Trinity Composites EVO XF

stuntbikemike

stuntbikemike

Time to ride
Location
clearwater
FL-cracker said:
I got a lot of SJ stuff to get rid of!.... Pumps, props, and hulls. Maybe some cases and cylinders as well.

Now I dont know what to do with the conversion ski. I am just about over it.
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ill take some of that stuff.....but you really need to finish that flat deck for daytona.....youll regret it.....that is a true custom project.....don't let it go its half way there
 
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Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Wrapping up this EVO XF build with a couple more pics to come. The finished hull weighs 88.8 lbs. That is hull with foam in the upper deck, footholds, pump shoe, glued and all plumbing. Without nose piece and ride plate.<<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q6/TrinityComposites/DSCF1545.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
 
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Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
I just reread the specs and see you use Awl grip.... why not use Awl Craft 2000 so you can buff it out if neccessary? Awl grip is awesome, but awl craft 2000 is where it's at IMO. I deal with waxing boats day in and day out, so I definately have my favs on paints and gelcoat.... :(
 
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Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Kennay said:
I just reread the specs and see you use Awl grip.... why not use Awl Craft 2000 so you can buff it out if neccessary? Awl grip is awesome, but awl craft 2000 is where it's at IMO. I deal with waxing boats day in and day out, so I definately have my favs on paints and gelcoat.... :(
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I've used a lot of each and both can be buffed from what I know? Awl grip is polyester and Awl craft is acrylic. Awl grip should be buffed a little slower and cooler to keep from shrinking up. If applied right there is no need for buffing, it just breaks down the topcoat and opens up porosity. Buffing compounds can yellow the colors as well. Awl grip and awl craft make some sealers in place of compounds and polishes, which compounds do more harm than good in all paints, unless you bring it all the way up to a sealer. Just like gel once you buff it, its down hill from there. You open up the porosity and its never the same again. Why do you say not to buff awl grip ? I might be missing something.
 
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Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
Call up us paint and ask them if you can wetsand and buff it (Regular Awl Grip). Get back to me on what they tell ya. With Awl Craft 2000, you can buff it out after a specified period of time (Can't remember exactly how long) if you need to do any touch up painting or what not. And I wasn't talking about buffing out the initial coat, I was talking about having to do touch up painting later because jet ski's get all scratched up and what not over time. Mainly the concern of blending in the overspray....

I keep a few bottles of Us Paint sealant for the boats that have Awl grip, but honestly, most of the time I just use a regular ol' Synthetic wax on them because I'm convinced it's pretty much all it is. Us paint can say what they want, I've seen what works and lasts just as good as their stuff.
 
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Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
And for the record, I am deff. not trying to just bicker or 'jack your thread in the wrong direction. It was more or less a simple question as to why you prefer Awl grip :)
 
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Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Kennay said:
And for the record, I am deff. not trying to just bicker or 'jack your thread in the wrong direction. It was more or less a simple question as to why you prefer Awl grip :)
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It was what I had at the time. Its pretty nasty stuff. I do like Awl Craft better in how it lays out. I'm sure you have some tricks over awl craft which they or any company wants to tell you need to use every last product from there line. So what do they say about buffing awl grip?
 
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Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
I've just been told by a few people who do strictly marine painting and fiberglass repair that it's pretty much too damn hard (Literally) to buff out, and you can sand it with the finest grit you can find, and that is about as shiny as it is going to get once you hit it with paper. They say there isn't a compound out that will buff it back out. I am also about 99% sure US Paint says no no to buffing the regular awl grip, but you can buff the awl craft eventually. And I've also heard that the Awl Craft is easier to work with, just as you mentioned.

Side note though... Awl Grip is damn near bomb proof (Sure you know that though). It is definately the toughest paint I have ever encountered on a boat. It's like powder coating for fiberglass haha.
 
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Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Kennay said:
I've just been told by a few people who do strictly marine painting and fiberglass repair that it's pretty much too damn hard (Literally) to buff out, and you can sand it with the finest grit you can find, and that is about as shiny as it is going to get once you hit it with paper. They say there isn't a compound out that will buff it back out. I am also about 99% sure US Paint says no no to buffing the regular awl grip, but you can buff the awl craft eventually. And I've also heard that the Awl Craft is easier to work with, just as you mentioned.

Side note though... Awl Grip is damn near bomb proof (Sure you know that though). It is definately the toughest paint I have ever encountered on a boat. It's like powder coating for fiberglass haha.
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That is for sure. Don't ever spay it without a mask. I forgot my mask once and had to spay just the bottom of a hull in a booth. I thought I was going to die. I was hacking for days no joke. The first night I had a hard time breathing. I have never been around any paint, gel or resin that bad before.
 
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Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
I think I am going to call US Paint tomorrow to ask them why exactly it is that you can't buff the awp grip out but you can bugg the awl craft 2000. I am genuinely interested... I would like to hear it straight from the horse's mouth so to speak regarding it.

A boat I have been taking care of for about the last 5 years got a new awl grip job about 4 or so years ago, and it still looks like the day it came out of the boat yard. Tough stuff no doubt...


And dude, if you do a SJ hull, will you be using the 08 hull or pre 08?

And awesome build!
 
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FL-cracker

X-H2O
Location
old exit 72 Melbourne
Trinity Composites said:
Wrapping up this EVO XF build with a couple more pics to come. The finished hull weighs 88.8 lbs. That is hull with foam in the upper deck, footholds, pump shoe, glued and all plumbing. Without nose piece and ride plate.<<img src="http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q6/TrinityComposites/DSCF1545.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
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Thats a good # including scupper, exhaust, and foot holds! :arms:
 
Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Trinity Composites said:
That is for sure. Don't ever spay it without a mask. I forgot my mask once and had to spay just the bottom of a hull in a booth. I thought I was going to die. I was hacking for days no joke. The first night I had a hard time breathing. I have never been around any paint, gel or resin that bad before.
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Bobby, I am just gonna have to say it...........


Dumbass.............
 
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Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Finished, leaves tomorrow. Final weight is 92.1 lbs. That is hull, rideplate, pump intake, foam, footholds, mounts and plumbing. The owner has started a build thread on pwc today for info and pics of the build as it is completed.
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