what temp are you running your rrp pipe at???

jo5hi3

jo5hi3

Location
Charlotte NC
masterblaster said:
ride off eh. Considering I have a stock stroke crank and pump fuel setup,id laugh pretty hard if he lost. Let me put a 10 mill back in with some ms109 domes and tune,any knucklebuck tune makes stupid power on that setup
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So you're saying that the tpe doesn't make as much power as a dasa 10mill. I'm running pump fuel, what would make you think any different? I still can't get over the fact that you have 2 different fuel filters, must be a secret. hahaha
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
I have no idea what fuel you run.Alot of flatwater guys run race fuels. Generally speaking a good 10 mill dasa or other wise ported and built by the right person should be a beast. Ive never been that impressed with any SS motor,That said,this one with everything thrown at it possible,does pretty well,further porting,pv changes,rrp pipe,TL with high timing,fs49 carbs in light carbon hull. I still much prefer a 10 mill to work with for the seat of pants dyno lol

getting out your microscope for fuel filters would reveal they are the same,diff color insert. lol
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
Im sorry but i dont think asking for previous water settings results from someone testing from 60 to 110 is really confidential info, Ive given 2x more detail in multiple posts about precisely what we have tried with this setup. I have no doubt it will run fine at CB The whole build has been issue free and reliable other than one broken ground wire just outside the tl grommet.
 
jo5hi3

jo5hi3

Location
Charlotte NC
I'm still trying to figure out how you know exactly how much water is inside your water box. I know you can't fit your giant head down there while the ski is running.
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
I adjust the fcv disconnected on end going to wb in the hull dumping into a sim sized container and run the ski against the dock to get the approx flow I want at given rpm. The sound the wb makes at diff settings is apparent. Its not a precise science but it works better than not knowing at all if fcv is flowing. The same method ive used in a mechanical water injection,but the reverse,water flows until pressure closes the spring at given pressure/rpm. Ive tested higher timing but get best performance around 33 with this motor and pipe
I have no issue sharing settings or methods,I dont try to make money off guys doing it. Just toys for fun really. I was just teasing you about a 60 jet when your posts got less than friendly. then going tit for tat.Seeing how your posts changed drastically from fri to mon at post 59 Im filling in the blanks for the weekend.We get back what we put into things.Trying to learn a bit and pass along some knowledge is all.Secrets in this hobby have no place any longer imho. Can we get back to a positive vibe so maybe we can get some positive return and accomplish something actually worth doing. sorry If I came across any other way.
 
sjetrider

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Location
in the 615 (Nashville)
masterblaster said:
No base line givin in the opening post,he mentions somewhere along the line he tried a 60 jet,So yea I guess what ever he tried after that would have to be better! no mention of pre jet or wb jet or fcv setting ..This tank was no looker but for a temporary tank It was far less hassle than this one. thats pretty telling that you have a picture of it to talk smack though... your better off playing over at your neighborhood pond.
the indoctrination flows deep in you doesnt it......
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Sorry I bailed on the thread, well, kinda sorry, it took a lil turn from initial intension there so glad I missed that LOL.

I started with RRP recommended jetting (110 or 105 in both lines). with a dedicated line that was ridiculously lacking any power. So I added flow control valve to incoming dedicated 3/8" line and dropped the jetting down in increments until I arrived at a 77.5 into mnfld and 110 in waterbox (reducing waterbox jet hindered crispness at bottom end) so I stayed at 110. I will try larger jets in it this weekend. water temp is about 70 degrees right now.
pipe chamber 2 " off headpipe 135 degrees and waterbox entrance side near intake was 115 degrees, at exit it was at 105 degrees all after riding hard and some cruising combined for about 1.5 gals straight. I see talk of motor temp, well I don't know optimum motor temp so all I can do is tell you all what mine is when its running its best when using this pipe. Agaim (950 ish cc) nah just kidding 900cc billet cyl , 7 port dasa w/ 225 compression on 110 oct fuel , total loss at 32 degrees advanced the cyl temps are as below.
front of cyl 149
back of cyl 152
between cyl headpipe side 135
between cyl carb side 165
all measured half way down the cyl

after some reading between the hate on here I think I will look for further improvements via
trying a jet in filter (don't see the point but gonna try)
increasing water to waterbox (seems crazy but I did notice improvements over smaller jets when I tried them)
if there is anything else y'all think may help I am all eyes.

hope the above helps someone.

keep in mind I am running a dedicated line, the 105 suggested jet may be ok when sharing lines but really I do not see haw you can keep it consistant enough when sharing lines. Watch your bypasses and you can see drastic and rapid changes in pressure throughout rpm ranges and between the 2 due to longer routing and so forth of the water lines and you can use flow control on dedicated line to reduce and or increase pressure evenly IMO
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
sjrider..now thats a awesome informative post.The 110 and 120 jets provided with the rrp both go in the same line,one in back of the filter to balance the pressures you were just talking about from low to high rpm.the other one obviously in the spray bar. Try removing your jet to the water box and just use a fcv very close to the inlet at the box. Try running your dedicated line removed so you can see its pressure while running ski up against a dock in the water. Make adjustments to restricters,drill out 3/8ths fittings larger and shortin hose lengths until you feel its flow matches your other inlet,sometimes just the way the dual cooling fitting is drilled into pump and type fitting used can make a big difference
 
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J

jason184

Location
Annapolis, MD
masterblaster said:
sjrider..now thats a awesome informative post.The 110 and 120 jets provided with the rrp both go in the same line,one in back of the filter to balance the pressures you were just talking about from low to high rpm.the other one obviously in the spray bar. Try removing your jet to the water box and just use a fcv very close to the inlet at the box. Try running your dedicated line removed so you can see its pressure while running ski up against a dock in the water. Make adjustments to restricters,drill out 3/8ths fittings larger and shortin hose lengths until you feel its flow matches your other inlet,sometimes just the way the dual cooling fitting is drilled into pump and type fitting used can make a big difference
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So do you now prefer to run just a flow control before the water box or do you still restrict it with a 2.5 n&s as well? Going to play around with this a little bit to see what happens
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
Try it both ways,Ive done both, I drilled the 2.5 out a bit and butted it right to the fcv in the hose, Id have to experiment with it more to know for sure,A drilled out 2.5 flows tons more than any size carb jet,still helps maintain sim pressure under WOT,the fcv setting is more critical
 
J

jason184

Location
Annapolis, MD
masterblaster said:
Try it both ways,Ive done both, I drilled the 2.5 out a bit and butted it right to the fcv in the hose, Id have to experiment with it more to know for sure,A drilled out 2.5 flows tons more than any size carb jet,still helps maintain sim pressure under WOT,the fcv setting is more critical
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I did some testing with this today. I'm finding similar results as you. I was having a very inconsistent "rich" issue off idle. Clearly my problem was due to the waterbox loading up with water. Adding the fcv completely eliminated the issue. I tried many settings for the fcv from opening just above idle to almost not opening at all. I was happiest with it set to start opening just above idle. As I dried the waterbox out using the fcv I continued to lose mid range power.
 
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