If you would like to become a test rider James please pm me I'll set you up.
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The newly released JSTL Inc, TL ignition module...with a touch of OCD!
- Thread starter OCD Solutions
- Start date
VXSXH20
Sionis Industries
- Location
- Mid-Atlantic
Boyer, what about using the Heavy duty clear Velcro used on the Ez-pass highway toll transponders? its rigid and strong as hell?
skinnyman
YOU CANT RENT MY SKI
- Location
- Dallas/ToyBox
Just so my old arse understands
TL that fits in stock e box /Programmable thru PC/ No timing necessary
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner
TL that fits in stock e box /Programmable thru PC/ No timing necessary
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
I didn't think the attachment of the unit is that big of a deal but reading back, I think I caused some confusion with my wording and that is what you guys are responding to.
I spoke about using using Velcro so I could remove the unit to more easily access the programming port. The detail I left out was that, should I figure out a way to permanently attach and seal the programming lead to the unit, then I would no longer need to remove the unit from the ebox for programming. In that case, it could be mounted with something much higher tech than Velcro.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Yes! Maybe I need to start posting some screenshots from the software!
- Location
- Hamilton,
Have you found you've needed to adjust your delay compensation when using your light, also why have the static angle calculation in the manual if you've already marked your stator plate?
If you want to adjust it. I can remove it but it's easier to understand that way
- Location
- Hamilton,
Did you adjust your delay compensation at all when timing the ignition?
No, but you should set it between 16-30
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waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
The ignition needs to know how far in degrees it sees the lump so it know how long to hold the spark.
I have not needed to run the delay compensation before it's never been an issue.
X2 and I have spoken about this ignition backwards and forwards. It looks like it's going to be a good reliable unit
- Location
- Hamilton,
I realize what the calculation is doing in relation to the spark, but since his stator came pre marked I didn't understand why he would include the calculation in the manual. When I was timing in the unit I am using, I had the strobe light slightly drift possibly 1mm or less to either side of my set timing marks when running a flat curve its not something I was to worried about just thought I would ask if he played around adjusting those numbers at all to see what difference they made. I will try adjusting them eventually.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
I believe they added the mark afterwards to make things easier to set up. The calculations were already in the manual.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Im a little confused as to what you are asking.
In the picture that they have in the manual it says 35 degree and they say there unit is 40 degree is that what you are refering to ?
What ever that value is is the most ignition timing you can run on an ignition.
I didn't get any walk or not much that I could measure on my ignition but I only reved it to 8000 rpm as the timing light didn't like going much higher than that, It just couldn't deal with the amount os sparks. I have done it before with a timing light tacho and a video camera so I could see it on a replay with out having to figure it out while the engine was screaming it head off
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
That's where the test bench comes in handy! I can run up to 10,000 RPM and only have to deal with about a third of the noise. I can also hold a particular rpm much more steady so it's easier to see if the timing actually wanders or just fluctuates with variation in RPM.
As soon as my flywheel shows up I plan to start running this thing on my bench and torture test it. I really want to see if it heats up and if I need to run heat sinks with it in an enclosure. I am also curious as to how long it can run on a charge. I can't accurately simulate the voltage depletion from the load of a starter so it won't be a direct comparison but I figure I can at least monitor how long it takes to deplete a battery by 1 volt and then you experienced TL guys can draw conclusions from there.
The other torture test I have planned is to see how it handles long term heat soak. What happens if you hold 3500, 5000 or 7000 RPM's for an hour at a time?
As soon as my flywheel shows up I plan to start running this thing on my bench and torture test it. I really want to see if it heats up and if I need to run heat sinks with it in an enclosure. I am also curious as to how long it can run on a charge. I can't accurately simulate the voltage depletion from the load of a starter so it won't be a direct comparison but I figure I can at least monitor how long it takes to deplete a battery by 1 volt and then you experienced TL guys can draw conclusions from there.
The other torture test I have planned is to see how it handles long term heat soak. What happens if you hold 3500, 5000 or 7000 RPM's for an hour at a time?
- Location
- Wasaga Beach
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Dual curves as much as it sounds great is not that much use to you as it changes the fuel curve needed, You could run it with a low limiter on the same style curve like a hole shot button for racing.
But even then its just going to foul the plugs, You could run it really retarded and make it heat the pipe prior to a race start but I really cant see it being much help to a free style guy with this modern tricks.
Normally I just set both curves the same so I know it doesn't matter where the curve is set its always the same
- Location
- Hamilton,
Yes thats basically what i was asking, when over lets say 8000 rpm for example my marks werent quite lining up perfect I was assuming thats what the delay compensation feature was doing when adjusted I may be able to get a tighter tolerance but possibly its as you mentioned the light cant just deal with the sparks at that high of rpm.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
yes that's what the delay is for, When I set up an ignition I normally just throw in a flat line say 15 degree and just rev it up and see how it reacts in regard to the timing moving.
I find you get a fluctuation but its normally pretty stable. I have not used compensation ever before on a jetski, I have used it on a 15000 rpm bike engine
I find you get a fluctuation but its normally pretty stable. I have not used compensation ever before on a jetski, I have used it on a 15000 rpm bike engine
- Location
- New York Crew
OCD, good deal keep us posted on the testing for the heat sink and battery loss. What battery are you going to test with?
speedysprocket
Alex
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
Wouldn't current draw be more useful and applicable to everyone with different capacity batteries?