Super Jet RN SJ -2" Fast Elements, DASA, Skat Mag, Cold Fusion Build up

[Proformance1]

Brian check all your connections, the OEM yamaha and aftermarket plugs are slightly different diameter. I kinda of test fit all of them and if they are loose I bend them slightly with my hand then reinsert and possibly electric tape for Back Flip grip!

 

[Proformance1]

Wish I knew, its all back together now so I wont know untill I take it back apart and check or wait until the new one is here. Can anyone tell by looking?

I should mention it ran fine for the first few tanks of gas.

 

[Matt_E]

With as much money as you've already spent, I'd get another stator to try out.

 

[Proformance1]

New one will be here between the 8th and 14th. I have another but its in my only ski that I can still ride right now so I dont want to tear it down.

 

[Matt_E]

I think that's where the problem will end up being.

 

[Proformance1]

At this point I hope you are correct. After that Im almost out of options. It is the one thing that I took for granted with this build, and that sounds bad just saying that now and not second guessing myself way before this.

 

[Marcgraham27]

That is a 62t stator, the visual difference is the wires that hook to the coils on the stator plate are attached from the top on a 62t as where on a 61x they are attached from the bottom. did you try testing the resistance in the stator? The Brown wire with the white strip to the ground should be 500 Ohms and the White wire with the red strip to the ground should be 15 Ohms

 

[Proformance1]

Thanks, Pat also commented that the 62T has the male plug end on the red/white wire, which this does have so pretty confident it is a 62T now.
checked the red/white wire to ground 14-15 Ohms, earlier on page 4 of posts

From page 4:
Brown/white wire charge coil at 505 Ohms, Pulser at 14-15 my meter doesnt do decimals but it was switching between the two so i'm assuming 14.9 ish Its about 45 deg F outside so the lower readings do not surprise me.

 

[Marcgraham27]

Hrm.. Hopefully you can get it figured out soon man

 

[Proformance1]

I wanted to ride it this weekend as it is supposed to be 70 here but i think its going to have to sit this one out. My black ski will be happy to go for a ride! it will be a while before the stator is in. Thanks again for the help

 

[Proformance1]

Allright some more fun in the shop today. I love wrenching and not riding and spending tons of cash on parts to trial and error stuff! I guess I can consider this my two stroke education, considering im a 4 stroke guy. I have a bunch of videos im uploading now, but they are off an i phone.

I have consulted a few more experts in this industry and most have said the same things so far. Thanks to all the great shops out there for helping out! John at JSS threw out one more idea I havent heard from other people. He said to check the fuel pump side of the carbs for damage, after the original kickback, it wasnt a backfire I learned, now I have backfire issues. Dead cell created a kickback. Thanks to Chris at ATP for clearing up the difference for me. Most have said Pulse coil is bad but it checks fine, so I'm guessing it is getting bad when warm. Every time I now get a backfire its warm. The Kickback happened cold and that is why I was having the confusion on my part.

Started the day with doing a TDC (Top Dead Center) check on the front and rear cylinder and putting the marks on my PTO coupler, supplied by Cold Fusion. Thanks for a great product that is easy to add marks to. Set your dial indicator in the spark plug hole and then turn motor clockwise untill it reaches the end of its travel and starts going the opposite direction. Then reset gauge to 0 at that spot and double check to confirm. Once at TDC i added an aluminum piece to use as my needle over the marks on the coupler. Did the same for the rear cylinder also. I used tape around the coupler to check to make sure the crank was phased correctly and that the two TDC's were 180 degrees apart. There was a theory that the kickback could have thrown the crank out of phase. I removed the tape and checked the two marks, really three as the first mark ends up on the overlapped part, they are exactly the same distance apart, confirming the crank is phased correctly. Juiced up the timing light and installed it on both front and rear cylinders to check timing. With the MSD i was at approx 24 deg timing at 2800 rpm. That is close to what it should be from the MSD curves. The confusion on my part now is that it was firing 24 deg after TDC. I figured it should be before TDC? Can anyone confirm that mine is incorrect and if so why? Hopefully you will be able to see it in the video.
After all the tests the motor was warmed up and now it backfired on the next start up attempt. It hadnt up to this point. I think this is pushing me to believe what I have suspected for a week now, and everyone esle also, but I dont have another 62T stator to change out.

Here are some pitcures and videos of my day of fun!



Front Cylinder timing check and details of what im doing

[video=vimeo;31655291]http://vimeo.com/31655291[/video]

Rear cylinder timing check

[video=vimeo;31655348]http://vimeo.com/31655348[/video]

video of timing check with motor running

[video=vimeo;31655404]http://vimeo.com/31655404[/video]

Video of DASA 850PV with MSD Enhancer warmed up backfiring on start

[video=vimeo;31655449]http://vimeo.com/31655449[/video]

Thanks again for all the feedback from all of you who have commented and PMed me etc. Thanks to all that have answered my emails etc.

 

[Matt_E]

How did you determine it's firing 24 ATDC?
(I really doubt it, the engine would not sound nearly "normal".

 

[Proformance1]

still waiting for the video to upload Matt. I could be incorrect but if motor runs clockwise, viewing from rear, or from tray looking at nose, its firing after my zero mark, or to the left of the zero mark viewed from the tray looking at nose of ski. Does that make sence?

I circled in red where its firing at 2800 RPM, you have to zoom in to see it

 

[Proformance1]

I waited about an hr for the motor to cool down before shooting these shots, this should be a little clearer as i used a camera not a phone. Its after TDC correct? YOu can see if you watch closely I even put and A over the timing to show after, unless i'm confused. Which would not surprise me.

[video=vimeo;31657243]http://vimeo.com/31657243[/video]
[video=vimeo;31657268]http://vimeo.com/31657268[/video]

 

[Proformance1]

Just spoke with Pat and realized, when I was thinking the motor was rotating clockwise from the tray its actually going counter clockwise. In the tray looking at the nose of the ski. So it is firing about 24 degrees before TDC. I confirmed it by looking at the prop. I always thought it went the opposite way for some reason.

 

[Proformance1]

And finally for the day I checked cranking initial timing, its hard to see here but you get the idea, its around 14-18 degrees BTDC

[video=vimeo;31661166]http://vimeo.com/31661166[/video]

 

[Matt_E]

I think you are getting to be so frustrated that you are making this harder than it needs to be. Get another stator and try that before spending more hours in the garage verifying timing.
You've tried it with three CDI's already.

 

[Proformance1]

I agree but "experts" have told me the stator is fine, after seeing my readings. Just trying to make sure all is set before it shows up thursday. Im done till then. I hate just swapping parts and hoping for the best. I have learned a ton this week, but like you say I am very frustrated.

 

[Proformance1]

I just remembered, I do still need to verify ATP cranking timing also. But I could wait till the new stator is in to do that

 

[Proformance1]

Swapped out the stator for a new OEM last night and even installed an new key to be on the safe side. Hopefully Ill be able to try it later today after I finish putting the ski back together.