This melt down just might have me stumped..

SXIPro

JM781 Big Bore
Will do. If it's an air leak it only leaks when running...static leak test passes. And spraying carb cleaner around the gaskets of the engine and carb when running does not show signs of a leak.

A static leak test typically will not catch an air leak caused by a bad primer or a primer that is plumbed wrong. I was bitten by that issue a few years ago.
 

CRJ

Hibernating
Location
Toronto
A static leak test typically will not catch an air leak caused by a bad primer or a primer that is plumbed wrong. I was bitten by that issue a few years ago.
primer should be above the butterfly, and have no effect on the airflow into the carb.

edit: i think i get you were referring to air in the fuel line?
 
Yeah I looked at that and was surprised by my popoff pressure when I checked it... And the gauge I'm using is accurate. It's possible for a spring to be off spec tho, isn't it?

very possible for the spring to be out of spec. When i sit down to do pop off i take a handful of springs cause it may take quite a few different ones before the correct pop off is achieved.
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
Likely not the cause of your issue, but there's no reason to run race fuel when you have an engine designed for pump gas. Local 964 owner decided to try mixing 110 50/50 with 93. I rode that ski and was like what happened to this thing?! Put some more 93 in and came back to life. He tried adding 110 again and it ran like crap again. If you don't have the compression and timing to account for the higher octane, it's wasted money, and sometimes even a performance loss!
Also, 45:1 on oil...? Just saying...

x2 no race gas needed. It will run worse with race gas if not needed for the timing and compression.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
I ran straight 93 and then switched to 20% race gas, and I noticed zero difference in power. I've been told countless times that running at high speeds with premium gas is risky since the quality of it is never consistent. I talked to zack alot about this a while back, and he did tell me that running a little bit of race gas won't hurt anything. I'm running usually a 20% blend and have for over a season and haven't had any issues.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
at that mix, you are most likely ok. Race gas takes more heat to get it to fire off. that is why if you do not have the timing or compression for it, then you are actually hurting your performance. I have ran 35cc domes with 92/93 octane for years with no issues. Your porting is based around freestyle. Not racing. You would be fine with straight pump gas. Years ago on RIVA's site you could order cylinders with porting. They gave you 2 options. Pump Gas or Race Gas. The race gas ones showed the compression setup actually in the 170 range on one option. But with a note stating that you had to run 105+ octane.. Its all about the port timing.
 

SXIPro

JM781 Big Bore
primer should be above the butterfly, and have no effect on the airflow into the carb.

edit: i think i get you were referring to air in the fuel line?

When I bought my SJ the primer was plumbed below the butterfly AND in the primary fuel line not the return line. A double whammy, so to speak, that ended up costing me about $400.00
 
Location
dfw
Ada heads need a lot of water because they dont use a gasket with flow control holes. All single carbs will have a hot and cold cylinder, tune the hot one. I went through this many years ago until I learned to start way too rich and slowly lean to a hesitation after a tank of run time, depending on starting piston clearance. I would start with a 170 and 2 turns using a stock F/A. AM F/As may need a larger main. Never hold 60-90% throttle, if you are going to cruise on the pipe keep it pinned.
 

CRJ

Hibernating
Location
Toronto
looking back at that piston wash on the rear cylinder, it honestly just looks like a lean lock up. if your varying throttle style of riding leaves that kind of a mark, a WOT run will for sure sieze it. Explains the leak down test, the awesome power gains you saw and why it only lasted one ride. I bet it started transferring metal the first day. when you rebuild it start real rich, work your way down. 150m 125p with 1.5 turns out on both means you could have gone up in jetting. You probably rode right on the cusp of power/sieze, and the area that sees the least oil in the air was the first to go. And correct me if im wrong, cause its been a long day of coding, but a burnt plug means its also lean, and the white plug would have been from getting washed off riding it back while its not running on that cylinder. (race fuel is almost better than acetone)

Id rebuild, up the jetting on both by at least 10 and tune from there, cause i bet 150 wasnt enough.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
looking back at that piston wash on the rear cylinder, it honestly just looks like a lean lock up. if your varying throttle style of riding leaves that kind of a mark, a WOT run will for sure sieze it. Explains the leak down test, the awesome power gains you saw and why it only lasted one ride. I bet it started transferring metal the first day. when you rebuild it start real rich, work your way down. 150m 125p with 1.5 turns out on both means you could have gone up in jetting. You probably rode right on the cusp of power/sieze, and the area that sees the least oil in the air was the first to go. And correct me if im wrong, cause its been a long day of coding, but a burnt plug means its also lean, and the white plug would have been from getting washed off riding it back while its not running on that cylinder. (race fuel is almost better than acetone)

Id rebuild, up the jetting on both by at least 10 and tune from there, cause i bet 150 wasnt enough.
That makes me positive that the white plug was the rear. It happened over a mile away from shore(was still running it for a few minutes after it cut out and apparently dropped a cylinder) and I still was on plane the whole way back, so that would have given my plug time to get washed clean and my other plug to darken up. It's starting to make more sense as just a lean condition but you can't judge it by the front plug since I ran it for a few minutes after the siezure.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
c9899ae91ee8b4d86d7c5b90908104c3.jpg
this is the wash of the rear blown piston

This is the wash of the front:
4c8a57a4c4f15a247bdf8118fe8da636.jpg
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
Just to add to the octane posts here.

I run an 82mm 61x cylinder with 33cc Ada girdled head. Stock porting.

I will hold my motor wide open as long as my body will let me with no issues. It's all about the jetting. A large/cool fuel charge will keep the heat away from grenading a piston.
 
If you think your plugs got washed clean, take the dark one and see how clean you can get it in acetone and a tooth/wire brush and then think if it's possible to clean a plug that well inside of the motor when the walls and head were covered with that gray oil residue


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CRJ

Hibernating
Location
Toronto
If you think your plugs got washed clean, take the dark one and see how clean you can get it in acetone and a tooth/wire brush and then think if it's possible to clean a plug that well inside of the motor when the walls and head were covered with that gray oil residue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Blasting it with metal bits will clean it pretty well.


Regardless the rear cylinder was lean, especially where it locked the ring. Fatten up your jetting and try again!
 
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