Super Jet Project Dance-floor

Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Req said:
I was thinking about drilling 1/8 holes through much of the plate to assist in getting a good bond, acting as fingers that penetrate the aluminum. Additionally I will rough up the surface of the plate. I have both cabosil and glass beads I can use as thickener.

Do you think the taper is necessary? I figured that between the epoxy squeezing up through the holes from below as well as some flowing down from wetting out the S-glass I would get good penetration.
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Well, it can only help. And or drill at angle.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Big Kahuna said:
Well, it can only help. And or drill at angle.
Click to expand...

I think I will chamfer all the holes on both sides. Like you said, could not hurt to funnel the epoxy down through the holes a bit.

What do you think angled holes will accomplish? Im trying to wrap my head around how that would improve the bond. I thought all we were trying to do is give more surface area for a mechanical bond. Does resin bond better at oblique angles in this circumstance?
 
SELF27

SELF27

Location
Austin, Texas
Man!!, So glad to see this hull lives on!!! I was original owner, my parents bought this ski for me and my older brother in summer of 1992 from dealership in Ardmore, Oklahoma. I owned this ski until 2012 or 2013. We used the ski every summer on Lake Texoma for countless hours of fun. In 1996 or 97 I broke the stock handpole and decided to buy a ac racing one and paint ski. I stripped it down and painted Chrysler blue. It was my first attempt at ever at painting with automotive two stage paint. At the time I didn't know you could wet sand paint before shooting clear over it and thought you had to get it perfect! lol!! I remember painting in my dads garage with just box fan in window and wetting floor. Turned out pretty good for what I knew and my environment. I had a local sign guy make all the white stickers like the yamaha factory racing and factory pipe. I remember how crooked they where on hood but didn't want to have to remove and have made again! I then put a factory B pipe and high comp cylinder head on it. Took to the lake and motor lasted 15 minutes!!! man it ran great that day until it blew up!!. The motor was just tired from all those years of riding and the higher compression and more rpms from pipe just took out crank. I didn't money to fix right away and then moved to Phoenix, AZ to go to MMI. While there my dad crated up motor first and sent to me. I rebuilt motor and then he shipped ski to me. I rode there in phoenix at lake pleasant while living there. That's where I lost the nose piece cover. I ended up finding nose piece later that year when lake went down but it was broke. While in Phoneix I got a 760 from a 98 gp760 and put that in ski. It never ran that great with the 760 and the 650 pipe. It was just too choked up. After graduating MMI I moved to San Diego and took ski with me there. I rode it in mission bay and at el capitian lake mostly. Moved back to Oklahoma in 2008 and rode there couple times and then got a job in Austin, Tx in 2010 and moved. I rode ski here some but bought a round nose from by brother and never really rode the squarenose much after that. usually just let my friends ride. I swapped the pipe to a Riva freeride thinking it would run better, but it just never had bottom end with the 760 ported cylinder. I sold to a guy from Houston who stripped all the parts off it and sold them I think? I know he sold it to another guy before rutland racing member had it on here. Glad to see it will live on!! Hope you get it all redone like you want. sub'd thread. Cant wait to see it finished!! Was a great ski for me and my family!!! Here's some pics of ski when I owned it.IMG_2998.JPGIMG_E2999.JPGIMG_2991.JPGIMG_2992.JPGIMG_2990.JPGIMG_2993.JPGIMG_2997.JPG
 
Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
If it is bonded vert if the bond below the alum were to fail some, it would basically be slipping up. But if some holes were at an angle, it would give it more "Grab" Imagine a 4wheeler straped to a trailer and 4 straps just go up and down to hold it. now take the straps and pull from the corners. It is harder for the 4 wheeler to move any. All this may be over kill. But I have seen inserts pull out of some freaks and other hulls. Main key is getting the plate bonded and covered really well.
 
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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Big Kahuna said:
If it is bonded vert if the bond below the alum were to fail some, it would basically be slipping up. But if some holes were at an angle, it would give it more "Grab" Imagine a 4wheeler straped to a trailer and 4 straps just go up and down to hold it. now take the straps and pull from the corners. It is harder for the 4 wheeler to move any. All this may be over kill. But I have seen inserts pull out of some freaks and other hulls. Main key is getting the plate bonded and covered really well.
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Quick question. How thick is the aluminum on the inserts as a rule? I figured half inch would be enough thread depth but it may need more.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Big Kahuna said:
Not sure, 3/8-1/2"?
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So I just looked at my Raider and the inserts have at least 3/4" of thread. I then measured the length of the bolt that sticks through the mount and its right at a half inch.

20190110_122640[1].jpg

If I use a half inch plate I would have to drill into the glass a bit to allow it to tighten all the way down. I think the thread contact is more than adequate I am just not sure if drilling into the glass a quarter inch to allow it to pop through the plate is going to be a problem. Im leaning toward 5/8 but 3/4 may be ideal, just more routing I have to do.
 
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hornedogg79

hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
I'm gonna go ahead and give you some ridiculous advise. Although I don't think it's any more ridiculous than doing so much work to move your motor back. Get your mounting area level and set your motor where you want it. Drill holes through your hull and countersink lag bolts from the bottom with lock washers and nuts on top. It'll be much stronger than aluminum threaded plate. I've seen several 440 bulkhead braces mounted this way. Way less work.
 
Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Yeah, you could use some flat head socket head bolts, counter sunk.

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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
hornedogg79 said:
I'm gonna go ahead and give you some ridiculous advise. Although I don't think it's any more ridiculous than doing so much work to move your motor back. Get your mounting area level and set your motor where you want it. Drill holes through your hull and countersink lag bolts from the bottom with lock washers and nuts on top. It'll be much stronger than aluminum threaded plate. I've seen several 440 bulkhead braces mounted this way. Way less work.
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That is an interesting thought, I am going to have to think about that one. Thanks for the out of the box solution!

Edit: My concern would be water intrusion, serviceability of the bolts and the fact its a bit unorthodox.
 
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Sanoman

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Req said:
That is an interesting thought, I am going to have to think about that one. Thanks for the out of the box solution!

Edit: My concern would be water intrusion, serviceability of the bolts and the fact its a bit unorthodox.
Click to expand...
Nothing a dab of 5200 wouldn't take care of. what do you mean by serviceability
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Sanoman said:
Nothing a dab of 5200 wouldn't take care of. what do you mean by serviceability
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Since the bolt would not be captive, every time I needed to pull the motor mounts I would likely have to chip off the 5200 and clean it up just to get an allen on it to tighten the mounts to the hull, otherwise it will just spin.

Just a different order of operation to learn, nothing that is a deal breaker. Would add 30 minutes to a motor mount install down the line.

The bolts through the hull seems like a super strong solution, I would probably never lose the mounts.

I still have not discounted the embedded aluminum plate an an option. While a lot more work it seems like a more traditional solution.

Additionally I have an idea kicking around that is a hybrid of the two ideas. Bolts countersunk into the the glass from the bottom and threaded into the epoxied plate from underneath with cabosil and glass covering the bottom of the bolt heads. Cover the top in eglass and tap the mounts as originally planned for motor mounts. the plate would never come out and the motor mounts would take stock yamaha hardware. It would take even longer to do but I am a glutton for punishment so I am considering it.

Decisions decision.
 
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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I am moving to the back of the hull while I think on the motor mount options. I drew out where I plan to chop the rear, its -2" in the picture.

Any recommendations on this part? I wont be cutting for a few hours so any input is welcome.

20190111_142954_HDR[1].jpg
20190111_143009[1].jpg
 
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