smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Removing Top Deck? (1987 JS550 Rebuild/Engine Swap)
- Thread starter smokeysevin
- Start date
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
High humidity can extend the fully dry time 2-3 times in some cases
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Tank pads, waterbox beauty rings, waterbox back strap, front fill cover, tank turf, tank straps. Still working on stuff, will update later.
Sean
Sean
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene Idaho
I have so far to go in this thread, but this is straight up hilarious!!! This build is for real.
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Sean Scrambles to Satisfy Standup Success (general assembly and progress update)
Time Spent:
36 Hours (over a few days.)
Tools Used:
90% of my stock
Tools Properly Put Away:
54%
Materials Used:
Who knows at this point? I have sure as hell stopped keeping track of what it has cost...
PPE Used:
Appropriate for Tasks
Safety Sandalls
Number of scratches added to fresh paint: 16
Total swear words directed towards jetpump/shoe: 750,469
Percentage complete:
60% (I think I am starting to get over the hump on this, it is getting really close but I know the last 10% takes 90% of the time which is why I plan to sneak up on it by convincing myself I am really only 60% there. Crazy like a fox)
I have finally started tossing stuff back together, summer is getting long in the tooth and I am sick of this thing being strewn across my garage, not making brapp noises.
Last week I got the motor torn down. I gave the jugs a quick flogging with a dingleball hone, then thoroughly flushed them in the parts washer. The crank got new seals and new piston pin bearings. The pistons got dunked in the ultrasonic cleaner until they were decarboned and then tossed onto the crank with new rings. The motor got all new gaskets thanks to our friendly neighborhood @JetManiac and I pressure tested until it held as intended (Big Pin 750 Rebuild Quesitons).
While I was waiting for the threebond to dry on the cases, I rebuilt the pump with a kit I picked up from @brapperdoodle (gracias amigo) and learned how weird the 750 pumps are compared to modern setups. I only had to take the pump apart once to figure out what was wrong so that was nice. The pump got stuffed with a 10/16 Hooker (750 Swap Prop Recommendations)
I got some shiny new cooling line fittings and placed an order for my "fuel line" to connect the cooling system up but that got held up in USPS limbo. (Cooling Line Recommendations)
Even though I had already installed glued in, and flared the cooling lines on the inside of the hull, I had done none of those things on the outer section. That made things super fun to cut and flare the lines with the limited space in the tunnel space... I ended up "clearancing" my flaring tool with my angle grinder so now it is a custom tool. Something tells me I won't get my tool deposit back from o'reilly's anymore if I were to try and take it back.
Installing the jet pump proved to be a massive pain, the gasket on the front of the pump REALLY didn't want to slide nicely into the shoe, I ended up using some RTV to glue the gasket to the pump, then add a slight lead in chamfer to the gasket. I also added a slight lead in to the shoe which was a tricky thing to do since it was already glued to the hull... not too bright of a move on my part. There is almost no room to install the pump hardware once the cooling lines are installed. I found out after installing the pump that I had cut the cooling/bilge lines longer than I should have so fitting that hose is going to be a real pain but it should be possible without pulling the pump. Learn from my mistakes on this one...
To stay busy, I started working on throwing stuff together again. I got my coil plug leads sleeved and terminated with self-extinguishing wire sleeving from wirecare and new MSD plug ends from Jegs. Hopefully I did the plug leads right, this was my first time doing them but it seemed relatively straightforward.
That stuff done, I checked over the motor and found out I had the wrong starter bendix (I had swapped it with a kawi 4 stroke one which spins the opposite direction) installed so I got to take the flywheel back off and replace it with the OG that came with the motor. The cold fusion flywheel lock came in handy so I am glad I kept it.
Crisis averted, I started fitting the controls and upper pole vent/passthrough. The stock tube was drilled out and removed and I had originally planned on using some kanaflex but the specific version that I bought (a year or so ago...) was too stiff and I didn't like how it popped when the pole went from fully down to slightly up. I ran to holmes depot today and picked up some 1-7/8" ridgid shop-vac hose and set to work making that make sense. I ended up chopping the "threaded" section of the coupler off, sanding the OD down to fit inside a 1.5" long section of 2" ID silicone connector then smushing that into the hole I cut in the pole mount. The vacuum hose itself is about 1.5 feet long and is free fitting inside the 2" SCH 40 pvc pipe I replaced the stock tube with. To install the pvc pipe I had to add a clearance recess into the lower section of the pole and "persuade" the tube in. I then took a 2" pvc coupler and coped it at an angle to match the angle of the inner pole structure to give the new tube something I could attach it to the pole with.
Once I was happy with that, I grabbed one of the many kawi runabout start/stop switches and spliced an extra 1.5 feet of wire in the middle then sleeved it with braided shielding. The kill switch wiring, 750 throttle cable, and steering cable were then run down the tube and the pole was installed along with one of the wax racing pole locks. I have a 2000 seadoo XP choke cable on the way to wrap up the controls side of things.
Remaining Items:
cooling line install
fuel line install
stinger outlet install
wiring
bilge pump
battery cables
reinstall vin plate (removed for painting and because it fell off...)
install other side graphics
install rego numbers
throttle/choke cable mounts
cut/seal exhaust tube
fab/install opposite side "exhaust" blockoff plate
Sean
2" Sch 40 24" long tube
Tube Clearance and Hose Spec
Installed Stickout
Coped Locking/Locating Flange
Installed Passthrough
Vacuum Hose "threaded section"
Hose Clearance and Install
Pole Lock from Wax Racing
Bolted in and aligned and sleeved coil installed. I did have to clearance the aluminum bedplate because the stinger coupler for the exhaust is really big.
Room for activities? Ignore the non-stuck hood seal...
Purdy.
Time Spent:
36 Hours (over a few days.)
Tools Used:
90% of my stock
Tools Properly Put Away:
54%
Materials Used:
Who knows at this point? I have sure as hell stopped keeping track of what it has cost...
PPE Used:
Appropriate for Tasks
Safety Sandalls
Number of scratches added to fresh paint: 16
Total swear words directed towards jetpump/shoe: 750,469
Percentage complete:
60% (I think I am starting to get over the hump on this, it is getting really close but I know the last 10% takes 90% of the time which is why I plan to sneak up on it by convincing myself I am really only 60% there. Crazy like a fox)
I have finally started tossing stuff back together, summer is getting long in the tooth and I am sick of this thing being strewn across my garage, not making brapp noises.
Last week I got the motor torn down. I gave the jugs a quick flogging with a dingleball hone, then thoroughly flushed them in the parts washer. The crank got new seals and new piston pin bearings. The pistons got dunked in the ultrasonic cleaner until they were decarboned and then tossed onto the crank with new rings. The motor got all new gaskets thanks to our friendly neighborhood @JetManiac and I pressure tested until it held as intended (Big Pin 750 Rebuild Quesitons).
While I was waiting for the threebond to dry on the cases, I rebuilt the pump with a kit I picked up from @brapperdoodle (gracias amigo) and learned how weird the 750 pumps are compared to modern setups. I only had to take the pump apart once to figure out what was wrong so that was nice. The pump got stuffed with a 10/16 Hooker (750 Swap Prop Recommendations)
I got some shiny new cooling line fittings and placed an order for my "fuel line" to connect the cooling system up but that got held up in USPS limbo. (Cooling Line Recommendations)
Even though I had already installed glued in, and flared the cooling lines on the inside of the hull, I had done none of those things on the outer section. That made things super fun to cut and flare the lines with the limited space in the tunnel space... I ended up "clearancing" my flaring tool with my angle grinder so now it is a custom tool. Something tells me I won't get my tool deposit back from o'reilly's anymore if I were to try and take it back.
Installing the jet pump proved to be a massive pain, the gasket on the front of the pump REALLY didn't want to slide nicely into the shoe, I ended up using some RTV to glue the gasket to the pump, then add a slight lead in chamfer to the gasket. I also added a slight lead in to the shoe which was a tricky thing to do since it was already glued to the hull... not too bright of a move on my part. There is almost no room to install the pump hardware once the cooling lines are installed. I found out after installing the pump that I had cut the cooling/bilge lines longer than I should have so fitting that hose is going to be a real pain but it should be possible without pulling the pump. Learn from my mistakes on this one...
To stay busy, I started working on throwing stuff together again. I got my coil plug leads sleeved and terminated with self-extinguishing wire sleeving from wirecare and new MSD plug ends from Jegs. Hopefully I did the plug leads right, this was my first time doing them but it seemed relatively straightforward.
That stuff done, I checked over the motor and found out I had the wrong starter bendix (I had swapped it with a kawi 4 stroke one which spins the opposite direction) installed so I got to take the flywheel back off and replace it with the OG that came with the motor. The cold fusion flywheel lock came in handy so I am glad I kept it.
Crisis averted, I started fitting the controls and upper pole vent/passthrough. The stock tube was drilled out and removed and I had originally planned on using some kanaflex but the specific version that I bought (a year or so ago...) was too stiff and I didn't like how it popped when the pole went from fully down to slightly up. I ran to holmes depot today and picked up some 1-7/8" ridgid shop-vac hose and set to work making that make sense. I ended up chopping the "threaded" section of the coupler off, sanding the OD down to fit inside a 1.5" long section of 2" ID silicone connector then smushing that into the hole I cut in the pole mount. The vacuum hose itself is about 1.5 feet long and is free fitting inside the 2" SCH 40 pvc pipe I replaced the stock tube with. To install the pvc pipe I had to add a clearance recess into the lower section of the pole and "persuade" the tube in. I then took a 2" pvc coupler and coped it at an angle to match the angle of the inner pole structure to give the new tube something I could attach it to the pole with.
Once I was happy with that, I grabbed one of the many kawi runabout start/stop switches and spliced an extra 1.5 feet of wire in the middle then sleeved it with braided shielding. The kill switch wiring, 750 throttle cable, and steering cable were then run down the tube and the pole was installed along with one of the wax racing pole locks. I have a 2000 seadoo XP choke cable on the way to wrap up the controls side of things.
Remaining Items:
cooling line install
fuel line install
stinger outlet install
wiring
bilge pump
battery cables
reinstall vin plate (removed for painting and because it fell off...)
install other side graphics
install rego numbers
throttle/choke cable mounts
cut/seal exhaust tube
fab/install opposite side "exhaust" blockoff plate
Sean
2" Sch 40 24" long tube
Tube Clearance and Hose Spec
Installed Stickout
Coped Locking/Locating Flange
Installed Passthrough
Vacuum Hose "threaded section"
Hose Clearance and Install
Pole Lock from Wax Racing
Bolted in and aligned and sleeved coil installed. I did have to clearance the aluminum bedplate because the stinger coupler for the exhaust is really big.
Room for activities? Ignore the non-stuck hood seal...
Purdy.
Last edited:
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Wiring is done! "Modern kawi spec" with oe on/off switch, all oe style sumitomo sealed connectors, and "open concept" mounting. All the components are potted and fully sealed so should hold up to the hull environment. Fingers crossed, this will hold up as well the 4 strokes do.
I also fabbed up a throttle and choke cable mount and installed a 98-2000 seadoo xp choke cable to go with the 750 sxi throttle cable. I am currently waiting on the umi throttle cable adapter before I can get that wrapped up.
Wax racing bilge switch mount with blowsion rotary switch, and rule 500 auto bilge installed to keep the water out.
Side note: wiring is really hard to take pictures of, especially when it is fully installed...
Remaining items:
Seal driveshaft fitting
Install bilge pump mount on hull
Trim and glue exhaust tube in place
Install fuel tank straps
Install battery straps
Trim choke cable
Fab upper choke cable mount
Install fuel tank and fuel lines
Install exhaust hose clamps and bead roll tubes
Weld exhaust stinger for 2" pipe
Glue exhaust tube in
Seal sponson mount access hole
Goal is to be water ready in 2 weeks.
Sean
I also fabbed up a throttle and choke cable mount and installed a 98-2000 seadoo xp choke cable to go with the 750 sxi throttle cable. I am currently waiting on the umi throttle cable adapter before I can get that wrapped up.
Wax racing bilge switch mount with blowsion rotary switch, and rule 500 auto bilge installed to keep the water out.
Side note: wiring is really hard to take pictures of, especially when it is fully installed...
Remaining items:
Seal driveshaft fitting
Install bilge pump mount on hull
Trim and glue exhaust tube in place
Install fuel tank straps
Install battery straps
Trim choke cable
Fab upper choke cable mount
Install fuel tank and fuel lines
Install exhaust hose clamps and bead roll tubes
Weld exhaust stinger for 2" pipe
Glue exhaust tube in
Seal sponson mount access hole
Goal is to be water ready in 2 weeks.
Sean
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Soon
Sean
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Welp, I went out on sunday to try and give this puppy a go and was greeted with this.
I am looking at these tanks as an option but am open to other suggestions. It looks like I could use 12"L x 12"W x~15+"H but that is rough numbers based on the tank not actual clearance to the hood the 12x12 are probably hard maximums.
www.jegs.com
www.jegs.com
Sean
I am looking at these tanks as an option but am open to other suggestions. It looks like I could use 12"L x 12"W x~15+"H but that is rough numbers based on the tank not actual clearance to the hood the 12x12 are probably hard maximums.
JEGS 15310: 5-Gallon Fuel Cell with -8 AN Male Fuel Pickup Fittings [12 in. L x 12 in. W x 8 in. H] - JEGS High Performance
5-Gallon Fuel Cell
www.jegs.com
JAZ Products 250-004-NF5: Drag Race Fuel Cell 4-Gallon Vertical Natural without Foam - JEGS High Performance
Buy JAZ Products 250-004-NF5 at JEGS: JAZ Products Drag Race Fuel Cell 4-Gallon Vertical Natural without Foam. Guaranteed lowest price!
www.jegs.com
Sean
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smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
I received my H2O Designs 3 gallon Jazz tank in from Fast Elements today. It fits really well even using the stock straps. I need to replace my fuel lines that are now slightly too short and put a layer of turf on the bottom of the tank but it looks like the fuel fiasco has been fixed now.
On the other hand, I blew up the rear diff on my truck while on the boat ramp during the last outing when I found out the tank was cracked, then got the rona' over the weekend so testing is going to be on hold for at least a week plus ~500 miles of light driving to break in the new gears on my tow rig... it is always something.
Sean
Hey there little worm gear, what are you doing sticking out?
Truetrac, more like true crack... amIright?
On the other hand, I blew up the rear diff on my truck while on the boat ramp during the last outing when I found out the tank was cracked, then got the rona' over the weekend so testing is going to be on hold for at least a week plus ~500 miles of light driving to break in the new gears on my tow rig... it is always something.
Sean
Hey there little worm gear, what are you doing sticking out?
Truetrac, more like true crack... amIright?
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
I was thinking $200 for gears and another $200 for install kit, instead I had to pay $750 for gears, lsd, and install kit plus $250 for c clip eliminators, and another $300ish to cut the axles for it (why not, I am in there already right?). Plus fluids and setup bearings and all the other nickle and dime crap on top of that.
Apparently the pre 2010 truetracs were cast housings and semi notorious for the bolts going loose on the lsd itself and taking out the diff housing. Mine did the honorable thing and took itself out.
I had to kick it into 4wd, lock the hubs, and park while on the boat ramp. Then get out and remove the driveshaft from the carrier and rear axle while laying in the water before getting back in and getting the truck out of the way. I then limped it home ~40 miles ad 20mph while the diff was turning big chunks into smaller chunks.
It was a super fun day, on the plus side, the 07 12f I rebuilt after it popped 2 cylinders didn't blow up which I was worried about so I had that going for me...
Sean
l was driving my sons 05 subie legacy gt yesterday and the shifter just quit going into a gear.Then when you thought it was in 1st,it would be in another gear.Messed with gently trying to get it into gear and it finally got back in sync.
We replaced a shifter linkage but it still does it every so often.
We replaced a shifter linkage but it still does it every so often.
smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Intermittent stuff like that is incredibly frustrating. It almost sounds like on of the shift forks is slipping internally.
Sean
IceRocket1286
Site Supporter
- Location
- Metro Detroit
Well I am glad I found this thread as I am embarking on a 550 winter project adventure over here. I haven't laughed like this in a while, thanks for the entertainment and information! This build is awesome! I have been thinking the exact same thing regarding the ebox, most components on the new skis are mounted externally and I don't see why this wouldn't work on other setups. Very clean, I like it.
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smokeysevin
one man with a couch
- Location
- Houston
Glad you liked it, If you run into anything odd in the swap process please feel free to reply or reach out!
The electronics are holding up well (mostly to neglect and humidity but it still counts). I did have an odd issue with the throttle mildly electrocuting me but that was just because I nicked the 12v+ to the starter motor when I was removing the indexing nub on the kill switch mount. Some liquid electrical tape nipped that in the bud. I felt like an idiot on that one but it was way better than what it could have been.
Sean
IceRocket1286
Site Supporter
- Location
- Metro Detroit
It happens. Back in the day I was mid-race on my limited sxr. I was pretty sure I was getting zapped when I grabbed the throttle and I was right. After the race I popped the hood and found my water injection module was giving my hand the tingles. It was capable of running 2 solenoids but I was only running one. The extra loom of wire was zip tied up and the ends sealed but the zip tie broke and the extra wires got pinched and we’re hitting the stainless plate that the ebox mounts to. They may have even been pinched in there, I forget. Took care of that issue. That was one hell of an interesting race.
- Location
- Reno,NV
great build !! thx for sharing