I think the taper on the back deserves an explanation regarding the method I used for future turfers. All of the areas I sanded or layed the foam I marked grids.
Initially on the fiberglass I tallied out 3" spaced lines for the rear section of the tray with a black pen, this ensured that all the foam was symmetrical when I layed it down. Additionally each layer of foam I stacked I re measured and marked the proper location. Once the stair step was complete I marked an approximation of where the top of the kicker would end up so when I sanded I would keep it symmetrical. Sticking with the line is not important, using it as reference when sanding is why its put there.
On to the rear edge. I started out thinking I wanted it sort of flush however after looking at it aesthetically and ergonomically I decided to taper it with the angle of the gunwale. Again I marked a reference line across the back however I did not stick to it, simply ensured my curve was symmetrical using it as reference. I took a bread knife and from the tray side of the ski, mirroring the angle of the gunwale, and paying attention to the reference line and knife angle, gently cut with a mild sawing motion, riding the edge of the fiberglass at the rear as a guide. Once my initial cut was complete and I ensured there were no major variation side to side I pulled out the orbital and 40 grit and smoothed out and rounded the rear.
Initially on the fiberglass I tallied out 3" spaced lines for the rear section of the tray with a black pen, this ensured that all the foam was symmetrical when I layed it down. Additionally each layer of foam I stacked I re measured and marked the proper location. Once the stair step was complete I marked an approximation of where the top of the kicker would end up so when I sanded I would keep it symmetrical. Sticking with the line is not important, using it as reference when sanding is why its put there.
On to the rear edge. I started out thinking I wanted it sort of flush however after looking at it aesthetically and ergonomically I decided to taper it with the angle of the gunwale. Again I marked a reference line across the back however I did not stick to it, simply ensured my curve was symmetrical using it as reference. I took a bread knife and from the tray side of the ski, mirroring the angle of the gunwale, and paying attention to the reference line and knife angle, gently cut with a mild sawing motion, riding the edge of the fiberglass at the rear as a guide. Once my initial cut was complete and I ensured there were no major variation side to side I pulled out the orbital and 40 grit and smoothed out and rounded the rear.
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