- Location
- Charlotte NC
hmmm, yours also does not say anything about running a jet in the filter..... how long ago did you buy yours?
what temp are you running your rrp pipe at???
- Thread starter jo5hi3
- Start date
hmmm, yours also does not say anything about running a jet in the filter..... how long ago did you buy yours?
- Location
- Saskatoon,SK
No jet in my filter, got it from TCFREERIDE around June.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Which is the newest RRP documentation? They are calling out different jets in the install sheet
- Location
- Wasaga Beach
I just got mine 2 weeks ago an there is a jet in the filter.
- Location
- Charlotte NC
maybe you got the older version and they have done more r&d since then. Just odd that they both say something different. Did yours come with 2 different spray bars or just the one long one?
- Location
- Saskatoon,SK
Just one in mine.
- Location
- Charlotte NC
thats all i got. My buddy let me borrow his shorter spray bar, it has a slit in the side instead of just being open on the bottom. I plan to play around with all this a little bit.
speedysprocket
Alex
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
If you've got a drill press, small vice to mount on it, and patience, I've made my own spray bars because I can't stand to pay what the big names ask... And I finish it off with an angled slit using a dremel tool...
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
I got one of the first, and it looks like I need to update mine now lol...
I'm just about to install my rrp pipe, little unsure which way I'm supposed to mount the waterbox?
Rrp instructions picture it one way, then all the pics I've seen of water boxes installed on skis its the opposite way around?
(Going buy position of the fitting on top)
Rrp instructions picture it one way, then all the pics I've seen of water boxes installed on skis its the opposite way around?
(Going buy position of the fitting on top)
Attachments
Water exits the box via the outlet pipe with the upwards angle in it.... Also If you put Eva block under the box, it will help with the possibility of water back flowing into your engine at certain times.
Edit: also water fitting on top is closest to your outlet pipe. Instructions show box installed backwards
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- Location
- Wasaga Beach
I'm in the process of installing mine too. I called Jose of RRP and asked him the same question. He said "RRP installs them as pictured in the instructions. However, they can be mounted either way." I mounted mine with the water fitting closest to the gas tank because it worked better with my carbs and, in that orientation the internals of the waterbox matched the configuration of the internals of my Powerfactor.
I'am not doubting @sneds, it's just the first I've heard of this so I'am wondering.
The instructions have the box oriantation both ways depending on which page you look at. Which page was Jose refering too?
If you reverse the box how's the water to exit the box ? Does it have to rise as high as the pipes outlet to start exiting the box outlet? That would seem to make water back flowing into the engine even worse.
I cut my box open here's a pic.
- Location
- Wasaga Beach
@Harbor, I totally agree with you, which is why I mounted mine the way I did. I'm just relaying the info I was given.
To answer your question, I sent Jose a picture from the instructions where the water inlet is away from the gas tank, and one from the X where the water fitting is closest to the gas tank (same 2 pictures brad95 posted).
To answer your question, I sent Jose a picture from the instructions where the water inlet is away from the gas tank, and one from the X where the water fitting is closest to the gas tank (same 2 pictures brad95 posted).
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- Location
- Wasaga Beach
I'm not sure I'm following you, but the 2 orientations I'm referring to are the in the two pictures brad95 posted (hope that helps). I share your concerns. The orientation in the RRP instructions that brad95 posted doesn't seem logical and, I don't think I would recommend it. I was just passing on what was said to me.
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- Location
- Charlotte NC
masterblaster
X-H2
later models of the rrp came with 2 jets,the first controls constant pressure for rpm the second sprays amount of water for given water temp. I would guess that hiro tuned this pipe with 110 jet in 70 something deg water,but at any rate diff water temps,diff port timing,pump size and prop,ign timing,especially cooling size fittings and water pressure based on size of restrictors or over board pissers and other parameters all go into finding the correct jet to make this pipe hit for perfect for a given setup.
I went through all kinds of things just to see what it would change in power with a couple diff skis and motors,to get a better feel for it. 2 diff 900 ish setups,10 mill and SS with a 148 pump and a mid 900ish 8 mill with a 145 pump. all required much diff jet to get the same result. when the pfp came out it didnt use a wb,and lacked pressure and low end response as a dry pipe,so i tried the rrp since its tunable wetpipe without wb just to see,got expected result,loud as hell and very late hit with many diff jets since little back pressure.Sounds like a busa wtfo. running the wb with enough water flow using a jetworks valve and 2.5 seat to fill it with a constant bit of water in the bottom helps increase pressure and thusly low end response power. drying it out didnt find extra power,just noise.
In 70 ish water a jet smaller than 80 started to break down the thin set resin encapsulating the rrp sticker,the pipe loses power and responce at this temp anyway,but didnt damage pipe.Ive found that 80 jet works great in 70ish water if you have high water pressure supplied,90 to 100 jet works better with lower water pressures. Ive done experimenting with better made injectors with a custom cut angled slit facing into camber.Im sure the exhauslt breaks up the flow of the stock one,but its a needle stream coming straight down,this really seems to help low end response,that said i didnt do back to back tests to verify.I think cost may have come into play but who knows? IVe not had time to change jets for colder water tuning,dont ride much in winter anymore.I have just put 2.5 seats in pissers with polyurethane sealant,drill them out a little bigger each month to keep motor temp in range. every time i drill them larger and pressure drops,and water is warmer in ocean,pipe makes more power to where i jetted it last yr in middle summer. Alot of guys dont realize how important water temps and pressures are in a ski using a water injected pipe like rrp or bpipe. can go from a dog to a ripper with just water change.good luck doing that with a pfp dry pipe without changing umpteen things in pump,prop,reduction nozzle,ect ect
I went through all kinds of things just to see what it would change in power with a couple diff skis and motors,to get a better feel for it. 2 diff 900 ish setups,10 mill and SS with a 148 pump and a mid 900ish 8 mill with a 145 pump. all required much diff jet to get the same result. when the pfp came out it didnt use a wb,and lacked pressure and low end response as a dry pipe,so i tried the rrp since its tunable wetpipe without wb just to see,got expected result,loud as hell and very late hit with many diff jets since little back pressure.Sounds like a busa wtfo. running the wb with enough water flow using a jetworks valve and 2.5 seat to fill it with a constant bit of water in the bottom helps increase pressure and thusly low end response power. drying it out didnt find extra power,just noise.
In 70 ish water a jet smaller than 80 started to break down the thin set resin encapsulating the rrp sticker,the pipe loses power and responce at this temp anyway,but didnt damage pipe.Ive found that 80 jet works great in 70ish water if you have high water pressure supplied,90 to 100 jet works better with lower water pressures. Ive done experimenting with better made injectors with a custom cut angled slit facing into camber.Im sure the exhauslt breaks up the flow of the stock one,but its a needle stream coming straight down,this really seems to help low end response,that said i didnt do back to back tests to verify.I think cost may have come into play but who knows? IVe not had time to change jets for colder water tuning,dont ride much in winter anymore.I have just put 2.5 seats in pissers with polyurethane sealant,drill them out a little bigger each month to keep motor temp in range. every time i drill them larger and pressure drops,and water is warmer in ocean,pipe makes more power to where i jetted it last yr in middle summer. Alot of guys dont realize how important water temps and pressures are in a ski using a water injected pipe like rrp or bpipe. can go from a dog to a ripper with just water change.good luck doing that with a pfp dry pipe without changing umpteen things in pump,prop,reduction nozzle,ect ect
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
When installing the chamber on the RRP exhaust should the chamber be pushed all the way into the coupler so that it is flush with the exhaust manifold or should there be a gap between the flange on the manifold and the flange on the chamber?