This melt down just might have me stumped..

Roseand

The Weaponizer
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Wisconsin
Okay with muriatic acid turns out the cylinder is in really good shape and just needs a piston hone and rings...
Do I need to get another oem 81.5 piston? Or is it fine to use a prox one?
 
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dfw
I went off of recommended porting specs, I guess that's why I was surprised.
Pilot jets are always very sensitive, going from a 120 to 125 is very noticeable. Single carb setups make the main circuit insensitive to small changes, you need to make larger moves. My last 61x cased 701 needed a 160 and 2 turns in order to get 20 rpm rich of peak.
 
Egt tuning is no good unless you already know what they should be. Best power mixture occurs below max temp. We have the ability to measure power with a tach, the temps don't matter.
They most certainly do if you want to save a burndown. Been there. Egt's on my sled saved a burn down three different times with three different problems. Those combined with plug reading and wash is how I tuned that motor and it flat out rips


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Location
dfw
They most certainly do if you want to save a burndown. Been there. Egt's on my sled saved a burn down three different times with three different problems. Those combined with plug reading and wash is how I tuned that motor and it flat out rips


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How do you know the proper temps? Some engines run great at 1100, others melt at 1000. These instruments are not widely used in watercraft anyway. An experienced ear and cheap tach will allow you to find best power quickly and safely. Exhaust temp and plug color are secondary to the fact that best power has been attained. No need to make the tail wag the dog.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
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Wisconsin
Little bit of an update: My porter said that he'd honestly recommend switching to a 2.0 n/s since it'll change the fuel curve, different than a 1.5 would even with different springs. He said he personally would try that without even touching the jetting again, since there was just a lean spot from 1/2ish to 3/4 throttle. I still think I'm going to change up the jetting and start rich and work my way down. He said the goal is to have the largest possible pilot jet you can have without it loading up.
Does anyone have some ideas on where to start with popoff with a 2.0 n/s? I was planning on starting with a 130 pilot and 160 main and going down from there. Like I said, there were no hesitations or bogs anywhere before, but it was obviously running on the edge melting down.
 
Location
dfw
Dropping the pop off will make the pilot jet and idle screw much richer. I found a 130 to be too rich with 2.0/80g, it did allow for a peaked out WOT without hesitation. A 125-2.0/95g is probably about right but try an 80g and note the difference. Changing the pop off won't change full throttle mixture very much.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
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Location
Wisconsin
Dropping the pop off will make the pilot jet much richer. I found that a 130 to be too rich with 2.0/80g, it did allow for a peaked out WOT without hesitation. A 125-2.0/95g is probably about right but try an 80g and note the difference. Changing the pop off won't change full throttle mixture very much.
What kind of setup were you running with this?
 
Location
usa
A little side note about that situation: A very very reputable engine builder message me about that thread and shared his theory on the marks, and due to that one mark not being deep at all, it very much likely confirmed his suspicion. But he didn't want to post on the thread due to people disagreeing.
His theory, especially since it was on the intake side, is that those marks are very normal from when water is ingested since skis constantly get small amounts of oil through them. He said he's noticed it with certain oils. There was a few rides where I was running cheap wally world oil, and there's a possibility that that's when that happened. Just what a builder told me... Was told not to worry about it due to the compression being perfect.

i didn't realize, but i did reply on your other post
did you glass bead the piston skirts before reusing the pistons?
if you didn't, i think you just continued the seizing till it got really bad and finally stuck it good
you always have to remove any of the imbedded black death from piston skirts before ever reusing them
once it starts, its like cancer, you have to remove all traces of black death
 

Roseand

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Location
Wisconsin
i didn't realize, but i did reply on your other post
did you glass bead the piston skirts before reusing the pistons?
if you didn't, i think you just continued the seizing till it got really bad and finally stuck it good
you always have to remove any of the imbedded black death from piston skirts before ever reusing them
once it starts, its like cancer, you have to remove all traces of black death
Interesting!! No I just reused them. But looking back at the posts, the rear piston was fine and it was the front one that had the black mark.
 
Location
dfw
What kind of setup were you running with this?
This engine used a stock 61x bottom with a 61x cyl ported almost to 62t timing. The pipe was a sizzler and the pump was set for 6900 min. I never could get it to rev over 7k. It had fair response and ran 48 all day. I later exchanged this lower for a complete 760 case/carb. It made the pipe hit harder but didn't turn anymore rpm.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
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Wisconsin
Don't be soo serious man...it's the X! I think you have the problem narrowed.


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Yeah for sure. Like I said, I was just really surprised since my porting isn't that extreme and I was running similar jetting to most ported motors and it ripped hard. But, sometimes you gotta learn the hard way. I just got lucky that all I need is a piston kit and a hone!
 

550/440

Maybe I'll get it all the way around NEXT time....
Location
Arizona!
Did you ever check the reeds? A friend of mine had a similar situation with a B1 engine. Broken reed was to blame.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
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Location
Wisconsin
Did you ever check the reeds? A friend of mine had a similar situation with a B1 engine. Broken reed was to blame.
Didn't yet! Think we've narrowed it down to being lean, but I'm gonna grab a small mirror so I can check the upper reeds without taking the mani off. The lowers are fine.
 
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