SN Superjet fix and improve build

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Thanks for that explanation. Something to get into here soon when its too cold to ride. I want to get some riding days in the next couple of weeks. It does fire right off when i give it a bit of fuel down the carb. I need to set up the primer. Just have not had time yet.
It’s been a while but I believe you can get away with using a shopping bag on the stock setup arrestor to choke your carbs if you’re tired of having to pop the little cap and pour fuel in.
 
It’s been a while but I believe you can get away with using a shopping bag on the stock setup arrestor to choke your carbs if you’re tired of having to pop the little cap and pour fuel in.
I will give that a try. its not too hard to just pop the elbow off and jam the fuel can hose into the carbs and dump a slight bit. I am planning on getting the primer put on today tho.
 
I would love to put hand holds on my hood. Seems that all the manufactured ones are not made anymore. I have searched and searched for diy ones or how to do it best and cannot find anything. Can i just cut holes in the hood where i think it would be best? Pretty curious on this.
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
I would love to put hand holds on my hood. Seems that all the manufactured ones are not made anymore. I have searched and searched for diy ones or how to do it best and cannot find anything. Can i just cut holes in the hood where i think it would be best? Pretty curious on this.
You can make them yourself.Shoot me a pm and l’ll try and help you
 
You can make them yourself.Shoot me a pm and l’ll try and help you
I have been going through the thread that DylanS attached and the other threads attached to that one and like the way that Mark44 did his. Just making a fiberglass bucket out of a cup then sealing the hood liner again. Not sure if this is the best way but seems decent and not that hard. This will be the last thing i do though. I really need to get the other stuff done first.

Handholds.PNG


I would like to get the tray defoam and pump shoe done first.

Couple more questions i thought up. One of the holes for my intake grate in the front is all bad. It had a broken bolt. I could not get it out so i ripped the insert out. If i defoam i was thinking i could fix it from the inside somehow. Would that be the best way or would it be better to buy a replacement insert like the ones watcon or blowsion sells and insert it from the bottom?

Doing the pump shoe and if i fix the insert from the bottom, i would guess it would be best to flip the ski upside down. Would this be best to do with the motor pulled? I dont think in the grand scheme of things the motor is too hard to pull. ( The drypipe was a huge pain in the A$$ by myself to get the motor and pipe in) but ill get a buddy to help.

I have been thinking about getting a new prop. Keep in mind i am at elevation 5200. The one that is on the ski now is an older skat and it says 4 7v on it. I looked it up and i think that means its a 14-17. Watcon has a couple used ones that are skat 10-18 one of them for 125 bucks. That is alot cheaper than 250 or what ever it seems the new ones are. I would think that would be really helpful for low end. Any thoughts?

Just rode last night after work for about an hour. It was 60 when i got out of the water and almost dark at 6. It is getting close to time to start this project. It is about time to start trying to buy the materials and parts to do this.
 
Location
dfw
The Skat 14-17 and 10-18 are almost identical. They work very well once the ski gets moving. The newer swirls and Concords prime a little faster and work better at low speeds. You may need to bend the trailing edge up if the ski doesnt respond quick enough. Boring the nozzle will make more low speed thrust.
 
The Skat 14-17 and 10-18 are almost identical. They work very well once the ski gets moving. The newer swirls and Concords prime a little faster and work better at low speeds. You may need to bend the trailing edge up if the ski doesnt respond quick enough. Boring the nozzle will make more low speed thrust.
Dang I did not realize that the 10-18 was not a newer style prob. I need to read up on them more. I would like some more bottom but I do love going fast as well and don’t want to loose a ton of that. I hope getting a non cracked pump shoe and an intake grate will help. Sometimes I feel like I cavitate a bit currently.
 
I have been going through the thread that DylanS attached and the other threads attached to that one and like the way that Mark44 did his. Just making a fiberglass bucket out of a cup then sealing the hood liner again. Not sure if this is the best way but seems decent and not that hard. This will be the last thing i do though. I really need to get the other stuff done first.

View attachment 431287


I would like to get the tray defoam and pump shoe done first.

Couple more questions i thought up. One of the holes for my intake grate in the front is all bad. It had a broken bolt. I could not get it out so i ripped the insert out. If i defoam i was thinking i could fix it from the inside somehow. Would that be the best way or would it be better to buy a replacement insert like the ones watcon or blowsion sells and insert it from the bottom?

Doing the pump shoe and if i fix the insert from the bottom, i would guess it would be best to flip the ski upside down. Would this be best to do with the motor pulled? I dont think in the grand scheme of things the motor is too hard to pull. ( The drypipe was a huge pain in the A$$ by myself to get the motor and pipe in) but ill get a buddy to help.

I have been thinking about getting a new prop. Keep in mind i am at elevation 5200. The one that is on the ski now is an older skat and it says 4 7v on it. I looked it up and i think that means its a 14-17. Watcon has a couple used ones that are skat 10-18 one of them for 125 bucks. That is alot cheaper than 250 or what ever it seems the new ones are. I would think that would be really helpful for low end. Any thoughts?

Just rode last night after work for about an hour. It was 60 when i got out of the water and almost dark at 6. It is getting close to time to start this project. It is about time to start trying to buy the materials and parts to do this.
On an old ski, I cut a triangle shape with rounded edges out of the hood. It was very comfortable to grab because I set it right where my hand would go and at the proper angle. I don't like the rounded holes as much. I used some cardboard to make a box and covered it in fiberglass for the backside, then glassed it to the inside of the hood. Worked great. Wish I had pictures.
 
On an old ski, I cut a triangle shape with rounded edges out of the hood. It was very comfortable to grab because I set it right where my hand would go and at the proper angle. I don't like the rounded holes as much. I used some cardboard to make a box and covered it in fiberglass for the backside, then glassed it to the inside of the hood. Worked great. Wish I had pictures.
Thank you for the info. I will play with some stuff out of cardboard and see what i like.
 
Bummed, I ordered the worx pump shoe which is supposed to fit the best and learned they are out of stock until spring next year. I don’t really wanna go with the other cast ones because they don’t fit as well so I think I’m going to go with the pro watercraft one. It’s a bit pricy at 200 but I think it will fit a bit better.
 
Finally went with a buddy and got a video. I’m pumped with the way the ski sounds. Not too loud and annoying but you can hear it.

Superjet playing around

I just spent like 400 bucks yesterday on turf, footholds and a new prowatercraft pump shoe.

I am debating on a hooker, I maybe would get one closer to spring. I have spent a lot of money right now. I am curious to call impros. I kinda think 10/16 may be the ticket for me. I wanna keep some top speed but some more hit also.
 
Location
dfw
Finally went with a buddy and got a video. I’m pumped with the way the ski sounds. Not too loud and annoying but you can hear it.

Superjet playing around

I just spent like 400 bucks yesterday on turf, footholds and a new prowatercraft pump shoe.

I am debating on a hooker, I maybe would get one closer to spring. I have spent a lot of money right now. I am curious to call impros. I kinda think 10/16 may be the ticket for me. I wanna keep some top speed but some more hit also.
There won’t be much difference in top speed. The pump load needs to be light enough for good response. You can really hurt an otherwise great running ski with too much pump load.
 
There won’t be much difference in top speed. The pump load needs to be light enough for good response. You can really hurt an otherwise great running ski with too much pump load.
Thanks, I did send off an email to impros to see what they say.

Understanding impellers is a bit tough, The lower the pitch number would mean the closer to perpendicular to the path of the boat right. For example a 0 deg pitch would be exactly perpendicular to the travel path of the boat. So a 9 degree would mean the leading edge is 9 deg off from perpendicular. In my mind the more the edge is laid back, so the more pitch, the easier it would be for the motor to turn the blade because it would keep getting closer and closer to becoming in line with the path of the boat. But it is opposite. This probably makes no sense because i am terrible at putting what is in my head on paper.

I have seen a couple of threads where Impros has said the 9/15 would only run 40 ish mph. At my elevation that would probably be even worse. I really am wanting to go faster than that. That is why i thought maybe the 10/16. But at elevation if my ski cant turn the 16 on the high end to max rpm then it does not matter.
 
Bit frustrated with impros (Glen), I described my ski and my situation and what i am looking for out of the ski and he just says get a 9/15. Then I told him i was worried about low top speed that i had read you max at about 40 which would probably be lower at my elevation and he said then get the 10/16. Then I said i was concerned that the 10/16 my ski would not be able to spin it up top and he said that's why i said 9/15. Its like no explanation, no explaining, no bringing up any tests or facts. Seems very lazy to me. I would think that if they have recommended a 10/16 to a stock ski that my ski at elevation could turn a 10/16. Who knows though. I'm not buying to props to test and would rather not pay to get one that i buy re worked.
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Anything in a new style will be better than that old school 4-7v imo.
Assuming you don’t have any boring done to your nozzles I would just go with the 10/16 and if it’s a little steep you can always tweak your setup to help the ski spin it up a little faster.
I would say with the package you’re running you’d be safe with a 10-16.
Unfortunately pump tuning is very tedious and expensive to figure out so you’ll be spending the money for someone who knows their stuff to size it for you or you’ll be spending the money to experiment. Most guys don’t really like giving away their hard earned knowledge unless they’re certain you’ll be doing business with them. It stops people from getting their advice and then buying their prop somewhere else cheaper.
I don’t have much experience dealing with Glen but Brian from torrent is awesome and if you decided to go that route he’s great for sizing props and doing business with.
 
Anything in a new style will be better than that old school 4-7v imo.
Assuming you don’t have any boring done to your nozzles I would just go with the 10/16 and if it’s a little steep you can always tweak your setup to help the ski spin it up a little faster.
I would say with the package you’re running you’d be safe with a 10-16.
Unfortunately pump tuning is very tedious and expensive to figure out so you’ll be spending the money for someone who knows their stuff to size it for you or you’ll be spending the money to experiment. Most guys don’t really like giving away their hard earned knowledge unless they’re certain you’ll be doing business with them. It stops people from getting their advice and then buying their prop somewhere else cheaper.
I don’t have much experience dealing with Glen but Brian from torrent is awesome and if you decided to go that route he’s great for sizing props and doing business with.
That is good to know thanks for the information. I would get it if somebody did not want to give all of their testing out to the public but deciding between two props that you sell come on. He offered me nothing basically to try to sell me a 330 dollar prop. I'm not trying to get every last little bit out of the ski i just want it to be decent. If i called up Renthal for my 450 motocross bike and told them i want something that hits decent on bottom but still has a top speed he would not give me a 4 word answer on which sprocket to buy. Its not like I'm asking him his brand and another brand its between two impros impellers. Your can give a little bit more information then going back and forth and seeming more unsure than I am about which one i should buy. To me it just seemed like he could give a crap if he sold it to me or not and could give a crap if it actually even worked for what i would like.
 
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