what temp are you running your rrp pipe at???

Some good info there.

Can we start a bit of a "list your setup" with regards to your :

motor/pump combo, the water temp your tunned for, the restrictors (in pissers/water feeds and waterbox) jet sizes and spray bars your running and the difference you have found from changing each?

Obviously everyone's set up is differnent but it would give people new to the rrp pipe (me) a good indication where to start making changes and what difference it should be making?
 
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sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
One thing I cannot stand about this pipe is the lack of tech support avail from other users and the manufacturer.
I took off a PFP to try the RRP (luckily it cost me nothing but time to try). With RRP recommended jets I was not impressed at all with the performance. Slightly better hit than PFP on bottom (VERY SLIGHT) not as good of a mid range or mid/top. So................ more tuning needed obviously? Start reducing water and increasing chamber temp I ASSUME? Some say the nice thing is the RRP is easily tunable, the downside is it will need to be as water temp seems to drastically change your tuning. The PFP run as dry seems way more even killed even in drastic water temp changes a quick twist of the fcv and go on really and rarely do I even do that.
I think the RRP can be a good alternative if the mfr would put out a tuning guide based on different water temps, motor sizes and a variety of jet setting suggestions for various conditions.
Anotherwords, do not let chamber exceed _______ degrees, optimum operating temp ________ degrees for chamber and ______ degrees for waterbox. Jets recommended to carry for tuning lows _______ thru highest _______. Its as if they are selling a product they have yet to properly engineer or understand. PFP was the same way at first but its been out long enough for this info to be avail from them IMO. Simple info like MAX chamber temp and optimal chamber temp would be very helpful, we don't even know what the resin in these pipes can withstand.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
One thing I cannot stand about this pipe is the lack of tech support avail from other users and the manufacturer.
I took off a PFP to try the RRP (luckily it cost me nothing but time to try). With RRP recommended jets I was not impressed at all with the performance. Slightly better hit than PFP on bottom (VERY SLIGHT) not as good of a mid range or mid/top. So................ more tuning needed obviously? Start reducing water and increasing chamber temp I ASSUME? Some say the nice thing is the RRP is easily tunable, the downside is it will need to be as water temp seems to drastically change your tuning. The PFP run as dry seems way more even killed even in drastic water temp changes a quick twist of the fcv and go on really and rarely do I even do that.
I think the RRP can be a good alternative if the mfr would put out a tuning guide based on different water temps, motor sizes and a variety of jet setting suggestions for various conditions.
Anotherwords, do not let chamber exceed _______ degrees, optimum operating temp ________ degrees for chamber and ______ degrees for waterbox. Jets recommended to carry for tuning lows _______ thru highest _______. Its as if they are selling a product they have yet to properly engineer or understand. PFP was the same way at first but its been out long enough for this info to be avail from them IMO. Simple info like MAX chamber temp and optimal chamber temp would be very helpful, we don't even know what the resin in these pipes can withstand.

100% agree with every aspect of this. They arnt going to tell you any info that way they dont have to warranty a melted pipe. They can just say you ran it to hot. Well no poop lol
 
One thing I cannot stand about this pipe is the lack of tech support avail from other users and the manufacturer.
I took off a PFP to try the RRP (luckily it cost me nothing but time to try). With RRP recommended jets I was not impressed at all with the performance. Slightly better hit than PFP on bottom (VERY SLIGHT) not as good of a mid range or mid/top. So................ more tuning needed obviously? Start reducing water and increasing chamber temp I ASSUME? Some say the nice thing is the RRP is easily tunable, the downside is it will need to be as water temp seems to drastically change your tuning. The PFP run as dry seems way more even killed even in drastic water temp changes a quick twist of the fcv and go on really and rarely do I even do that.
I think the RRP can be a good alternative if the mfr would put out a tuning guide based on different water temps, motor sizes and a variety of jet setting suggestions for various conditions.
Anotherwords, do not let chamber exceed _______ degrees, optimum operating temp ________ degrees for chamber and ______ degrees for waterbox. Jets recommended to carry for tuning lows _______ thru highest _______. Its as if they are selling a product they have yet to properly engineer or understand. PFP was the same way at first but its been out long enough for this info to be avail from them IMO. Simple info like MAX chamber temp and optimal chamber temp would be very helpful, we don't even know what the resin in these pipes can withstand.

You're right, lack of info. What I got was that the pipe was tuned by hiro and that it works perfect with the suggested jets. I found this wrong, it doesn't make near the power that it does once you get the temps up. I have played with jets from 110 all the way down to 60 in the spray bar, but i found with my setup that 120 in the filter and 100 in the spray bar works best. Its not hard to change the jets out and play around with. But it is not going to pull as hard as a pfp on the top, but it will hit a lot harder on the bottom.
 
we have found that running 950ish motors of diff types,the 120 filter,90 to 100 sprayer for summer water temps works best also,Id still like to try a sprayer with a small slit than the straight and open ended style. Id also like to try a mechanical reverse pressure valve that shuts the water off in up top rpms, it would allow the pipe to pull harder up top,The way most of us use the pipe,it would still run cool enough. In our tests,once we got down to 70 jet,resin on outside started to blister close to coupler,and low end power was lacking. id also like to try some diff waterboxes with the rrp pipe,anyone else try any of these things,ive been to busy to mess with pipe tuning
The pfp is much less tunable using the fcv
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
One thing I cannot stand about this pipe is the lack of tech support avail from other users and the manufacturer.
I took off a PFP to try the RRP (luckily it cost me nothing but time to try). With RRP recommended jets I was not impressed at all with the performance. Slightly better hit than PFP on bottom (VERY SLIGHT) not as good of a mid range or mid/top. So................ more tuning needed obviously? Start reducing water and increasing chamber temp I ASSUME? Some say the nice thing is the RRP is easily tunable, the downside is it will need to be as water temp seems to drastically change your tuning. The PFP run as dry seems way more even killed even in drastic water temp changes a quick twist of the fcv and go on really and rarely do I even do that.
I think the RRP can be a good alternative if the mfr would put out a tuning guide based on different water temps, motor sizes and a variety of jet setting suggestions for various conditions.
Anotherwords, do not let chamber exceed _______ degrees, optimum operating temp ________ degrees for chamber and ______ degrees for waterbox. Jets recommended to carry for tuning lows _______ thru highest _______. Its as if they are selling a product they have yet to properly engineer or understand. PFP was the same way at first but its been out long enough for this info to be avail from them IMO. Simple info like MAX chamber temp and optimal chamber temp would be very helpful, we don't even know what the resin in these pipes can withstand.
update on latest test:

I am running a dedicated line to the spray bars (in from pump at 1/2", reduced at bulkhead to 3/8") total of 3 incoming water lines so I can do this.
3/8" into a flow control valve, then to a 3/8" PFP filter, then a 3/8" into 2 1/4" lines, one to head pipe with now 77.5 jet and one to waterbox with 110 jet, no jets in filters at all. IT hits WAY harder and chamber is still only at 135 degrees at hottest point. Water temp is about 78 degrees yesterday when testing . will install 60jet and try this weekend I have some slit spray bars to try as well. Will keep this updated best I can
 
update on latest test:

I am running a dedicated line to the spray bars (in from pump at 1/2", reduced at bulkhead to 3/8") total of 3 incoming water lines so I can do this.
3/8" into a flow control valve, then to a 3/8" PFP filter, then a 3/8" into 2 1/4" lines, one to head pipe with now 77.5 jet and one to waterbox with 110 jet, no jets in filters at all. IT hits WAY harder and chamber is still only at 135 degrees at hottest point. Water temp is about 78 degrees yesterday when testing . will install 60jet and try this weekend I have some slit spray bars to try as well. Will keep this updated best I can

tap a fuel filter and add a jet to the exit side of it, this makes the incoming water pressure more consistent and not a pulse. I also dont run a jet at the water box, just have the flow control valve open maybe 1/16 of a turn.
 
update on latest test:

I am running a dedicated line to the spray bars (in from pump at 1/2", reduced at bulkhead to 3/8") total of 3 incoming water lines so I can do this.
3/8" into a flow control valve, then to a 3/8" PFP filter, then a 3/8" into 2 1/4" lines, one to head pipe with now 77.5 jet and one to waterbox with 110 jet, no jets in filters at all. IT hits WAY harder and chamber is still only at 135 degrees at hottest point. Water temp is about 78 degrees yesterday when testing . will install 60jet and try this weekend I have some slit spray bars to try as well. Will keep this updated best I can
what did you have in your prev setup that makes you think this feels better? a jet in the wb is prolly going to make it run to dry and decrease back pressure significantly
 
what did you have in your prev setup that makes you think this feels better? a jet in the wb is prolly going to make it run to dry and decrease back pressure significantly

My box is super super dry. I have not actually checked if the flow control valve flows at all, but it is almost closed. I also have a 2.3 seat in the water line running to the box. But running mine that dry did not affect performance at all.
 
your wb is in backwards or too low or your exh tube angle is too straight. not that you want the wb slam full but with just a fcv at the right setting,I have just enough water in my box to drown the lower baffle when at a good amount of throttle,no water at idle,just something to try,you might be surprised. tell me your prev setup this one is doing so much better than. With nothing to compare to its difficult to say why?
 
im running a dasa 1000, 49 full specs, epic, 148 pump. Ran the same setup last year except b pipe with tnt chamber. Went way up on prop pitch this year also
 
what i meant was specifically what water setup did you run with the rrp before,that makes you say this water setup hits way harder. we have a ski running that same setup with a msd enhan hitting very hard with diff water settings
 
what i meant was specifically what water setup did you run with the rrp before,that makes you say this water setup hits way harder. we have a ski running that same setup with a msd enhan hitting very hard with diff water settings

I'm almost certain that you have me confused with the dude from tn.....
 
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