Custom/Hybrid WDK ROK-R Build
- Thread starter 4SeasonsPower
- Start date
piratelife
Frandsen works
- Location
- In the hood wood
^^^^yep 1100 raider midshaft
- Location
- Ogden, Utah
Well managed to take out the Rok-R last night and it was a rude awakening. 
I think the ski was riding me more than I was riding it. Keep in mind this is my first AM hull and my last ski was a stock SN. Here is my initial feedback. The ski is extremely stable and responsive. It will jump right out of the water and pops very nicely off a wake. You can definately feel how short the ski is during open water starts, but as long as your putting weight forward it quickly jumps on plane. At speed it doesn't ride nose high at all. Long story short I'm very happy with the ski. I feel like its very capable. My riding on the other hand is terrible . Again keep in mind I have zero experience with aftermarket hulls so its impossible for me to say if this hull is better or worse than any of the other hulls.
I think the ski was riding me more than I was riding it. Keep in mind this is my first AM hull and my last ski was a stock SN. Here is my initial feedback. The ski is extremely stable and responsive. It will jump right out of the water and pops very nicely off a wake. You can definately feel how short the ski is during open water starts, but as long as your putting weight forward it quickly jumps on plane. At speed it doesn't ride nose high at all. Long story short I'm very happy with the ski. I feel like its very capable. My riding on the other hand is terrible . Again keep in mind I have zero experience with aftermarket hulls so its impossible for me to say if this hull is better or worse than any of the other hulls.
piratelife
Frandsen works
- Location
- In the hood wood
I'm glad you liked it. I'm extremely happy with mine aswell. Its also my first am hull aswell.
- Location
- Ogden, Utah
Just got back from the lake again and I'm already feeling more comfortable. The more aggressively you ride the better it is. Definitively fun. Only problem I had today was my tether switch failing. Curious what you guys are running with total loss? I ran this cheap tether last year when I had the setup in my Blaster, but looks like its not going to last.
Attachments
- Location
- Ogden, Utah
You're asking what lanyard people are running with total loss?
Judging by your response I'm assuming you guys aren't running lanyards?
piratelife
Frandsen works
- Location
- In the hood wood
I just turn the idle down and zip tie the SS switch
Or be responsible and use a lanyard :shrug:
piratelife
Frandsen works
- Location
- In the hood wood
Yeah your right matte I'm irresponsible. Ftw. 4 seasons do what works for you. Nice build
- Location
- Ogden, Utah
I was running the lanyard shown in an attempt to simplify my setup. The lanyard switch was acting as the on/off for the TL and then I was running a single starter button. Less bulky on the handlebars than the OEM setup and eliminates the need to run the shifty mod with the OEM switch. Obviously its failed after a year of use so it wasn't a perfect solution. That's kinda why I was asking what other guys were running. Seeing if there was a better lanyard switch than the one I had. Obviously the OEM is an option. Matt, not sure why your saying the lanyard has nothing to do with TL?
Do whatever suits you, but don't go pretending that 4 years of being lucky without the proper safety equipment mean that you're somehow responsible. It takes half a second for a throttle spring to break (had it happen personally), a tight cable to pull the throttle open, some debris in the throttle lever to hold the throttle open, or a broken pole to jam the throttle open. Think it can't happen to you because you've been doing it for 4 years? A local racer who's been on the water for well over a decade had something go wrong in a split second and his SJ went full throttle (riderless) up a bank and severely injured a kid. Last I heard, the case was still in litigation.
There are plenty of cases all the time where this happens. It isn't something strangers on the Internet come up with to scare you.
So yeah, whatever floats your boat - but calling it responsible is bull.
Good luck
There are plenty of cases all the time where this happens. It isn't something strangers on the Internet come up with to scare you.
So yeah, whatever floats your boat - but calling it responsible is bull
. Good luck
Because it has nothing to do with the TL. You'd have the same problems with an OEM ignition. I would try using an OEM style lanyard first (the Walmart ones can be of slightly different dimensions). You may have to take apart and clean the switch, too.
piratelife
Frandsen works
- Location
- In the hood wood
yep matte your right anything could happen. But in my experience in the last 18 years in the industry. I have never experiened this. Maybe I been lucky. Even with 40 plus rental boats I maintained for 6 years.Do whatever suits you, but don't go pretending that 4 years of being lucky without the proper safety equipment mean that you're somehow responsible. It takes half a second for a throttle spring to break (had it happen personally), a tight cable to pull the throttle open, some debris in the throttle lever to hold the throttle open, or a broken pole to jam the throttle open. Think it can't happen to you because you've been doing it for 4 years? A local racer who's been on the water for well over a decade had something go wrong in a split second and his SJ went full throttle (riderless) up a bank and severely injured a kid. Last I heard, the case was still in litigation.
There are plenty of cases all the time where this happens. It isn't something strangers on the Internet come up with to scare you.
So yeah, whatever floats your boat - but calling it responsible is bull
Good luck
- Location
- Ogden, Utah
I appreciate everyone's response and opinions. Lets let this one go, I don't want the thread turning ugly.
- Location
- Ogden, Utah
Kinda hard to see the misalignment in the pics but basically the chamber is pushed up by the nose rocker and inward at the bond line. You can see the small gap on the coupler where the chamber meets the manifold. Also you can see where I had to indent the tank to make it clear. Also showed how close you have to mount the tank to the engine. Hope this helps.
