SB Products Billet SuperJet engine case

[wsuwrhr]

the inside can be masked, the oil will prevent corrosion, its the outside than needs to be delt with.

Agreed

 

[restosud]

couldn't you finish bore after anodizing.i don't know how you are set up for that.ieossible damage to finish during line bore?
i think anodizing is needed as the cases unlike the cylinder often get and stay wet even after operation as some water remains in hull unlike the cylinder which is high and dry.
base o ring could be glued and sealed by engine builder easily instead of using an expensive molded item.
really nice product you have there.love to see transfer area.

 

[2lick]

that right there is what wet dreams are made of.

Haha! These where posted 3am my time and I was up to 6am doing crap..... I was thinking some guys are gonna be surprised when they sign on the x tomorrow!

I was already planning on making a cover so we could build a complete billet engine, something about that is just trick to me. Billet mount feet are next.

Brian

I have broken too many bed plates!!! I have cracked them down the middle and my coupler cover tabs have broke...... I finally solved that by welding on blocks of aluminum.....

Full billet bed plates would be great!

Anodizing is done for a lot price, meaning to anodize a single color for one part is $50., for ten parts it is $50., for 30 parts is it still......$50. Kinda of a racket if you ask me, but it is what it is.

Brian

Wow! I didn't know that. I'm sure some one buying a whole motor wouldn't mind ponying up 50 bux or so to have all there billet andonized.... and it seems now there is going to be a lot of billet under the hood (Entire Short block!!!). Or If I was spending 7k on a short block I'd spend 100 too get protection on it and go 2tone..... Orange between Black:Banane09:

Done then, I will put an oring for the mag cover seal

Or if you are going to make the mag covers, I would choose to have the grove in that. Then you can leave the meat in the cases (it looks like it would be tight) and with the groove in the mag cover your market is now everyone with Superjet Blaster cases, etc.

It would also be easier to put oring in the grove on a piece that you can have in your hand out side of the boat....

I'm not sure of price, I dont have the understanding to put one on it. I think I would take one of the first mag covers!!!

The cranks will come from Crankworks, we deal with them exclusively, their quality has never been a problem and Phil takes care of us if we do. I paid a HEFTY pricetag for the intital crank, so I think the crank will come from SB Products as well. I would hate to think that I paid all of the R&D to develop that crank so he can sell it to everyone.

BTW, the crank will be somewhere around $1300. slightly more than a 12MM stroker.

Brian

Indeed, I hope you get credit and the kickback on that investment.

I think all up to 10mm are listed at 1370, but I could be wrong. if the price stays around 1400 for a 16,18,20 that would be ridiculously awesome!!!!

It also needs a bushing for the stator.

Brian

Courtesy of the X members! Not sure of credibility of it but I have one on order for my cover....

$1.49each

McMaster.com
Bushing for Bendix, bronze, presses into case and fw cover: 6658K16



Thanks!

 

[2lick]

I am interested in how the case girdle kit is set up.... are all of them... not sure how that would work...

 

[QJS]

O-rings around the intake and cylinder. Interesting idea. The intake would be no big deal.

Initially, what about between the cylinders? Around the outside would be easy, but the space between the cylinders might be too small for two separate o-rings. I would have to have a custom one peice o-ring made for that.

One problem is with annodizing(after the fact) is the main bore will need to be held oversize to do it correctly, anno will make the bores slightly smaller so this has to be taken into account. Other than the main bore, nothing else is real critical as far as that goes, but that would be a big deal as the cases would be "tight" around the crank. In my opinion, if the custumer wants to annodize them, they need to be done before they are shipped.

I machined ours slightly undersize then polished and clear anodized then bored it to size with a boring bar as you use to bore the sleeves anyway .
Just for referance (you may know this already) anodize grows half inwards and half outwards so if you put on 20 microns of anodize (typical if being dyed) the part will be 10 microns out of tolerance.
Chris.

 

[waxhead]

I like the idea of the groove in the cases for people that dont run oem front covers
but i guess you will sell more front covers if you put it in the front cover

Able used to anodize there cylinders black , being black hard anodizing they never corroded and always looked good
That would be my choice
Please dont oring the case/ cylinder surface
When ever i build and engine i get into there with the grinder and if i break through a groove i will end up having to jbweld up

Its looking good i cant wait to get my hands on a set of cases

 

[wsuwrhr]

I am interested in how the case girdle kit is set up.... are all of them... not sure how that would work...

The girdle is part of the case. No kit.

There are rib sections that run the entire length of the bottom of the case.

Brian

 

[waxhead]

these rib sections can you make them flow water through and put an o-ring on it so we can use it as a case cooler

 

[wsuwrhr]

these rib sections can you make them flow water through and put an o-ring on it so we can use it as a case cooler

It may be something that can be done. The rib sections are a machined part of the case, not a bolt on deal.

Brian

 

[waxhead]

Ok i thought the bottom plate on the girdle would be a solid plate
and the ribs would be in the cases

Hvae you lightned up the girdle plate with cutouts as well

can we see a picture of the bottom of the engine please

 

[wsuwrhr]

????

It is.

The ribs are machined into the cases, part of the case itself. I am trying to get down to 5 lbs heavier than the factory case. In it's current state it is 6 lbs heavier and plenty rigid.

I am sure you are aware that I have some concerns about posting too many pictures.

Brian

Ok i thought the bottom plate on the girdle would be a solid plate
and the ribs would be in the cases

Hvae you lightned up the girdle plate with cutouts as well

can we see a picture of the bottom of the engine please

 

[nightrider05]

For some reason I cant see the pictures...Is anyone else having issues? I would love to see these.

 

[waxhead]

????

It is.

The ribs are machined into the cases, part of the case itself. I am trying to get down to 5 lbs heavier than the factory case. In it's current state it is 6 lbs heavier and plenty rigid.

Brian

ok i may need to explain myself better
if the ribs are machined into the case
you built a girdle for the bottom of the crank case
is this a solid piece of alloy
if so there would be an air gap between the ribs even with the girdle plate on
could these be joined together and water pumped through them using the girdle plate to seal them off

 

[wsuwrhr]

Maybe the term I used is misleading. It isn't a girdle like you are describing. I machined ribs, or girders of you will, into the bottom of the case to make the case rigid along the crankshaft to resist twisting in any axis.

The case is two peices, a top half and a bottom half.

Sorry if I made this so confusing.

Brian

ok i may need to explain it better
if the ribs are machined into the case
you built a girdle for the bottom of the crank case
is this a solid piece of alloy
if so there would be an air gap between the ribs even with the girdle plate on
could these be joined together and water pumped through them using the girdle plate to seal them off

 

[wsuwrhr]

It would be entirely possible to cool the case by bolting on a plate to the bottom case and running water through it, or between the two parts.

Brian

 

[waxhead]

ahh ok thanks

I was looking at the pics up there and i could see a line and i thought that was a seperate plate under the bottom case but it must be a machining mark
Never mind
These things are so awesome i can see myself with a set of these

yeah bolting on a plate to the bottom would be easy

 

[wsuwrhr]

Yes the line is misleading for sure. These three cases are all protoypes, they aren't perfect examples of what the production parts will look like.

They do have cosmetic machining errors on them, like the toolmarks that you are talking about, that the production parts won't have.

Thanks for the compliments.

Brian

ahh ok thanks

I was looking at the pics up there and i could see a line and i thought that was a seperate plate under the bottom case but it must be a machining mark
Never mind
These things are so awesome i can see myself with a set of these

yeah bolting on a plate to the bottom would be easy

 

[restosud]

I like the idea of the groove in the cases for people that dont run oem front covers
but i guess you will sell more front covers if you put it in the front cover

Able used to anodize there cylinders black , being black hard anodizing they never corroded and always looked good
That would be my choice
Please dont oring the case/ cylinder surface
When ever i build and engine i get into there with the grinder and if i break through a groove i will end up having to jbweld up

Its looking good i cant wait to get my hands on a set of cases

why would you bugger up the groves on the cases,they'd be on the horizontal sealing surface.no mods done there usually and since the transfer ramps are already supersized as per his description there's no grinding needed in the area.
even if you wanted to run different thickness bases gaskets the oring wouldn't hurt anything and no more blown base gaskets as well.

 

[waxhead]

Depends on how far you go out with your cases

i like to bring them out so the transfers dont have to do a turn and they just flow straight up

This brings the transfer right around towards the boost port

I dont run base gaskets normally anyway i just use three bond
depending on the engine of course and the height of the cylinder your using

 

[Metal4130]

A while back there was a guy in Peoria illinois who made a few sets of billet cases. He might have been working with waterdawg customs. He sent me pictures of them but I no longer have them. Looking really sweet.