Freestyle RCW Brawler Build for 2016, ET1107 PICS ENGINE BUILT!!

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
Mount that pole shockpad to the bottom of the handpole, don't have to ugly up your hood, don't have to mess with threading the hoodstraps through that stupid cutout, don't have to have one for each hood.
 

Th3g3rm4n4t0r

Brawlin' n Flippin'
Here's the other painted parts. Im still probably going to paint my crank cases, mid shaft housing, jet pump nozzle, not sure what else. Ill see what comes to mind.

Everything is epoxy primed and painted gloss black.

IMG_2974.JPG

IMG_2975.JPG IMG_2976.JPG IMG_2977.JPG
 

Th3g3rm4n4t0r

Brawlin' n Flippin'
sorry the veins then? I just like to see 155 pump setups, and you always have a ton of pics. I just figured you would have a pic of that.

Here you go. First and second pic is when old bearings were in it.... Clearance was WAY to tight, the pump seemed to spin perfectly. But at one point there was a small bump/flat spat every now and then. Good thing i tore it apart.

Pump is sealed with RTV, no leaks air getting in etc. Had to cut off the old welds in the lathe and reweld and cut for better clearance.
IMG_2709 (1).JPG
IMG_2741.JPG






IMG_2965.JPG IMG_2966.JPG
 

Th3g3rm4n4t0r

Brawlin' n Flippin'
Spent my last couple hours at work truing my crank. Shop has been fairly quiet the past few weeks. i will admit my boss helped me a little bit, still learning everyday. This one was way out of wack. I could only get it 3 thousands of an inch out from perfect.. oh well. I will probably buy a brand new one and keep this one as a spare! Or throw it in my VXR 650 couch!!

IMG_2973.JPG
 

Th3g3rm4n4t0r

Brawlin' n Flippin'
@Quinc

Wack certain spots with a copper hammer... seen on the right of crank in pic. Sometimes when its really bad you pinch it in the vise. Sounds crazy but yes!

Ill try and break it down to the basics... Think of the crank pins and how they operate, you can have a crank webs off to one side so to the left or right and a lot of the time towards each other or away from each other. You use the dial indicator and measure run-out while you are spinning the crank on v blocks, by doing so you can see the hi and low points and can figure out if the web or webs need to be closed or opened.

If you wanted to close a web you would squeeze both of them together with what i prefer a vice, and tap it with a non maling hammer cause sometimes they get heavy AF!





If you wanted to open it i use a copper hammer to force it outward.

After all this, think of a straight edge, a long ruler. You want everything on that crank to spin in a straight line (very little run-out) !!


It sometimes takes quite awhile to get one trued up. especially triple cranks. If your really anal about it being perfect it could take awhile to get to .001 or less by going back and fourth beating the poop out of it for hours basically.

Hopefully i did ok explaining this, its how i look at it. Still learning everyday and its awesome. Its always changing, not all cranks are the same. Its literally alegebra. Problem solving!
 

Th3g3rm4n4t0r

Brawlin' n Flippin'
Decided to do something small today, installed my motor mounts. Was itching to do something. Its a good thing i did, i need to helicoil one of the bolt holes. I already tried tapping it and it didnt work.

Anyone have info on how much material is under there that i can drill out?
IMG_2983.JPG
 
Motor mounts in yours are billet
ebdc7b37d1ee0547a0aaef7a07e9270d.jpg


Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah they are put in when they lay up the bottom deck not sure how thick they are tho

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
 
Top Bottom