Stock Squarenose to Sweet Superjet --- step by step my first ski

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Im saying I DID beacuse I add the extentions too it. The stock side rails are slippery and I didnt know if my glue would work on it. I think turffing over them is fine in your case.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
How nessacary is it to replace the bushings in my handle pole? They look fine and I dont realy see the valuable reasoning.

Thanks-NICK
 
the rivets add a LOT more strength than you may realize. BUT, they can be $hitty on the fingers if youre doing tricks that involve grabbing the underside of the rail.

you wont see them once the ski is turfed if you use diamond. you may with grooved.
 

IceRocket1286

Site Supporter
Location
Metro Detroit
If your pole has some side to side play in it, its time for new bushings. period

p.s. its VOILA! not WALLA! lol

ski looks sweet tho man, keep it up! I also glassed my stock nosepiece together, looks trick and was free.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
BOTTOM REBUILD

Goal:
To fill in scratches on under side,to add a little beef to the spots that get beat the most, and finally to rebuild the shape of the goarged rails in the back.


Materials:
Fiberglass Filler (duraglass)
Dolphin Glaze (polyester putty)
old magazine
old screw driver
tounge depressers
Plasterers Knife
Paper towles
Sand paper (120, 220, 320, 400 grit)
Drywall Sand Paper (80 grit)
1/4 sheet sander


Step By Step:
  • flip the hull up side down (duh!)
  • start off by mixing some fiberglass filler on magazine with hardener
  • spread with putty knife thinly over flat part of hull
  • use sander and 80 grit to flaten out
  • repeat untill satisfied (to 220 grit)
  • mix filler and rebuild rear rails
  • sand and repeat untill satisfied (to 220 grit)
  • mix filler and fill gouges in double cups on each side
  • sand and repeat untill satisfied (to 220 grit)
  • go over entire hull with polyester glaze (mix little at a time and spread thin)
  • sand with 220, 320
  • repeat untill satisfied (320 grit)
  • sand all to 400 grit


Conclusion:
In the end it turned out real well. I probably added alittle more than I should have to some spots but... Im no pro and at most it might wiegh a pound or so more. Also I found it tricky to fillet filler in to cups on the sides, just be carfull not to put too much on there. It took a lot of sanding and sanding and sanding. It never looked perfect or good enought for me, but once I painted it it looks SWEET!!! Remeber its just the bottom and dosent have to be perfect. The main point of doing this it to get the protection and strenght back of a new hull.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
finally figured out what to do to resixe in picasa2...
 

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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
last ones...
 

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F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
I hated doing the prep work. I did not do as extensive a job as you and I left the pump shoe in. I got the major stuff and took it to the painter and told him "its the bottom, just make the sides look decent and put color on the rest". It is going to be banged up anyway. I wish I would have taken my time to do more body work but we will see how it turn out. If it was perfect I would not want to ride it hard............thats my justification and I'm sticking to it :biggrin:
 
Y

yamaslut

Guest
Nick bro.... you are ****ing hilarious.... I use to go to that extent too... I did that same **** to my fist ski... More power to ya bro....

:Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01: :Banane01:
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
GAS TANK MOD

Goal:
To set up my gas tank for internal fuel fill, and to use both stock straps to hold tank in place.

Materials:
oem gas tank
oem fuel pickup
oem fuel filler hose (from bill to tank)
oem filler cap,spout, screws, and gasket
oem fuel line
WD40
2 hose clamps
hand saw
heat gun
Pliers
#2 Philliaps Hand Driver
dremel with cut off wheel
drill with drill bit


Step By Step:

  • take out stock pick up assembley
  • remove pin with pliers
  • remove plastic housing
  • attach 6 inchs of oem fuel line to (ON) pickup
  • bend pickups to a slight angle
  • insert pickup into oemfiller hole on the back side
  • play around with lenght of hoses and bends to liking
  • use saw to cut a short peice of oem filler neck off
  • heat tubing
  • slide on to oem pick up and clamp down
  • slipe on to oem filler hole (heat and WD40 if nessacary)
  • clamp down
  • use cut off wheel to remove flange on oem pickup hole
  • clean up edge with razor
  • clean tank free of all debrie and shavings
  • insert oem filler cap n spout
  • drill apropriat holes
  • use hand scre driver to screw on
  • WALLA!!!!! or VIOLA!!! (as icerocket says)

Conclusion:
Wow! This was awesome and it scost nothing. It took me less than 20 minutes. Be sure to clean it good before you screw in the cap n spout other wise its a b#$%. Just think, interenal fillers from the big guys big money and this should work great. All the parts used were from the original ski. Props to the guy I saw do this first, I just modified it a little...
 

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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
few more...

I like picasa2, I just made a folder called ThreadPics and I can have a copy (of smaller of course) of the exact folders and pictures under that folder. Works great!
 

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