R.E.V 12 why so expensive? That is the question!!!!
I have been following the unveiling of the newest Waterdawg Kustomz product. I must say that there is a good debate going on about “to buy or not to buy” from Jeff. Each person has to make that decision. I will be up front and tell you that I have bought it hook line and sinker since I own an X-jet and a R.E.V. ski. Both are powered by the 66E motor. I read several comments in this post as to what makes it so expensive to build. How did the price of the R.E.V.12 become 30K plus? Keep in mind custom ski’s are not cheap to build. I say that if you want one for yourself, you can build it for less. I believe it cost 30K plus because Jeff built it using new parts and he charged for his labor to assemble it.
Here are a few examples of items that contribute to the high cost, which could have been mitigated if done by the ski owner and used parts were obtained.
Hydro turfing the ski and rails. How much time does it take you to lay out, cut, and glue the pad and turf to the ski? For those of you that have done it once, you know it takes some time. I did my first ski and it took me several days. Jeff told me he has it down to around 8 hours. $50(shop rate) an hour x 8 = $400 you could save doing it your self.
Handle bar bolt and nut. If you have to buy one new, look at spending $90. If you have a used one from another ski, do you include that in the cost or your ski build up? Most of us tend to forget this when figuring out what our ski really cost us. Jeff had to buy one so he included it.
Steering cable – I bought a new cable for my ski for $150 bucks. I still needed the two fasteners that screw on to the cable that attaché to the pump and turn plate. I still needed the rubber plunger and plastic cap that fits into the pump housing at the back of ski. Here is an example of not just buying a cable but all the other parts that make up the cable. Jeff bought a new cable assembly, so it was more like $220.
Jeff’s goal was to have the ski done in time to take it the World finals. His customer was aware of this and was asked to supply the parts for this ski way in advance. He had the chance to buy all the necessary parts, new or used and send them in. Given enough time spent looking for them, most of these parts could be bought second hand. If this had been done it would have reduced the price considerably. Do to his dead line he didn’t have the time to shop for used parts. He spent his time and energy buying them from Yamaha and other sources. What should he charge for his time for this shopping spree? Here is a list of some items and parts needed to assemble this ski:
Hood seal, hood lock mechanism, gas power valves, pump seal, mid bearing, coupler cover, SJ motor coupler that goes on crank, throttle cable, throttle lever, UMI bars, grips, start/stop switch, quick turn plate - bearings and components, hydro turf and pad, hood pad, Oddessy battery, positive and negative battery cables, MSD TL, board for TL, relay for TL, electrical fasteners for TL, TL on off switch, fuel hoses, fuel filter, water lines, cooling T’s and fittings, hose clamps, motor gaskets, steering cable, intake grate, ride plate, water pisser, gas cap with filler neck, one way valve, bow tie down fitting, all the various stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts, motor mounts, motor shims, shortened pump shaft, pump shoe, 148mm magnum pump, exit nozzle, turn nozzle, prop, pump bearings and internal components, air breather tubes for hood, carburetor air breathers, carburetor wheel, bilge pump, bulge switch, bilge exit fitting, CA glue, rubber cement, 3M polish compound, sand paper. I am not sure if this ski has water injection or not. I know I have left something out, but you get the idea. Some of these items are fairly inexpensive to buy but do add up quite fast.
1200 Motor cost:
GP800 cases, crank, timing cover, starter motor, starter bendix, and all the motor gaskets. I have no clue how much Jeff assigned to these items for this ski. I assigned a value of $1700 to them. He did till me he bought a new crank. They sell for over $700 new. I believe that I am close at $1700.
Cylinder package:
1200 cylinder package already ported for low-end torque. Package comes with billet cylinder, pistons and rings, pins, bearings, clips and solid billet head for $4000.
Case and Crank work:
The cases and the crank need to be modified for this motor; the charge for this is $1000. The crank is modified so the larger piston pins will fit. The crank is also lightened. The cases have to be modified for the cylinders to fit. The cases are also epoxied.
Carburetors:
What brand carburetors and size should you choose? I know Jeff used 49mm Full Spectrum carburetors. I think these are around $1700 to $1800. A motor of this size is going to need big carburetors to feed all that horsepower. This will be one of most expensive bolt on components you will have to buy next to the TL.
Ignition system:
TL is the way to go if you are building a motor of this caliber. The stock ignition is not an option. New TL system sell for $1300 to $1500. After you get this box of parts, you have to spend hours putting it all together. Jeff had to do this assembly work of soldering all the electrical connections. How much should he charge for this service? Do it yourself and save a couple hundred of expense.
Reed valves:
Stock or after market? Jeff used after market valves.
GP800 motor package:
This is the hand made pipe, cast exhaust manifold, billet intake manifold and 6gal fiberglass gas tank. These are the items needed in order to run the 66E motor. Currently Jeff is the only one making them. Cost is $1000.
Add it all up:
Motor case with crank, bendix and starter, timing cover, and gaskets, - $1700
Cylinder package - $4000
Case and Crank work - $1000
Carburetors - $1800
Total Loss system - $1300
Reed Valves - $250
Gas power valves - $350
Pipe, exhaust manifold, billet intake manifold and gas tank - $1000
Total Motor cost - $11,400 (with no labor to put it together)
Pre Prig Ski Hull – $7500
Custom Paint Job – $2000
Turf Job - $400
Billet Handle Pole - $800
Magnum pump package - $2500
Prop for pump - $250
Miscellaneous parts as mentioned above - $2500
Labor and overhead to assemble ski so there is nothing to be done for the customer but ride - $2650
Ski total – $30,000
There is no way for me to know for sure if my numbers are correct with out asking Jeff and I am not going to do that. I can only back into them with what I know about published cost of the different components. You play around with the ones you think I have wrong. One thing we know is that they must add up to 30K.
Reducing the Cost of the ski:
Which Hull to buy? The fiberglass R.E.V. hull cost $4500 and the Pre Prig hull cost $7500 with one solid color of paint. If you want a custom paint job like the one he built expect to pay $1500 or more. There is a $3000 dollars difference between the two hulls and about 35 pounds in weight. Is 35 pounds worth $3000 more? Your choice!
Doing it yourself with used parts:
If you answered NO to the Pre Prig hull, then subtract $3000. If you went with the solid color paint job, subtract another $2,000. So can you build an R.E.V.12 for less than 30K. I contend you can do if for less than 20K. It comes down to choices and the options you choose.
Start with custom ski price - $30,000
Order a fiberglass hull - minus $3000
No custom paint - minus $2000
Assemble it yourself - minus $2650
Used parts instead of new - $1500
Lessor carburetors/different brand - minus $700
Stock reed valves – minus $250
Used TL - minus $800
Used bottom end – minus $1000
OME 155mm pump instead of Magnum - minus $2000
Total ski cost = $16,100 for doing it your self and buying used parts. 8Granted still a lot of money for a ski but one that can launch straight up out of the water.
BB motor Option:
I contend that the 1200 motor is going to be too much motor for average rider and there fore is unnecessary. You can build a some what cheaper motor called the Big Bore (BB for short). Start with the same bottom end but instead of using 1200 cylinders, buy used core cylinders and have them re-sleeved to take a bigger bore piston. Tom or “Superramjet” has done this with his ski and it is quite powerful and a handful. I believe this option would cost around $2000 verses $4000 for the top end.
I say a BB ski could be built for under 14K using a fiberglass hull. Your dream of a more powerful ski is not out of reach. (Just have to take a 2nd job and sell you’re first born)
One more thing, if you like your current ski and just want to change your motor over to the 66E platform, this can be done. Jeff makes a conversion kit to fit in a SJ hull.
Horsepower per dollar:
Jeff says his motor puts out over 220 horsepower. Using my example, the cost of that motor is $11,400. Subtract gas tank – $250. To make this illustration, I will round to $11,000. $11,000 divided by 220-horsepower = $50 spent per horsepower.
What dose the ultimate 701 motor cost on average? What is the horsepower it puts out? I don’t know the answer to this question for sure. I have been told to expect to pay $9,000 to $10,000 for a Lamey power valve stroked motor with TL, pipe and carburetors that has about 160 horsepower. $9,000 divided by 160 horsepower = $56 per horsepower. This is just an example and it illustrates a point we have to keep in mind when buying motors. Are we getting our dollars worth compared to other motor set-ups on the market? Which one hits the hardest?
That is all I have to say. I am sure some will disagree with my conclusions made here but the fact still remains that Jeff made the badest stand up on the planet thus far. Who will top it?
[B]Good job and keep it up. We need you, your ideas and products around for many years to come.
Sincerely Lakeman and Son of Lakeman.[/B]