XI

Did you swap out all the hardware for aluminum and titanium? Or better yet you should swap it all out for carbon. :cool:
View attachment 454495
Only the pinch bolts are Ti. Less selection with Ti and I obsess over bolt thread and shoulder lengths when it comes to fit. Probably would've taken me another 5 years just to collect the right bolts in Ti ! Just went with 316ss. I will admit, I did consider it!
 
Last edited:
I did perform some HIGHLY scientific research on my battery tray, lol. I bounced it up and down from a shock cord upside down after installing the turf bed. The holes do more than lighten the tray, they help to lock the turf in.

DSC07755.JPGDSC07756.JPGIMG_4152.JPGIMG_4153.JPGIMG_4155.JPGIMG_4157.JPG
 
Last edited:
The stuff Tony gave me came out of bulk packs, never got a brand name. Must’ve been secret spec kind of stuff, lol. This is one of the spent tubes.

View attachment 454213
To share some recommendations, seakeeper just came out with a new dynamic trim tab system for boats. If you google “approved seakeeper ride adhesives” you will find a list of high quality MMA adhesives and one of them happens to have a 40 minute work time and comes in a tube like that.

The trim tabs are glued on to a hull using the MMA adhesives as the primary source of affixing them to the hull. If it’s good enough for that, I’d say it’s good enough to add any insert to a hull.
 
To share some recommendations, seakeeper just came out with a new dynamic trim tab system for boats. If you google “approved seakeeper ride adhesives” you will find a list of high quality MMA adhesives and one of them happens to have a 40 minute work time and comes in a tube like that.

The trim tabs are glued on to a hull using the MMA adhesives as the primary source of affixing them to the hull. If it’s good enough for that, I’d say it’s good enough to add any insert to a hull.
I'm sure all the stuff out there is comparable or it wouldn't be on the market for long. I wouldn't open a tube of it for just doing inserts though, but you can't beat it for a big bonding job like top decks and bottom decks.
 
Finished up the cooling lines and added Ebox. No matter how hard I try friggin engine compartment always winds up looking like Das Boot. Oh well, function over form. I usually observe metal clamps on metal fittings and plastic clamps on plastic fittings, the head pissers were the only place I used Herbie's on metal.

IMG_4210.JPGIMG_4211.JPGIMG_4212.JPGIMG_4214.JPG
 
Jetting the Ninja SE 50's. Came with 110 MJ , 145 PJ, was given a suggestion of 122.5 MJ and 150 PJ, so I'll start there and have everything around that on hand. Oh yeah, 19 psi pop-off.

IMG_4217.JPGIMG_4215.JPGIMG_4216.JPGIMG_4218.JPGIMG_4001.JPGIMG_4002.JPG
 
One thing the Ninja's didn't have were primer fittings and I'm not adding them. I hear all the rage is choke cups, so I'll give them a try. If they don't work, they will be great for storage.

IMG_4233.JPGIMG_4234.JPGIMG_4238.JPGIMG_4235.JPG
 
And I had to shim it 6mm to clear the Velociraptor trim. I made the shims from Damascus carbon, lol. Just kidding, actually used 2 layers of 3.5mm plate and sanded to fit.

IMG_4482.JPGIMG_4483.JPGIMG_4530.JPGIMG_4531.JPG
 
So this is how the plate comes out of the box. Peel ply surface, rough but functional. It's the last uncoated surface on the boat so I figured what the hell, let's clear it. A couple guys have asked me how I clear, so here's how I do it and what I use.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4455.JPG
    IMG_4455.JPG
    186.1 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4450.JPG
    IMG_4450.JPG
    192 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4451.JPG
    IMG_4451.JPG
    167.3 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4452.JPG
    IMG_4452.JPG
    152.7 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4453.JPG
    IMG_4453.JPG
    160.9 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4410.JPG
    IMG_4410.JPG
    210.4 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4411.JPG
    IMG_4411.JPG
    183.1 KB · Views: 7
Behind the bulkhead and inside the hood I used US Composites 2:1 Non Blush laminating resin. Long cure lets most of the bubbles out. But it WILL yellow if exposed to sunlight !

DSC04431.JPG
 
Last edited:
This is what was left in the bottom of my mixing cup when I did my first test batch of SC110 a couple of years ago. I pulled it from the cup, sanded and polished it, and it rides around in my work truck getting set out in the sun when I'm at jobs. It has not yellowed AT ALL !


IMG_2172.JPG
 
To clear the ride plate I used 80 grit to remove any wrinkles from the infusion bag, just sanding the wrinkle. We're going for visual here so just enough sanding to take out the sag. You don't want to cut into the pretty fabric pattern.

IMG_4411.JPG
 
Top Bottom