OEM 155 Pump Talk

[Gliderskier]

Did some copy and paste work here at the end of work today. Figured this might help those in search of a 155mm pump setup. Hope it helps.

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All those R model skis will not work. It is a different style 155mm pump. Along with any Xlt or SUV. The xl1200 will not work eaither unless it's a 98

 

[96superjet]

Did some copy and pasting at the end of work and figured I'd contribute for those on the search for a 155mm pump setup.

All those R model skis will not work. It is a different style 155mm pump. Along with any Xlt or SUV. The xl1200 will not work eaither unless it's a 98

I'll edit the doc later tonight or tomorrow and send it up again.

 

[JetManiac]

This is a 155 pump from a 98 XL1200 I had laying around. I drilled and tapped it for dual cooling today, but then realized the 4 long bolts that hold the pump sections together don't thread into wear ring like they do on a 144 pump.

So, what a cost effective way to rectify this? I'm thinking tap the front holes on the wear ring and thread in helicoils. That way it would be held together like a 144 pump.

I suspect they make threaded after market 155 wear rings, but that sounds expensive. Are there any OEM wear rings that are threaded that might be cheaper and easier to swap out?

The Blaster 2 is the only 155 oem pump which had the wear ring threaded and the correct length long bolts. The 97 B2 also has the trim reduction setup.

The long bolts from other 155 couches can be cut down the correct length, but you also need the use a die and extend the threads a little farther.

 

[air blair]

Oh ya, jetmaniac can hook y'all up anything pump related. Cut shafts to different size bearings needed and impros can hook up whatever prop pitch u might fathom up

 

[TheBuzzard]

This is a 155 pump from a 98 XL1200 I had laying around. I drilled and tapped it for dual cooling today, but then realized the 4 long bolts that hold the pump sections together don't thread into wear ring like they do on a 144 pump.

So, what a cost effective way to rectify this? I'm thinking tap the front holes on the wear ring and thread in helicoils. That way it would be held together like a 144 pump.

I suspect they make threaded after market 155 wear rings, but that sounds expensive. Are there any OEM wear rings that are threaded that might be cheaper and easier to swap out?

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thats a nice reduction nozzle with the blanks for the trim ring mounting. a lot of OEM center sections work a lot better if you rotate them up side down. the steering cable clears the cooling fittings better and a lot of times the cable hits when you pull trim. just pull the dowel pins and rotate it. the blaster 2 is the only one that uses the rubber pump seal like SJ. all the rest of the pumps bolt thru the pump onto the big metal intake duct, which is why it takes longer bolts and the holes arent threaded.

 

[kevbo]

Anyone ever fill the center to match a large hub impeller?

 

[D-Roc]

I got one of those crappy TBM pump stuffer modded to fit my oem 155 pump. And yes I run a e-75 9/15 swirl with it. Mid size tail cone and 90mm exit nozzle.


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[air blair]

This may sound elementary but isnt all 155 props big bub?

 

[schicks]

correct me if im wrong, but i think the 97' venture 760 came with a 155 pump, as did the 98' venture with a 701 came with a 155; both with the correct wear ring. I get that from the hot products catalog. It also says that both of those models came with an 11/14 prop and they recommend a 7/12 for an upgrade on stock 701 engines and 7/14 for stock 760 to limited 701 engines.

 

[JT_Freeride]

I talked to impros they told me an equivalent 9/15 is a 7/12. And the 10/16 would be a 8/13.

 

[D-Roc]

Not all 155 props are big hub. At least not from skat. If you tell them you want the e-75 then you will get a big hub.

 

[D-Roc]

I talked to impros they told me an equivalent 9/15 is a 7/12. And the 10/16 would be a 8/13.

What are you comparing?

 

[JT_Freeride]

A 144 hooker to a big hub 155

 

[D-Roc]

I went from swirl 12/17 c-75 (144) to a swirl 9/15 e-75 (155) no engine changes. Different tail cones and nozzle diameters for dialling it in. Different turn nozzle is needed as well.

 

[JT_Freeride]

I went from swirl 12/17 c-75 (144) to a swirl 9/15 e-75 (155) no engine changes. Different tail cones and nozzle diameters for dialling it in. Different turn nozzle is needed as well.

What engine are you running?

 

[D-Roc]

Cast dasa pv 771ss
I run msd TL and 48 power bomb carbs with a b-pipe. Kinda old setup but works great.

 

[WB1994]

Ok , question time. Wasnt the magnum pump brought to market in the hayday of racing? Designed for racing? With the knowledge that compressing the volume in the 144 pump created a greater preasure exiting the pump which in theory creates a faster ski? With the downside that less volume equals less thrust so it was meant more for the midrange to higher speeds of buey chasing? Isnt this why they tried to counteract this by creating larger pumps to put the volume back into the equation?

So isnt it counteracting to pump stuff or big hub anything freestyle oriented?

 

[D-Roc]

Big hubs reduce internal volume so the inside of the pump can fill and prime faster. This theory is for any pump diameter. Bigger pumps give better hole shot or bottom end power and will reach the same speeds but doing it with less pressure and more volume. To a certain amount. Eventually to get higher speeds you will need more hp to power the pump to higher pressure, or go down in pump size and setup the smaller pump to create a higher spped pressure at the loss of some bottom end. Pumps are very tuneable.

 

[WB1994]

Another question ... how much volume difference is there in front of an impeller thats setback compared to nonsetback? A couple or three cups of water? Taking just that volume , how fast does a pump prosses that volume? A thousandth of a second? Is that really a factor in flatwater areals? Couldnt I also use the argument that a setback takes longer to stuff with water when landing which hinders the next trick?

Wasnt the setback also designed for racing? Why?

 

[JetManiac]

We just turned the stock bolts around backwards and installed SS 6mm nylon nuts (see attachment). The pump we did this too was a GP800 pump, which is a 144, but had no threads in the wear-ring like the 1200 pumps.

This a creative solution but not recommended. With this setup, you have to pull the entire pump. The disadvantage is that you mess up your alignment everytime you pull pump to swap props or whatever. When you first install your pump, carefully align it with the midshaft and motor removed. Then align midshaft and motor. One of the great things about using a 2 piece pump design is that you can then remove pump, but leave the wear ring sealed and aligned in place. Then you can reinstall pump while preserving alignment and pump seal without pulling motor and midshaft to redo. (Of course, You must put same shims under reduction nozzle.)