Little background: Got this ski at the end of summer in 2012,and that started my addiction! My neighbor pretty much gave it to me because he knew I'd have fun with it. 300$ for a 1995 sn 701 with a limited b pipe, OP nozzle, & umi steering. I rode it like that for a month, and then it was time to tear it apart in the winter. I installed oldstyle toby holds, and padding and turf. Installed a 9/15 hooker mid season, and got a good amount of hours in. Was attempting to get inverted finally, but my season came to a sudden early stop late August..
A rod bearing went out, and destroyed that piston skirt.
that thing got pretty darn hot. The crankcase was enough to easily burn you.
After 20 years, it was due for a rebuild anyways!
Onto the build:
In terms of the engine setup:
SBT crank, oem gaskets and crank seals, along with oem wrist pins, wrist pin bearings, circlips, oem pistons and rings. Cylinders will be bored to 81.5 by powerhouse performance. I will be running dual cooling with cold fusion adjustable pissers, and an ada girdled head with most likely 35cc domes.
I'll also be rebuilding my carb from the ground up with genuine mikuni parts.
Hull & handling:
RN pole -2 as of now, hazard bracket.
Blowsion steering system with fatbar clamp.
50mm riser bars
ODI vans lock on grips
Sato engineering finger throttle
Dual bilge pumps
and eventually tom21 bolt on sponsons
I want to thank @JetManiac @tom21 @TOBY and zack at PHP for all the help and advice. JetManiac has went over the top to help me, and always has what I need!
Reinforced hull front to back, Michigan surf and boat wake, and roll worthy. Reinforced tray, tom21 footholds with a custom comfy locked in pad & turf job.
Reinforced hood with hood mod
Eps foam with drain plugs, no two part at all. Thru hull tubes and inserts sealed and installed with West systems gflex 655,along with 5200 over the top. Sealing up a hull perfectly is not an easy job!
I apologize ahead of time, I don't have a ton of pictures of the basic steps. I will be as detailed as I can, and make it a helpful thread!
First things first, here's my turfed tray with toby footholds. It turned out pretty well for my first turf job, but I couldn't stay in my holds due to my pad job, and the holds were kinda small.
those are after last season, and I added some turf to tighten em up.
For removing turf and padding:a multi tool with a scraper blade is absolutely amazing! It helps a lot. But removing the excess turf and pad leftover absolutely sucks.
I don't have any pics of the turf removed.
Now it was time to cut open the tray and check out the foam! I was impatient, so I messed up the pump tunnel prying up on the plexus, but oh well. It's only glass! And of course, my foam was wet and stinky!
Then it was time to cut the footholds out. I used the multitool for most of the cutting. Believe it or not, the US composites foam basically turned into a glue and made it very hard to pry the footholds out. I cracked the gunwale a little bit because of that, so that was frustrating.
Those are the old footholds out. After the holds and tray was out, it was time to start defoaming. That really really sucked. I used a large screwdriver for the majority of pieces, and a wire brush on a drill for all the hard to reach places. Defoaming is one thing, but if you plan on reinforcing and doing a bunch of work under the tray, it sucks cleaning all the foam off of everything to get it prepped. I used 60 grit sand paper to get the foam residue off of the gunwales and other spots that needed to be perfectly prepped. I spent quite a few hours prepping under the tray, and quite a few hours defoaming..
After that, it was time to fill the bond line with thickened epoxy, and lay some glass. When wetting out thicker cloths, I recommend wetting it out on a piece of cardboard or something similar. It makes it much easier!! Then just put a coat of resin on the hull, and lay it in. I had to fold it in half to get it in since I didn't cut my gunwales open a ton. When I filled the bondline, I made a ramp with epoxy so the glass wouldn't have to make a drastic bend(excellent advice from tom21). 1208 biax doesn't go over steep angles too well, especially when the resin is around 50 degrees! After laying glass, I move it into a room that's about 70 degrees tho.
Here's the bond line filled:
Glass laid:
After all that was laid, it was time to prep the outside of the tray and the inside of the tray some more, and get ready to install some thru hull tubes, and fix the pump area I messed up.
holes cleaned and drilled out.
Taped cardboard underneath, filled with some thickened epoxy, and laid a few pieces of glass. All good!
the lines you see barely went into the glass, so it's not anything to worry about.
I'll lay a piece of glass underneath for good measure too.
Note to self: don't rush, and plan your cuts accordingly. Then you won't have mistakes like that!
Next was some more prep work! I spend so much time with prep.
Still tons of prep work to do..
Finally time to start installing tubes, plugs, and sealing inserts! To cover up the bolt holes, I stuck a piece of gorilla tape over every one, used a razer blade to cut around the bolt hole so it was as small as possible, then sprayed zep in the holes just for safety measures. First I installed all the trim and cooling tube with West systems gflex. A little side note. To bend the pvc thru the hull so it doesn't go at such a sharp angle, use a heat gun! It bends easily and works great.
Then, I put gflex on all of the inserts and thru hull tubes, drain plugs, and exhaust flange. For the inserts, I put a piece of glass over all of them since I had some excess gflex. I put some black dye in that batch of epoxy.
After that cured, I ground the excess glass off the inserts, and trimmed the glass that was left on the other inserts. This tool, is so useful!
Now after this, I went over everything with 5200,along with where the exhaust tube meets the bulkhead. (yamaha uses plexus on the exhaust flange, and a sealant at the bulkhead, so I did similar)
Finally, finally, it was time to cut and fit all of the foam.. That took a few hours. I didn't fill it perfectly, but almost all of the tray and gunwales is filled. There's room on the bottom in case water were to get in, so it'll go through the drain plugs. I made sure I cut some pieces big so I could jam them in to keep everything tight. This is where I stand now, and after some more prep, it'll be time to get the tray and footholds in
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
A rod bearing went out, and destroyed that piston skirt.
After 20 years, it was due for a rebuild anyways!
Onto the build:
In terms of the engine setup:
SBT crank, oem gaskets and crank seals, along with oem wrist pins, wrist pin bearings, circlips, oem pistons and rings. Cylinders will be bored to 81.5 by powerhouse performance. I will be running dual cooling with cold fusion adjustable pissers, and an ada girdled head with most likely 35cc domes.
I'll also be rebuilding my carb from the ground up with genuine mikuni parts.
Hull & handling:
RN pole -2 as of now, hazard bracket.
Blowsion steering system with fatbar clamp.
50mm riser bars
ODI vans lock on grips
Sato engineering finger throttle
Dual bilge pumps
and eventually tom21 bolt on sponsons
I want to thank @JetManiac @tom21 @TOBY and zack at PHP for all the help and advice. JetManiac has went over the top to help me, and always has what I need!
Reinforced hull front to back, Michigan surf and boat wake, and roll worthy. Reinforced tray, tom21 footholds with a custom comfy locked in pad & turf job.
Reinforced hood with hood mod
Eps foam with drain plugs, no two part at all. Thru hull tubes and inserts sealed and installed with West systems gflex 655,along with 5200 over the top. Sealing up a hull perfectly is not an easy job!
I apologize ahead of time, I don't have a ton of pictures of the basic steps. I will be as detailed as I can, and make it a helpful thread!
First things first, here's my turfed tray with toby footholds. It turned out pretty well for my first turf job, but I couldn't stay in my holds due to my pad job, and the holds were kinda small.
For removing turf and padding:a multi tool with a scraper blade is absolutely amazing! It helps a lot. But removing the excess turf and pad leftover absolutely sucks.
I don't have any pics of the turf removed.
Now it was time to cut open the tray and check out the foam! I was impatient, so I messed up the pump tunnel prying up on the plexus, but oh well. It's only glass! And of course, my foam was wet and stinky!
Then it was time to cut the footholds out. I used the multitool for most of the cutting. Believe it or not, the US composites foam basically turned into a glue and made it very hard to pry the footholds out. I cracked the gunwale a little bit because of that, so that was frustrating.
Those are the old footholds out. After the holds and tray was out, it was time to start defoaming. That really really sucked. I used a large screwdriver for the majority of pieces, and a wire brush on a drill for all the hard to reach places. Defoaming is one thing, but if you plan on reinforcing and doing a bunch of work under the tray, it sucks cleaning all the foam off of everything to get it prepped. I used 60 grit sand paper to get the foam residue off of the gunwales and other spots that needed to be perfectly prepped. I spent quite a few hours prepping under the tray, and quite a few hours defoaming..
After that, it was time to fill the bond line with thickened epoxy, and lay some glass. When wetting out thicker cloths, I recommend wetting it out on a piece of cardboard or something similar. It makes it much easier!! Then just put a coat of resin on the hull, and lay it in. I had to fold it in half to get it in since I didn't cut my gunwales open a ton. When I filled the bondline, I made a ramp with epoxy so the glass wouldn't have to make a drastic bend(excellent advice from tom21). 1208 biax doesn't go over steep angles too well, especially when the resin is around 50 degrees! After laying glass, I move it into a room that's about 70 degrees tho.
Here's the bond line filled:
Glass laid:
After all that was laid, it was time to prep the outside of the tray and the inside of the tray some more, and get ready to install some thru hull tubes, and fix the pump area I messed up.
Taped cardboard underneath, filled with some thickened epoxy, and laid a few pieces of glass. All good!
I'll lay a piece of glass underneath for good measure too.
Note to self: don't rush, and plan your cuts accordingly. Then you won't have mistakes like that!
Next was some more prep work! I spend so much time with prep.
Still tons of prep work to do..
Finally time to start installing tubes, plugs, and sealing inserts! To cover up the bolt holes, I stuck a piece of gorilla tape over every one, used a razer blade to cut around the bolt hole so it was as small as possible, then sprayed zep in the holes just for safety measures. First I installed all the trim and cooling tube with West systems gflex. A little side note. To bend the pvc thru the hull so it doesn't go at such a sharp angle, use a heat gun! It bends easily and works great.
Then, I put gflex on all of the inserts and thru hull tubes, drain plugs, and exhaust flange. For the inserts, I put a piece of glass over all of them since I had some excess gflex. I put some black dye in that batch of epoxy.
After that cured, I ground the excess glass off the inserts, and trimmed the glass that was left on the other inserts. This tool, is so useful!
Now after this, I went over everything with 5200,along with where the exhaust tube meets the bulkhead. (yamaha uses plexus on the exhaust flange, and a sealant at the bulkhead, so I did similar)
Finally, finally, it was time to cut and fit all of the foam.. That took a few hours. I didn't fill it perfectly, but almost all of the tray and gunwales is filled. There's room on the bottom in case water were to get in, so it'll go through the drain plugs. I made sure I cut some pieces big so I could jam them in to keep everything tight. This is where I stand now, and after some more prep, it'll be time to get the tray and footholds in
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk