- Location
- New Jersey
bought a factory pipe... Im going to have to start selling off some of my un-used stuff. Or start another build with it.
650/X-2 winter build 650/750
- Thread starter dbattersby20
- Start date
- Location
- New Jersey
was able to make it home for a day again. I got the engine back together. i had sealed up the case the other day and after bolting it together the crank didn't spin very easily so i wasn't sure what happened. the only thing i could think of was that i didn't put grease on the inside of the crank seals. So i took it apart put some grease on and some more 1211 and it spins now. I don't think the grease was the problem but it works now so i don't really care.
Wasn't able to get the coupler off so i only replaced one seal. i'll obviously leak test it before i put it back in to make sure. What do most people use to block off the intake and exhaust while leak testing? I might lasercut some lexan or plexigass while im at school to block them off.
Wasn't able to get the coupler off so i only replaced one seal. i'll obviously leak test it before i put it back in to make sure. What do most people use to block off the intake and exhaust while leak testing? I might lasercut some lexan or plexigass while im at school to block them off.
- Location
- New Jersey
so i got the engine back together late last night. And fab'd up some plate for the exhaust and intake mani that way i could pressure test it, put a needle off an old bike tube on the intake mani plate and jb welded it, then used a bike pump and my pop off pressure gauge. Quickly tested it out and wasn't holding any compression, realized i didn't cover up the drainage holes on the opposite side of the engine. Put the plate on the holes and it still wasn't holding anything so decided to deal with it today. Turns out the plate either wasn't on all the way or the o-ring or done. so i threw a little grease around the rings and it holds compression. Ill probably just jb weld some bolts into the holes so there's no chance of failure. how much compression should it hold and for how long?
- Location
- Stouffville, Ontario
is what I used for my leak down test. Bought three from a local pool supply shop, cost me $9. Two for my dual 38 manifold, and 1 for my Factory pipe manifold. Then just used the popoff gauge to test the pressure. I did 10 psi for 10 minutes. lost less than .5psi so I was happy.
- Location
- New Jersey
Thats a good ide, I had the aluminum sitting around anyway. Mine doesn't quite do 10 psi for 10 minutes. I think I did like 8 psi for 1 minute and it dropped 1psi. But I assume a little was leaking through the drain hole. So if that's not good enough than illplug the holes and test again
- Location
- New Jersey
painted the motor mounts and starter with por-15. first time using por-15. i bought the starter kit, back in november/december and i can't remember why but i bought the silver over black, probably so that the starter would be the same color as the rest of the engine. That was a bad choice. Like most silver and gold paints they don't really mix well and stay mixed. I thought at first that maybe it's just what por-15 does, but my brother has used the black por-15 and he said it was thick. Silver was very thin and just made it a little harder to paint on. Nevertheless though, it seems to have dried well and hopefully should be good. I also placed an order this week with mcmaster, just got a couple barbed fitting, water filter (for sand), some tubing, and a couple other things.
I'm going to put a 1/2inch 90 degree fitting on the pump and then run half inch tube into the hull, then into the water filter. after the filter ill "T" off the half inch line into two 3/8" line which will run to the mani and header. I was looking for a "Y" fitting that had a barb for 1/2" tube and two barb for 3/8" tube but i couldn't find it so ill get a Y that has all 1/2" barb and then use some reducing couplings after.
After money transfers into my paypal, im getting a single 800gph bilge, ecwi, and was wondering about the starter switch. I want a lanyard on it, should i get a ts faceplate for my 650 start/stop(does the switch work with 750 elecs?) or should i just get a complete 750 switch from a sit down or something?
I'm going to put a 1/2inch 90 degree fitting on the pump and then run half inch tube into the hull, then into the water filter. after the filter ill "T" off the half inch line into two 3/8" line which will run to the mani and header. I was looking for a "Y" fitting that had a barb for 1/2" tube and two barb for 3/8" tube but i couldn't find it so ill get a Y that has all 1/2" barb and then use some reducing couplings after.
After money transfers into my paypal, im getting a single 800gph bilge, ecwi, and was wondering about the starter switch. I want a lanyard on it, should i get a ts faceplate for my 650 start/stop(does the switch work with 750 elecs?) or should i just get a complete 750 switch from a sit down or something?
- Location
- friendswood tx
will the 750 factory pipe fit in the hull or will you have to go with a diffrent tank to stuff in in there, i am running a stock pipe dried out on my conversion
- Location
- New Jersey
i actually haven't test fitted the exhaust yet. the hull is in a different location at the moment, im planning on getting it on good friday or the day after. i have a tank from a js300 though that i can use if the 650 tank is in the way. im just hoping that it doesn't hit the hull.
- Location
- New Jersey
hoping to be able to go home for easter this weekend and pick up the ski on saturday and bring back to my house to finally test fit the pipe and get the pump back in etc. Im considering just installing rear exhaust rather than getting a new piece of pipe bent for a front water box. I'd just get the tdr inline silencer, a 2" I.D. aluminum pipe from mcmaster. Not that it will really matter on this ski but i think that would drop a considerable amount of weight. the stock waterbox with those rubber pads is super heavy. and ill be able to check if water is getting under the tray, which id bet it is.
found a vxr pro for $750 w/ trailer which im thinking about picking up to use the pump and engine for a new project. Anyone have an opinion on what would have more power. stock 701 with b pipe or ported 750, 180 psi, msd enhancer, factory pipe, dual carbs, lightened flywheel?
found a vxr pro for $750 w/ trailer which im thinking about picking up to use the pump and engine for a new project. Anyone have an opinion on what would have more power. stock 701 with b pipe or ported 750, 180 psi, msd enhancer, factory pipe, dual carbs, lightened flywheel?
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
750 will have more power but 701 might still have a some bottom end over the 750. Depends on what power your looking fr.
- Location
- New Jersey
Bottom end...
- Location
- New Jersey
so i have the hull at my house now and have a good chunk of time tomorrow to do some work. I got a start/stop switch from twin and a bilge harness from ocd solutions. I opened up the 750 elec box to figure out how to hook everything up. There's three wires coming out of the box for the temp sensor which i won't be using and don't have, one wire is black/yellow and the other two are red/yellow, should i just cut these wires off inside the box and then seal up the hole in the electric box? I can snap a pic or two if it helps. To better explain it. the bk/y wire comes out of the CDI igniter and goes to the temperature sensor and then there are two r/y wires coming back from the temperature sensor and go to the CDI igniter (the wiring diagram only shows one r/y wire though).
- Location
- New Jersey
ok, so was sorting through the electric box and trying to figure out which wires are what and i was getting really confused because it looked like i had a lot more wires than what was on the diagram and after counting them up i did... so i had the three extra wires for the temp sensor, im not sure why it is three wires and not 2, maybe one was supposed to go to a fuse? there was a 12th wire coming out of the cdi igniter and i couldn't figure out what it was for. i matched it up with another wire which ran through a 30amp fuse. So i think those two wires were connected to the trim system. what should i be doing with all the extra wires, just cut them and dip them in a plastic?
- Location
- New Jersey
the 750 switch from twin is on (he did a really nice job wiring it, i still need the actual landyard piece that i put around my wrist), it was kind of a pain to get the 650 switch off and the 750 wires through the pole. kawasaki for some reason likes to use phillip head screws in random places, and they never come out. seems like 75% of the steering stuff uses phillip head and a few things by the stator. they also used 8mm bolts to hold what looks like flotation devices in the pole, and those just snapped when i tried to take them out. pics aren't too good, but you can see the pipe fits and the tank from a 300 fits.
The 300 tank doesn't fit very will with the bottom of the hull so ill probably grab some foam to try and level it out and also need a new tube to run from the tank to the fill spot on the outside of the hull. the hood doesn't fit with the pipe however. the front left tube which ( in the picture the tube on the right) hits dead middle on the pipe. so i still need to deal with that and then figure out what im going to do with my electrics because the box i have is from a zxi which apparently wont work with other 750 stators. ill also have to figure out where to mount that.
if anyone has a spare 650 hood for sale, id like to try to take out the liner and then run some new paths for air. and then reinforce it(since there's no liner)
few other small things to do as well. need a drill bit for drilling the waterbox, some pissers, switch for a bilge pump (and set up the pump)
spent a lot of time cleaning the inside of the hull too.
The 300 tank doesn't fit very will with the bottom of the hull so ill probably grab some foam to try and level it out and also need a new tube to run from the tank to the fill spot on the outside of the hull. the hood doesn't fit with the pipe however. the front left tube which ( in the picture the tube on the right) hits dead middle on the pipe. so i still need to deal with that and then figure out what im going to do with my electrics because the box i have is from a zxi which apparently wont work with other 750 stators. ill also have to figure out where to mount that.
if anyone has a spare 650 hood for sale, id like to try to take out the liner and then run some new paths for air. and then reinforce it(since there's no liner)
few other small things to do as well. need a drill bit for drilling the waterbox, some pissers, switch for a bilge pump (and set up the pump)
spent a lot of time cleaning the inside of the hull too.
- Location
- New Jersey
ordering some pissers and lanyard from atlantic jetsports.
and found these on ebay. says it has a money back guarantee if it breaks for any reason. im ordering two cause they're so cheap, so if the first one breaks really quick ill hook up the second one while i order a better marine switch. also, it will mount to the handle bars pretty easily, where as a toggle switch is a dash mount.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-Wat...&otn=2&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7977271618214873310
and found these on ebay. says it has a money back guarantee if it breaks for any reason. im ordering two cause they're so cheap, so if the first one breaks really quick ill hook up the second one while i order a better marine switch. also, it will mount to the handle bars pretty easily, where as a toggle switch is a dash mount.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-Wat...&otn=2&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7977271618214873310
- Location
- New Jersey
finally finished up all the engine stuff. Plugged the drain holes with bolts. used 5/16-18 bolts and tapped the holes first. Put grease on the end of the tap to grab all the metal flakes then just cleaned it out with q-tips.
Drilled out the waterbox. just did an additional 3 holes to make it a total of 4 rather than 7. Definitely the hardest thing ive had to drill through. i went to sears looking for a cobalt 12" bit but they just had standard crappy bits at 12". i couldn't get it to even leave a mark using a drill, then i put it in my drill press and went through ok. used plenty of oil
Drilled out the waterbox. just did an additional 3 holes to make it a total of 4 rather than 7. Definitely the hardest thing ive had to drill through. i went to sears looking for a cobalt 12" bit but they just had standard crappy bits at 12". i couldn't get it to even leave a mark using a drill, then i put it in my drill press and went through ok. used plenty of oil
- Location
- New Jersey
On another note. Picked this up a couple weeks ago for my summer build. probably another 650sx, but with a lot of mods.
- Location
- New Jersey
finished installing everything and started up pretty quick. will test it out next weekend and hopefully get it dialed in. The water lines were nearly impossible to route, there just wasn't enough room. When i do glass work on this thing in a year or two ill prob redo the water lines and small things like that. I added in quick disconnects and water filters and it just made it nearly impossible to make the bends. I would definitely say for anyone doing a 750 conversion, do not use the 750 limited pipe chamber, just use a normal straight chamber, it made life really difficult.
I have another summer project now, putting a 701 and 144 into a js300, with a bunch of hull mods. will start a build thread for it in the ski buildups.
I have another summer project now, putting a 701 and 144 into a js300, with a bunch of hull mods. will start a build thread for it in the ski buildups.
- Location
- New Jersey
Put some tom21 foot holds in the 650/750 took a bit of grinding to get a decent fit. used ss rivet some 2 part foam and 1708 biaxial to keep everything together. Im going to be doing the turf and a little more glassing to fill in some of the stock holds on the rails and 1 or two others. also switching to a superjet mod chamber so i can hopefully go back to the original gas tank and everything fit better. that 750 chamber was just too huge and needed a lot more work to make everything fit right.
