Superjet Hood seal?

B

backen

Location
Jersey Shore
backen said:
OK so tell me about that, how do you prep it. how do i get the hardened glue off?
I started trying to scrape it, that is not working.

Thanks
Click to expand...

The point of failure on my ski was not the gasket itself but the glue, which is what i suspect is the problem for most of you. I have owned several skis and never had this issue before. I wonder under what circumstances does that glue fail... or perhaps enough was never applied to begin with.
The only difference I can think of is that this ski was never stored in a garage for the winter like the others were.

Also still looking for ways to get that glue off - if you have another idea - let me know.
 
227

227

Its all about the surf!
Location
Oceanside, CA
I have always removed the old glue in the groove with a 4" wire wheel disk attached to a dremel. As for the seal itself, I have a Watcon on one of my skis as well and have no complaints. A little while ago, There was a new seal out offered by a forum member, I believe his name was stunts318? Suppose-ably it was similar to the Watcon except it was attached to the hood itself (Press on install to the inner hood lip, Nothing to glue into the groove). It was compatibly priced to the Watcon. Anyone tried one of these? How do they compare to the Watcon?
 
kcmasterpiece

kcmasterpiece

Sweet Baby Ray's Sucks
Location
Daytona Beach
ive had both the watcon and the seal which attached to the hood. They both worked for me, but im going to run just a watcon seal on the hull because when you store the ski with the hood off you have to keep the hood upside down or somehow off the seal. after a while the seal gets squished and holds the shape. then its a pita to stuff it in the hood groove.

FYI

Style 10 is the watcon style seal
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


Style 1 is the hood seal.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


As for what size to get. i just measured my hood and the groove the best i could to make a guess on the dimensions of the seal. Made my best guess and it worked fine. the watcon style seal is obviously easier to figure out the size (just measure the width of the hood groove) as for the clamp on bulb seal, you need to figure out the thickness of the hood and how big you want the bulb. i found you dont want the bulb too big or its tough to stuff in the groove, but you also have to remember when you tighten the hood down it will squish down and expand in the groove.
 
slamb33

slamb33

s
Location
NorCal
While we are on the topic, I have a bit of seal trouble putting my hood on, the front edge of the hood catches the seal and squishes it up towars front. I think it has to do with the waterdawg hood hooks on the hull, as the hood has the stock RN SJ posts still, and I don't have this problem on my other RN SJ that has the factory hooks on the hull.

Has anyone else experienced this and found a work around? I am running a OEM seal and this was happening on my previous OEM seal as well. Would the hood mounted seal perhaps work better, or one of the ones that is designed to squish down more so than the OEM one?

Thanks...
 
B

backen

Location
Jersey Shore
Gasket and glue are removed.

I borrowed a dremel and also bought a Stripping & Conditioning kit from Harbor Freight Tools (used a 20% off coupon kit cost $6.84 with tax)
I used the coarse pad on a electric drill and that worked great for both sides. its slightly thicker than desirable, and with a large drill nearly imposible to manuver in the front and back sections, and not a chance in the corners. After a few passes with that I used the dremel with a buffing wheel (actually burned through 3 of them, and I wished I had a 4th.) Needless to say, there is not one drop of glue left. I got the Watcon seal but am concerned about just using the self stick adhesive that comes on it. Any more feedback about that?

stripping kit.jpg
 
gabe_k

gabe_k

Location
Orange County
kcmasterpiece said:
Style 1 is the hood seal.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


As for what size to get. i just measured my hood and the groove the best i could to make a guess on the dimensions of the seal. Made my best guess and it worked fine. the watcon style seal is obviously easier to figure out the size (just measure the width of the hood groove) as for the clamp on bulb seal, you need to figure out the thickness of the hood and how big you want the bulb. i found you dont want the bulb too big or its tough to stuff in the groove, but you also have to remember when you tighten the hood down it will squish down and expand in the groove.
Click to expand...

Hey that's the "surf seal" I just paid $36 for 90 inches when it's only $1.50 a foot!! And I get 50% off from them through my company... Awesome!
 
willcastner

willcastner

Location
NH
X2^ that kinda sucks huh. I just bought one too and now I find this. Im just about the place an order with McMaster too.
 
Last edited:
slamb33

slamb33

s
Location
NorCal
kcmasterpiece said:
ive had both the watcon and the seal which attached to the hood. They both worked for me, but im going to run just a watcon seal on the hull because when you store the ski with the hood off you have to keep the hood upside down or somehow off the seal. after a while the seal gets squished and holds the shape. then its a pita to stuff it in the hood groove.

FYI

Style 10 is the watcon style seal
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


Style 1 is the hood seal.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=hquttl


As for what size to get. i just measured my hood and the groove the best i could to make a guess on the dimensions of the seal. Made my best guess and it worked fine. the watcon style seal is obviously easier to figure out the size (just measure the width of the hood groove) as for the clamp on bulb seal, you need to figure out the thickness of the hood and how big you want the bulb. i found you dont want the bulb too big or its tough to stuff in the groove, but you also have to remember when you tighten the hood down it will squish down and expand in the groove.
Click to expand...


which ones are you referring to as style 1 and 10? thanks!
 
FearMyWrX

FearMyWrX

Location
Seattle
backen said:
I borrowed a dremel and also bought a Stripping & Conditioning kit from Harbor Freight Tools (used a 20% off coupon kit cost $6.84 with tax)
I used the coarse pad on a electric drill and that worked great for both sides. its slightly thicker than desirable, and with a large drill nearly imposible to manuver in the front and back sections, and not a chance in the corners. After a few passes with that I used the dremel with a buffing wheel (actually burned through 3 of them, and I wished I had a 4th.) Needless to say, there is not one drop of glue left. I got the Watcon seal but am concerned about just using the self stick adhesive that comes on it. Any more feedback about that?

View attachment 185878
Click to expand...


The peel and stick works for some people. I had a buddy do that and has been riding year around since (about a year now) and has had zero problems.

I on the other hand, just went and bought some rubber cement and used that and that sucker is on there! Worth the extra couple bucks and 10 min to do it with the rubber cement.
 
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