Super Jet Roseand's simple SN build. Reinforcing, foam, engine rebuild, & all the good stuff.
- Thread starter Roseand
- Start date
If you think it rides "fine" now, you're going to be amazed when you get tubbies.
Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
How was the water test di46??
Alright I guess. I've got my mixture screws turned past like 2 turns and now it seems to run pretty darn good, but I don't like how far I have to open them. It was doing some funny things the first couple test rides.. With two turns out on both right when I launched it, I was only going up to like half throttle ish and it had perfect brap, and then when on plane going up to. Like 2\3 3\4 throttle it had great power too and this was like all within two minutes, then it just died. I could get it running for a couple seconds with choke but then it'd die. Took it to the pier, adjusted some things, rode it with hood off and it would do similar but also a little longer but just die right out.. It wasn't getting enough fuel. So then my dad came out and we raised the idle, then adjusted the low speed out until it had good off idle power, and then opened up the high speed screw up to 2.5 turns. I'm not exactly sure what the low speed ended up at. But it was wierd because after this, it ran really good. It's like with 2 turns open it didn't have enough fuel to even get going.. Somethings gotta be wrong IMO. Then we richened it out to like 3 turns on the high and I rode around for a bit and it was pretty good, but you could tell it was boggy after you landed a jump and had the nose up and you were getting back on plane. It ended up getting worse until it wouldn't go at all... I pulled the hood and the cooling line to the stinger came off so it was an exhaust leak that was giving me quite the bog.. So Idk if it was that giving me the bog and the carb at the same time.. Cuz now at idle with the hood off it accelerated really good, but with the high speed turned out to 3ish turns.. It runs good but I don't like how far out the screws are and I'm using the recommended b pipe jets and spring.
Onto how my cooling hose came off.. And details about my cooling. My stinger hose got hot enough to soften the hose for it to fall right off. Here's how I'm running my cooling, and zack at php told me to run it exactly like this.
Two lines into mani, tee both outlets on the head. Rear cylinder, angled part of tee to bottom of midpipe, then straight part of the tee to pisser. Front cylinder, angled part of tee to the stinger with a restrictor(drilled out seat) and then a flow control valve and straight part of the tee to pisser. Then a hose from the top of the mid pipe to a pisser.
My cylinders get cooled perfectly and have equal constant flow and a good temp. The pisser off of top of the mid pipe doesn't flow as much as they do at idle, but when you get on the throttle more, it starts to flow decent. Is that how it's supposed to be? And it's super hot too compared to the cylinder pissers. It like flows but only when you get on the throttle..
I wouldn't have noticed this before because I wasn't riding it for an extended period of time. After like 15 minutes or so of riding around it finally got hot enough to melt the turf on the chamber, hood tubes and then the cooling hose. Luckily the high temp couplers seem fine. Since the stinger was open exhaust was leaking so it ran fine without the hood, but when I gave it some gas, no water came out of that line and I had the fcv opened up almost all the way just to play it safe.. And I couldn't see really any water making it to there. It's like all the flow is going to the straight part of the pisser and none to the angled part. I don't know why my pipe is running so hot because I don't believe that is what cools it.. The line going into the bottom of the mid pipe is what should cool it right? But it doesn't seem to be. Both the lines coming off of the tees don't seem to be getting much pressure then.. And I'm doing just what zack told me to do..
Confusing...
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Onto how my cooling hose came off.. And details about my cooling. My stinger hose got hot enough to soften the hose for it to fall right off. Here's how I'm running my cooling, and zack at php told me to run it exactly like this.
Two lines into mani, tee both outlets on the head. Rear cylinder, angled part of tee to bottom of midpipe, then straight part of the tee to pisser. Front cylinder, angled part of tee to the stinger with a restrictor(drilled out seat) and then a flow control valve and straight part of the tee to pisser. Then a hose from the top of the mid pipe to a pisser.
My cylinders get cooled perfectly and have equal constant flow and a good temp. The pisser off of top of the mid pipe doesn't flow as much as they do at idle, but when you get on the throttle more, it starts to flow decent. Is that how it's supposed to be? And it's super hot too compared to the cylinder pissers. It like flows but only when you get on the throttle..
I wouldn't have noticed this before because I wasn't riding it for an extended period of time. After like 15 minutes or so of riding around it finally got hot enough to melt the turf on the chamber, hood tubes and then the cooling hose. Luckily the high temp couplers seem fine. Since the stinger was open exhaust was leaking so it ran fine without the hood, but when I gave it some gas, no water came out of that line and I had the fcv opened up almost all the way just to play it safe.. And I couldn't see really any water making it to there. It's like all the flow is going to the straight part of the pisser and none to the angled part. I don't know why my pipe is running so hot because I don't believe that is what cools it.. The line going into the bottom of the mid pipe is what should cool it right? But it doesn't seem to be. Both the lines coming off of the tees don't seem to be getting much pressure then.. And I'm doing just what zack told me to do..
Confusing...
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That cooling line routing is different, I've never heard of that. I think most common would be two lines into the exhaust manifold, rear cylinder to bottom of head pipe, top of head pipe to stinger with a tee to pisser, front cylinder to pisser. I think?
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My carb confuses me though. It runs great but the screws are out far compared to the norm. The Maniac said to start at 2 turns and lean it out from there I believe?
Only things I can think of are the check valves not being perfectly flush and having a slight bend from install, and when I rebuilt the carb I used new everything, including new needle and seat and including a new arm that holes the needle, and I never bothered to measure the clearance with the new arm, and I'm pretty sure you're supposed to.
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Only things I can think of are the check valves not being perfectly flush and having a slight bend from install, and when I rebuilt the carb I used new everything, including new needle and seat and including a new arm that holes the needle, and I never bothered to measure the clearance with the new arm, and I'm pretty sure you're supposed to.
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- Location
- wisconsin
You need to put the stinger restrictor in after the jetworks valve...not before it. You have to much of a pressure drop with it before and the stinger is not getting enough water. Sounds like your chamber might be a little on the hot side as well. You need to keep adjusting the screw and checking chamber temps till it just sizzles water, not just set it and forget till it melts off hoses lol. Water routing setups that get the most power are a little touchy than the old "just run the rear head exit to the midpipe" setups, but when dialed correctly run a ton! Good luck Andy, you will get it.
How come the pisser coming out of the midpipe doesn't have flow like my cylinder pissers zack? That water is super hot. And yeah that restrictor after the fcv makes sense now. I have my bottom screw open like between a half, my mid screw open a little bit, and my top screw open like a turn or maybe more just to play it safe cuz I noticed my pipe being a little hot before hand. So in theory my head pipe should be cold.
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I thought factory pipes jetting specs were supposed to be rich so I'm kinda confused that way, but afterrichening it out quite a bit and riding it I had the exhaust leak at the same time so it was hard to tell. I had a severe bog for the last few minutes of the ride but it was caused by the exhaust leak..
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- Location
- wisconsin
the screw settings have about zero to do with the temp of the midpipe... they control the chamber. It is jacketed and the water running through it is what cools it. you have to balance your pressures until you achieve the temp on each component you want. I noticed in the pictures you sent the straight sections coming out of the T's running over board are very short. There is going to be very little back pressure to the T portion so you may need to slightly restrict the exits overboard. You can do this very easily with a hose clamp on the hose to crush it. then you can actually tune the exit pressure. What you are trying to achieve is the most amount of water to the engine to keep it cool, less to your midpipe so it runs with some temp in it, the chamber hotter yet, and enough water pressure left over from the front cylinder to shoot in the stinger and keep the water box and hoses cool under WOT conditions.
Makes sense! I have those sections short so I can run my pissers towards the rear though. I have cold fusion adjustable pissers so I can just restrict them very easily and try that out.. Any thoughts on my carb though?
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I had an exhaust coupler leaking on my old blaster and I was maxing out the screws and going up in jets trying to fix it because it was running so lean until I found the coupler leak. Im just thinking you should get your cooling system sorted out then give it another go and see where your at, one thing at a time?
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