what temp are you running your rrp pipe at???

[masterblaster]

later models of the rrp came with 2 jets,the first controls constant pressure for rpm the second sprays amount of water for given water temp. I would guess that hiro tuned this pipe with 110 jet in 70 something deg water,but at any rate diff water temps,diff port timing,pump size and prop,ign timing,especially cooling size fittings and water pressure based on size of restrictors or over board pissers and other parameters all go into finding the correct jet to make this pipe hit for perfect for a given setup.

I went through all kinds of things just to see what it would change in power with a couple diff skis and motors,to get a better feel for it. 2 diff 900 ish setups,10 mill and SS with a 148 pump and a mid 900ish 8 mill with a 145 pump. all required much diff jet to get the same result. when the pfp came out it didnt use a wb,and lacked pressure and low end response as a dry pipe,so i tried the rrp since its tunable wetpipe without wb just to see,got expected result,loud as hell and very late hit with many diff jets since little back pressure.Sounds like a busa wtfo. running the wb with enough water flow using a jetworks valve and 2.5 seat to fill it with a constant bit of water in the bottom helps increase pressure and thusly low end response power. drying it out didnt find extra power,just noise.

In 70 ish water a jet smaller than 80 started to break down the thin set resin encapsulating the rrp sticker,the pipe loses power and responce at this temp anyway,but didnt damage pipe.Ive found that 80 jet works great in 70ish water if you have high water pressure supplied,90 to 100 jet works better with lower water pressures. Ive done experimenting with better made injectors with a custom cut angled slit facing into camber.Im sure the exhauslt breaks up the flow of the stock one,but its a needle stream coming straight down,this really seems to help low end response,that said i didnt do back to back tests to verify.I think cost may have come into play but who knows? IVe not had time to change jets for colder water tuning,dont ride much in winter anymore.I have just put 2.5 seats in pissers with polyurethane sealant,drill them out a little bigger each month to keep motor temp in range. every time i drill them larger and pressure drops,and water is warmer in ocean,pipe makes more power to where i jetted it last yr in middle summer. Alot of guys dont realize how important water temps and pressures are in a ski using a water injected pipe like rrp or bpipe. can go from a dog to a ripper with just water change.good luck doing that with a pfp dry pipe without changing umpteen things in pump,prop,reduction nozzle,ect ect

umm this isnt detailed enough for you,ive yet to see this much detail in any other post. I will get some time sooner or later to do some back to back testing on this pipe with diff style injectors and pressures... you still evade sharing your prev water setup that your current one is besting.....

 

[jo5hi3]

"but at any rate diff water temps,diff port timing,pump size and prop,ign timing,especially cooling size fittings and water pressure based on size of restrictors or over board pissers and other parameters all go into finding the correct jet to make this pipe hit for perfect for a given setup."
Direct quote from you....

thats double the size motor? 950ish wouldnt mean we have a 1900 cc. What is the title of this thread again? Engine size, porting, carbs, timing, fuel are not mentioned ?

Then we have this.....

You're worse than a women. Pick your argument and stick with it.

 

[jo5hi3]

Either way I'm done with your useless info. Guess I'll see you at the next freeride....maybe then you will have a running ski, or maybe not. I always love traveling 5 hours to sit on a hot beach and watch others ride.....

 

[masterblaster]

lol yea totally useless. that post wasnt about water pressure,wb,temps,jets,ect...what was i thinking? Its been fun listening to you instagate,say hello to sailer boy for me.
I rode all i needed to that weekend,id do the same for my boys

 

[jo5hi3]

See, a few posts back you made it pretty clear that porting, timing, carbs, etc were not the title of the thread. But you talked about that all playing a factor. The sailer boy comment was unnecessary, this thread clearly isn't about him. But people that take other peoples info and spew it as their own, thats a whole different story. Something you are known for doing.

 

[jo5hi3]

Lets get this thread back on topic. Pipe temp...Whats yours?

 

[Harbor]

My pipe is at 133 now....... Sorry if the rest if this isn't exactly on topic. To get my engine warmer I'm having to run restricters. Twice now it blew that thick RRP silicone cooling line off the barbed T fittings. So now iam switching to translucent hose so it can clamp tighter. I have (3) 4mm restricters, 2 in the pisser's and one at the water box. Box temp 105, but all three need to drop to 2mm to get engine temp in operating range. Right now I have the spray bar feed off the lower 1/2 fitting in the manifold. The instructions call for it to be feed off the upper 3/8 fitting so iam switching the too. Water temps are around 60 to 65, after I get the engine temp correct I can go back and retune the pipe

Been wondering since I have to restrict so much if it wouldn't be better to run a parallel cooling system of some sort. One line Y'd to feed both manifold fittings and the other inline from pump take care of the water box and spray bar.

 

[jo5hi3]

My pipe is at 133 now....... Sorry if the rest if this isn't exactly on topic. To get my engine warmer I'm having to run restricters. Twice now it blew that thick RRP silicone cooling line off the barbed T fittings. So now iam switching to translucent hose so it can clamp tighter. I have (3) 4mm restricters, 2 in the pisser's and one at the water box. Box temp 105, but all three need to drop to 2mm to get engine temp in operating range. Right now I have the spray bar feed off the lower 1/2 fitting in the manifold. The instructions call for it to be feed off the upper 3/8 fitting so iam switching the too. Water temps are around 60 to 65, after I get the engine temp correct I can go back and retune the pipe

Been wondering since I have to restrict so much if it wouldn't be better to run a parallel cooling system of some sort. One line Y'd to feed both manifold fittings and the other inline from pump take care of the water box and spray bar.

A dedicated line to the pipe and box would make it easier to tune. Plus your engine would probably run a little cooler since your not flowing as much water to it. Your water temps are pretty chilly already, lakes around here are still way warm.

 

[masterblaster]

speaking of spew back. Thats the most retarded mindset ive ever heard,especially right after saying "but the point of a forum is to share info, so we can have our skis running as good as possible. Sharing bits of info will not help anyone????????? The only people who have issue with it are a few select chronies that share bits and want you to come to them to pay for the rest of tune info and praise them online for figuring it out for you. Show me where the bandwagon info all over here has quotes behind it,on where they heard it first. Info from books,phone calls to manufactures,back to back testing,other forums ect ect,should all be content credited eh? ridiculousness.

Harbor,the way hiro setup cooling is very sim to dedicated lines,as the water going to the pipe and box are not preheated from cylinder,but if you clog one line,it wont smoke your motor or pipe and couplers.Going from warm to cold waters,does change the tune huge on these pipes though.maybe worth the risk of dedicated cooling. every time you restrict motor more,pressure goes up in pipe water fittings a bit. but if your motor wont get up to temp your current carb jetting wont work well among other things,so your chasing your tail trying to get it all right. I didnt change my pipe jets in later season colder water last yr,cause I dont ride that often in cold,I changed my motor restrictions many times though.This motor is very water temp sensitive,some more than others. But once water got back to norm high 70s low 80s and motor restrictions removed,pipe made way more power,back to initial tune. btw,if you want to talk pipe temp on a carbon water injected pipe used for freeride you have so many variables its not funny. race boat running wide open is one thing,but a ski blipping around is another,how long sustained run,how long till temp is taken,where on pipe is temp taken,temp gun accuracy,on and on. approx water temp, jet size and flow to wb are more sustainable data

 

[jo5hi3]

You give credit where its due. Clearly you have done all the testing and spent all the time and money to make the most power. Why aren't you out there competing at finals?

 

[masterblaster]

We ride surf buddy.flatwater seems to promote sensitivities... Wheres all this credit listed on every other post here? Dont get your tampon string caught up in your taint over it.

 

[jo5hi3]

You ride surf like this???? I wouldn't take that to the neighborhood pond.

 

[Big Kahuna]

what did you have in your prev setup that makes you think this feels better? a jet in the wb is prolly going to make it run to dry and decrease back pressure significantly

I believe Brian started with the suggested jetting. Then he made changes. He felt they were better. That was his baseline.

 

[Ducky]

You ride surf like this???? I wouldn't take that to the neighborhood pond.

But those water fittings on the head are sweet bro!

 

[jo5hi3]

But those water fittings on the head are sweet bro!

I just want to know where I can get one of those sweet gas tanks. I'm sure it fits in every hull and will clear any pipe. haha

 

[Harbor]

You ride surf like this???? I wouldn't take that to the neighborhood pond.

This is what an EXPERTS ski looks like, Hmm!

 

[jo5hi3]

This is what an EXPERTS ski looks like, Hmm!

I have been doing it wrong all these years..... damn

 

[Big Kahuna]

You ride surf like this???? I wouldn't take that to the neighborhood pond.

Holy Crap.

 

[masterblaster]

No base line givin in the opening post,he mentions somewhere along the line he tried a 60 jet,So yea I guess what ever he tried after that would have to be better! no mention of pre jet or wb jet or fcv setting ..This tank was no looker but for a temporary tank It was far less hassle than this one. thats pretty telling that you have a picture of it to talk smack though... your better off playing over at your neighborhood pond.
the indoctrination flows deep in you doesnt it......

 

[Big Kahuna]

No base line givin in the opening post,he mentions somewhere along the line he tried a 60 jet,So yea I guess what ever he tried after that would have to be better! no mention of pre jet or wb jet or fcv setting ..This tank was no looker but for a temporary tank It was far less hassle than this one. thats pretty telling that you have a picture of it to talk smack though... your better off playing over at your neighborhood pond.
the indoctrination flows deep in you doesnt it......

"With RRP recommended jets I was not impressed at all with the performance" This is pretty plain and simple to understand....... I understood what he meant.... See Below for quote from both his post. He has not updated since he said he "Will install 60 jet and try" He never said he tried a 60 jet.

“One thing I cannot stand about this pipe is the lack of tech support avail from other users and the manufacturer.
I took off a PFP to try the RRP (luckily it cost me nothing but time to try). With RRP recommended jets I was not impressed at all with the performance. Slightly better hit than PFP on bottom (VERY SLIGHT) not as good of a mid range or mid/top. So................ more tuning needed obviously? Start reducing water and increasing chamber temp I ASSUME? Some say the nice thing is the RRP is easily tunable, the downside is it will need to be as water temp seems to drastically change your tuning. The PFP run as dry seems way more even killed even in drastic water temp changes a quick twist of the fcv and go on really and rarely do I even do that.
I think the RRP can be a good alternative if the mfr would put out a tuning guide based on different water temps, motor sizes and a variety of jet setting suggestions for various conditions.
Anotherwords, do not let chamber exceed _______ degrees, optimum operating temp ________ degrees for chamber and ______ degrees for waterbox. Jets recommended to carry for tuning lows _______ thru highest _______. Its as if they are selling a product they have yet to properly engineer or understand. PFP was the same way at first but its been out long enough for this info to be avail from them IMO. Simple info like MAX chamber temp and optimal chamber temp would be very helpful, we don't even know what the resin in these pipes can withstand.

update on latest test:

I am running a dedicated line to the spray bars (in from pump at 1/2", reduced at bulkhead to 3/8") total of 3 incoming water lines so I can do this.
3/8" into a flow control valve, then to a 3/8" PFP filter, then a 3/8" into 2 1/4" lines, one to head pipe with now 77.5 jet and one to waterbox with 110 jet, no jets in filters at all. IT hits WAY harder and chamber is still only at 135 degrees at hottest point. Water temp is about 78 degrees yesterday when testing . will install 60jet and try this weekend I have some slit spray bars to try as well. Will keep this updated best I can?