- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
When I was a kid they had a raffle for one of these at our local grocery store. They had it on display for a while and I would just stand there and drool. It is where my watersports love blossomed.
WetJet 428 L/C Restoration
- Thread starter WindyCitySki.
- Start date
- Location
- Chicago
Good eye! My only fear is interchanging the parts and causing an electrical mishap. I have considered purchasing similar parts that appear to be interchangeable, but do not know if it is worth the risk.
I am glad it brings back some good memories. Even with it sitting in my driveway, I always end up getting a few people passing by that comment "I remember those!" or "I have not seen one of those in years!"
Always puts a smile on my face!
- Location
- Chicago
Went ahead and made a new gasket for the flywheel/mag cover. The original ripped in just one spot.. just my luck.
Goal this weekend will be to get the fuel leak under control and have her running on the hose for a short time. Here is the area that is giving me the issue. It seems that when it is screwed in all the way, the engine will start for a few seconds and then die. But when I loosen the screw, it will stay running but leak fuel everywhere..
Goal this weekend will be to get the fuel leak under control and have her running on the hose for a short time. Here is the area that is giving me the issue. It seems that when it is screwed in all the way, the engine will start for a few seconds and then die. But when I loosen the screw, it will stay running but leak fuel everywhere..
- Location
- Downers Grove
Is the Nippondenso 070000-0640 CDI pictured above the original cuyuna CDI with 7 wires and the replacement has only 6 wires? Does it have the same part number on the replacement? Any idea what vehicle the replacement came out of?
- Location
- Chicago
Yes, the Nippondenso 070000-0640 CDI is the original. The replacement only has 6. Not sure if it is the same part number or the vehicle the replacement came out of. Maybe the CDIs are more universal that I originally expected?
- Location
- Downers Grove
If the new CDI has a green wire and the same part number, I`m betting its an artic cat snowmobile cdi. http://www.vintagesnow.com/Arctic_Cat_files/1979.pdf
- Location
- Chicago
Unfortunately, no green wires. But I would not be surprised if I could interchange parts.
I have no problem installing a new kill-switch, but only concern is where to incorporate the new wiring and whether I should use an OPEN or CLOSED kill-switch. Here is a universal OPEN switch I found online. Would it be as simple as wiring the kill red wire to my lone red wire coming from the stator to the CDI and then the black to ground?
- Location
- Downers Grove
Do you know what that new style CDI came from?
- Location
- Chicago
Unfortunately I do not. I purchased it from a vendor that deals with Cuyuna engines in general. I'll reach out and ask.
- Location
- Chicago
While figuring out my kill-switch predicament, I started cleaning up the little things. The weather stripping around the hood was in rough shape - not surprised after 33 years. Decided to remove it and purchase a new strip with 3M backing. Here is how it is going. Trying to figure out how to remove the remaining rubber.
- Location
- Chicago
Snagged the part number. It has been a while since installing and didn't recall there being one. Took the electronics apart again today just to make sure. CDI part number is 01-143-22 with 2018 underneath it. I take it that is the year it was put together/tested?
- Location
- Downers Grove
Looks like a Kimpex snowmobile CDI. http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900016558# https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Cat...473226?hash=item5dae5fcfca:g:picAAOSwnWxfMXwe It looks like the arctic cat sleds grounded out the stator output to shut down. http://www.vintagesnow.com/Arctic_Cat_files/1977.pdf
- Location
- Minnesota
These are pretty cool! My friend found one in a basement of a house that was getting torn down on Lake Minnetonka. This was probably like 8 years ago. Pretty funny and 100% original couldn't of had more then 10 hours on it.
- Location
- Chicago
Little bit of an update:
I think I got the wiring under control and should have the OEM lanyard/kill-switch back in order by the weekend! I purchased some waterproof butt splice wire connectors and will tackle the wiring after the holiday.
I also got tired of messing around with the fuel leak on the stock carburetor... decided to purchase an upgraded Mikuni SBN 38 as Quinc suggested. So much for the rebuild kit I bought for the original carb.
@Quinc - I might need some help with the new carb adjustment.
Photos will be in order as parts arrive!
I think I got the wiring under control and should have the OEM lanyard/kill-switch back in order by the weekend! I purchased some waterproof butt splice wire connectors and will tackle the wiring after the holiday.
I also got tired of messing around with the fuel leak on the stock carburetor... decided to purchase an upgraded Mikuni SBN 38 as Quinc suggested. So much for the rebuild kit I bought for the original carb.
@Quinc - I might need some help with the new carb adjustment.
Photos will be in order as parts arrive!
- Location
- Chicago
Hope everyone had a great and relaxing holiday! Here is my post-holiday update:
Pulled a rookie mistake and purchased the wrong gauge wire for the kill-switch.. The wire running through the kill-switch circuit is 14 AWG - I purchased 16 AWG.. Since a current will constantly be running through this circuit, I would feel better with both wires being the same gauge. So my electrical work is put on hold.
Since my last update, the new Mikuni SBN 38 arrived. This carburetor is gorgeous. Here are some photos comparing the new with the old.
My next issue is the throttle cable. Unfortunately it does not seem that I can simply change the old with the new without some adjustment. The throttle cable itself has a metal "sleeve" at the end which helps secure it on the old carburetor. In addition, there is no independent cable stop. Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?
Here is a side-by-side with the throttle cable to visualize what I am trying to explain. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Outside of the carburetor, I also purchased a primer setup to replace the existing choke cable/line and to be able to integrate into the new carburetor. Decided to go with an unlabeled plunger to try and keep the OEM look. I plan to take a Dremel to the opening to enlarge it for the new line.
Lastly, I went ahead and purchased a fiberglass oxidation removal kit from Meguire's to try and restore the body. Once I get it cleaned up, I will be able to pinpoint where most of the gel-coat will need to be patched or fixed.
As always, comments, suggestions, tips or tricks are always welcome!
Pulled a rookie mistake and purchased the wrong gauge wire for the kill-switch.. The wire running through the kill-switch circuit is 14 AWG - I purchased 16 AWG.. Since a current will constantly be running through this circuit, I would feel better with both wires being the same gauge. So my electrical work is put on hold.
Since my last update, the new Mikuni SBN 38 arrived. This carburetor is gorgeous. Here are some photos comparing the new with the old.
My next issue is the throttle cable. Unfortunately it does not seem that I can simply change the old with the new without some adjustment. The throttle cable itself has a metal "sleeve" at the end which helps secure it on the old carburetor. In addition, there is no independent cable stop. Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?
Here is a side-by-side with the throttle cable to visualize what I am trying to explain. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Outside of the carburetor, I also purchased a primer setup to replace the existing choke cable/line and to be able to integrate into the new carburetor. Decided to go with an unlabeled plunger to try and keep the OEM look. I plan to take a Dremel to the opening to enlarge it for the new line.
Lastly, I went ahead and purchased a fiberglass oxidation removal kit from Meguire's to try and restore the body. Once I get it cleaned up, I will be able to pinpoint where most of the gel-coat will need to be patched or fixed.
As always, comments, suggestions, tips or tricks are always welcome!
- Location
- Downers Grove
I usually use a step drill bit to enlarge holes like that. It`s hard for me to keep them round with the dremel. The throttle cable looks interesting, maybe swap a yamaha / kawasaki / later model wet-jet cable in, or build your own cable?
- Location
- Chicago
Thanks for the tip! That sounds like it would be a lot more accurate. As far as the throttle cable, I think it might just be a matter of finding a cable stop that would fit. Here is a photo from Quinc's thread (hope that is alright Quinc). From what I remember, he used the OEM throttle cable. Maybe I just need to widen the inlet in which the cable rests? I circled the attachment point in his photo.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
can you use the arm off the old carb and put it on the new carb?
- Location
- Chicago
Unfortunately, I don't think so. You wouldn't happen to remember how you attached yours would you?
- Location
- Chicago
I have a feeling I might need to change the throttle cable for the new carb. Here are some photos of my current cable/situation. Any chance anyone recognizes a similar throttle cable that would work? I have no experience with throttle cables..
Looking inside the steering column.
Looking inside the steering column.
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