OEM lightened flywheel review

SUPERJET-113

GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
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Jetinetics told to send in my cracked around the hub Jetinetics purple 61X flywheel and they would give me 25% off a new one. I never did and just ended up buying a RIVA
RAD like Roberts in the pic. Now I sold that and am going to total loss. Aluminum flywheels are expensive, but they kick ass for throttle response! But for the price to lighten a stocker, you cant beat that bang for the buck either.
 

Powder

( o Y o )
Location
Cleveland
I just picked up one of these:
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..and all the parts to go with it. :biggrin:
 
Doug,

I just spouted some theory over on PWCToday.com regarding machining a flywheel and would like you to run a couple experiments on your Solidworks FEA program (to prove the theory), if you don't mind...

Please show the stresses on the OEM, untouched flywheel.

Next, please taper the flywheel face. Start at the steel hub, going maybe to .050 deep at the outermost edge. Also machine the outer diameter down by .050. The point here is to see the stress levels and how they differ from the OEM test...

Next, machine an OEM flywheel face by .050 - put maybe a 1.0 inch radius between the steel hub and the machined face. Also take off .050 from the OD, and rerun your FEA. Again, the point is to see the stress and the difference between OEM, the tapered face, and the radiused face.

I'm pretty sure the two methods above will better distribute stress than your straight machined face. I am curious to see if both are below ultimate tensile stresses of the material (anyone know what this is, by the way?).

However you load the part, please do it the same way for each example.
 
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It seems like everyone is lightening 61x flywheels. How much can a 62t flywheel be lightened and is it as noticeable of an improvement as the lightened 61x flywheel?

If a lightened 62t flywheel will show that much of a an improvement then for $55 my flywheel will be in the mail on its way to Paul after Daytona. :biggrin: You can't beat that bang for the buck.
 

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
Doug,

I just spouted some theory over on PWCToday.com regarding machining a flywheel and would like you to run a couple experiments on your Solidworks FEA program (to prove the theory), if you don't mind...

Please show the stresses on the OEM, untouched flywheel.

Next, please taper the flywheel face. Start at the steel hub, going maybe to .050 deep at the outermost edge. Also machine the outer diameter down by .050. The point here is to see the stress levels and how they differ from the OEM test...

Next, machine an OEM flywheel face by .050 - put maybe a 1.0 inch radius between the steel hub and the machined face. Also take off .050 from the OD, and rerun your FEA. Again, the point is to see the stress and the difference between OEM, the tapered face, and the radiused face.

I'm pretty sure the two methods above will better distribute stress than your straight machined face. I am curious to see if both are below ultimate tensile stresses of the material (anyone know what this is, by the way?).

However you load the part, please do it the same way for each example.

I will look into this but it will take some time with the holidays around the corner. Not to mention that taper features may take some time to get to work correctly. Let me see what I can do.

P.S. The model that you see right there is just from 'rough' dimensions. I didn't actuallly measure a flywheel to get it exact. The stresses that you see could be a baseline for the OEM flywheel untouched.

Doug
 

michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
Fly, that seems to be the consensus. Key change being a noticeable difference in throttle response.

Now is it the same "noticeable difference" as going from a 650 to 760 or 701 to Lamey BB stroker? Probably not, but one costs thousands and one cost ~$55. And you can notice a difference in the lightened flywheel, but I am not sure how much.

Consensus is, it is the best bang for the buck.
 

Robby

X
Location
Indiana
With a lightened flywheel, do you have to increase your idle RPM to keep the engine from dying? Are there any bad "side effects" from lightening a flywheel?
 
Location
Ohio
I guess if I had to put some # behind it I would say I get 17% more bottom end hit for $55 bones. I would say it is very noticeable.
 
With a lightened flywheel, do you have to increase your idle RPM to keep the engine from dying? Are there any bad "side effects" from lightening a flywheel?

The lighter the flywheel the harder the HIT! In freelstyle, freeride i would want all the hit I can get.

In racing, it could cause a little more fatigue as far as hanging on. I have heard that a lightened stock flywheel is better for racing so that through corners the boat is not so 'JERKY", as a billet flywheel is still much lighter. I wish I had $ for a billet flywheel..... the best way to go for freestyle IMO.
 
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