? Any recomendations for the 144

I use a stock couch nozzle and gimbal.

 

[DrewOregonian]

I use a stock couch nozzle and gimbal.

Do you have a picture of your setup? When I google gimbal, mainly camera stabilizers show up.

 

[Flash-FX]

Here's another option for Yamaha trim. I made this for a 2019 Superjet, using some factory parts. I don't know if there's enough room for the adjustment knob on the FX (didn't try it but it should work), it's something that's self contained and can be added later when you find out you boat plows. The spring allows free "up"movement which helps reduce breakage. 4000 words...

 

[DrewOregonian]

View attachment 434902
Here's another option for Yamaha trim. I made this for a 2019 Superjet, using some factory parts. I don't know if there's enough room for the adjustment knob on the FX (didn't try it but it should work), it's something that's self contained and can be added later when you find out you boat plows. The spring allows free "up"movement which helps reduce breakage. 4000 words...

Badass thank you.

A lot of people that have put in a larger pump trim their nozzle up. To reduce “a plow effect”

I’m not sure how many people saying this are running stock driveshaft and tunnel.

In my mind if my pump is set back 2 inches further it should be trimming my ski up a bit as well….???

Are you running a 96-06 sj driveshaft that sets the pump back about 2”? Or FX1 driveshaft with stock location and tunnel?

 

[Flash-FX]

Badass thank you.

A lot of people that have put in a larger pump trim their nozzle up. To reduce “a plow effect”

I’m not sure how many people saying this are running stock driveshaft and tunnel.

In my mind if my pump is set back 2 inches further it should be trimming my ski up a bit as well….???

Are you running a 96-06 sj driveshaft that sets the pump back about 2”? Or FX1 driveshaft with stock location and tunnel?

In regards to your pump setback, it doesn't matter. At this point it's the existing FX driveline angle you have to deal with. Because you haven't altered the bulkhead angle and lowered the motor mount pads.

A lot of this has to do with personal preference too. Some riders have trouble adapting to a ski's handling to start with. They get going, then have a porpoising issue. More up trim for them is just adding to the problem. If you don't like to ride too fast,(surf only) this can be dialed out by adding shims on top of the rear most ride plate mounting pads, and leave the nozzle alone. But who doesn't want to ride fast?

The ride plate on my FX is level with the bottom & about -1". And yes, I have a 96-06 SJ driveshaft in my ski, but also have a 1" setback mag pump. Instead of adding a steering cable extension at the tip of the cable, I moved the cable out at the pump bulkhead with a 1/2" short PVC sprinkler extension, 1/2" mip x 1/2" fip. I covered most of the details in my FX build. Have you checked that out? The link is under my Sig.

 

[hornedogg79]

On my old 140 pump fx1 I used a heim joint that screwed straight into the leftover threads of the ride plate mount. Worked great.
On another 144 pump fx1 I used a 65v reduction nozzle which has 5 degree up built in. It gives you more clearance between nozzle and rideplate.

 

[kevbo]

Do you have a picture of your setup? When I google gimbal, mainly camera stabilizers show up.

The gimbal is the ring that is between the fixed and steering nozzle.

 

[DrewOregonian]

In regards to your pump setback, it doesn't matter. At this point it's the existing FX driveline angle you have to deal with. Because you haven't altered the bulkhead angle and lowered the motor mount pads.

Know of any builds that have done this?

A lot of this has to do with personal preference too. Some riders have trouble adapting to a ski's handling to start with. They get going, then have a porpoising issue. More up trim for them is just adding to the problem. If you don't like to ride too fast,(surf only) this can be dialed out by adding shims on top of the rear most ride plate mounting pads, and leave the nozzle alone. But who doesn't want to ride fast?

Lat year was my first summer riding a standup. I started with this Fx1 stock, added bpipe , prop, msd, I guess it as a milled head 165psi. Once I learned to ride it. When going full throttle I would be on my toes in the front tray lurching forward.
I’m hoping my cold fusion stirring with help a bit.
I definitely like to ride fast.

The ride plate on my FX is level with the bottom & about -1". And yes, I have a 96-06 SJ driveshaft in my ski, but also have a 1" setback mag pump. Instead of adding a steering cable extension at the tip of the cable, I moved the cable out at the pump bulkhead with a 1/2" short PVC sprinkler extension

That’s a great idea!

, 1/2" mip x 1/2" fip. I covered most of the details in my FX build. Have you checked that out? The link is under my Sig.

I’ll check it out this weekend all great info. Some of these builds are really cool. Thanks for all the info.

 

[DrewOregonian]

View attachment 434902
Here's another option for Yamaha trim. I made this for a 2019 Superjet, using some factory parts. I don't know if there's enough room for the adjustment knob on the FX (didn't try it but it should work), it's something that's self contained and can be added later when you find out you boat plows. The spring allows free "up"movement which helps reduce breakage. 4000 words...

I’m definitely going to do this, just have to figure out how to replicate it. Thank you.

 

[DrewOregonian]

I use a stock couch nozzle and gimbal.

How do you lock it into place?

 

[DrewOregonian]

View attachment 434925
View attachment 434924
On my old 140 pump fx1 I used a heim joint that screwed straight into the leftover threads of the ride plate mount. Worked great.
On another 144 pump fx1 I used a 65v reduction nozzle which has 5 degree up built in. It gives you more clearance between nozzle and rideplate.

Good stuff. Thanks man. What ride plate is that?

 

[DrewOregonian]

Ended up modifying my pump shoe a bit today. Initially I was going to move the ride plate mounts but decided it makes more sense to keep them. After talking with a few friends I decided to grind the pump shoe down and rest I’ll the mounting hole. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

 

[DrewOregonian]

After running through different setups and scenarios, bilge placement siphon bilge placement. Cooling line placement. I finally figured out how I wanted to run my lines in my tray.

I wanted to keep my siphon bilge. But wanted to run a dual cooling line on the passenger side, on 122 pumps the siphon bilge suction line in the reduction nozzle is on the passenger side. 144 pumps it’s on the left side. So I need to move my tube to the drivers side. I inverted the siphon bilge setup in the engine compartment. Keeping pickup in the same location below the midshaft but turning it 180 degrees and running my new siphon hard line through the drivers side of the bulkhead. Fx1 has a 5/8s line whereas superjet runs 3/8s for their siphon bilge. If I ever decide to run trim. I can delete the siphon bilge and run trim through the new line.

I wanted my dual cooling setup on drivers side as well so. With my pipe bender I was able route it around my tunnel and underneath my drive shaft. You can get a flaring tool for about 30$ from autozone or rent one for free to help your hose stay on, and have the oem looking tubes.

Going to 5200 my lines in and start foaming tomorrow !

 

[DrewOregonian]

By the way, you ski looks great, you're doing awesome! The chines look perfect dude! I wouldn't add any glass mat to the bottom of the hull... too much chance of delaminating unless you vacuum bag it.

when you say don’t add glass to bottom of the hull do you mean wear my chimes are? Because I ground out my epoxy and and laid glass on the bottom of the ski around my tunnel. And then sand and shape them into my chines.

 

[brapperdoodle]

Yeah, I just mean on the bottom of the hull on the outside. Where it will actually be contacting the water. Any air in the mat could get water behind it and start to delaminate because of all the water rushing underneath the ski. I don't know that for sure it will happen, but it is possible.

Also, your idea for the cooling line is really creative and it looks nice. But before you make it permanent, consider that could be possible for debris to get trapped in those tight bends on the line. There is no reason you cant run that line straight through the bulkhead, then run a hose across the midshaft to your exhaust manifold.

P.S. When talking boats, the port side is the "driver side" and the starboard side is the "passenger side" I always remember this because the word port is 4 letters and so is the word left. So I don't get them confused haha

 

[Flash-FX]

After running through different setups and scenarios, bilge placement siphon bilge placement. Cooling line placement. I finally figured out how I wanted to run my lines in my tray.

I wanted to keep my siphon bilge. But wanted to run a dual cooling line on the passenger side, on 122 pumps the siphon bilge suction line in the reduction nozzle is on the passenger side. 144 pumps it’s on the left side. So I need to move my tube to the drivers side. I inverted the siphon bilge setup in the engine compartment. Keeping pickup in the same location below the midshaft but turning it 180 degrees and running my new siphon hard line through the drivers side of the bulkhead. Fx1 has a 5/8s line whereas superjet runs 3/8s for their siphon bilge. If I ever decide to run trim. I can delete the siphon bilge and run trim through the new line.

I wanted my dual cooling setup on drivers side as well so. With my pipe bender I was able route it around my tunnel and underneath my drive shaft. You can get a flaring tool for about 30$ from autozone or rent one for free to help your hose stay on, and have the oem looking tubes.

Going to 5200 my lines in and start foaming tomorrow !

As Brapperdoodle mentioned, the lines from the pump bulkhead to the engine bulkhead should always be straight. "STUFF" will always ruin your day when "it" gets caught up in a bend somewhere. Not trying to ruin your day here...You might be lucky and never have a problem.

I used pour foam in my first time around (bad move). Thinking I knew what I was doing, I re-used the factory aluminum cooling and bilge lines. Electrolysis and corrosion took over and created some new pin holes which in turn filled up that area under the floor mat when I was riding. I had to cut the tray area out and DE-FOAM again. Replacing the OEM aluminum tubing with stainless. I ended up using 3/4" pink insulation foam cut into 3/4" squares (100's of them) and filled in the area under the floor. Water can run freely under the floor if it wants. When that floor area was still open, I added 2 small drains on the back corners (see the side view nozzle up pic in earlier post above). Pour foam is good as long as it NEVER has a chance to sit and soak in water.

 

[hornedogg79]

Good stuff. Thanks man. What ride plate is that?

The Shredmaster. Pretty rare piece. This one went down under to Mr. wax. I think he should make a wax racing plate that looks just like it.

 

[DrewOregonian]

The Shredmaster. Pretty rare piece. This one went down under to Mr. wax. I think he should make a wax racing plate that looks just like it.

Ah nice. That guy’s the people champ. Hopefully they come out soon.

 

[DrewOregonian]

Yeah, I just mean on the bottom of the hull on the outside. Where it will actually be contacting the water. Any air in the mat could get water behind it and start to delaminate because of all the water rushing underneath the ski. I don't know that for sure it will happen, but it is possible.

I suppose I can paint with a thin layer of epoxy?

Also, your idea for the cooling line is really creative and it looks nice. But before you make it permanent, consider that could be possible for debris to get trapped in those tight bends on the line. There is no reason you cant run that line straight through the bulkhead, then run a hose across the midshaft to your exhaust manifold.

Excellent point. Good thing I have a spare line.

P.S. When talking boats, the port side is the "driver side" and the starboard side is the "passenger side" I always remember this because the word port is 4 letters and so is the word left. So I don't get them confused haha

Lol thanks again for all the info. Keep it coming!