Its not really the same thing. The flow control valves are a pressure relief valve, what you do is tune them to begin passing water at about a 1/4 throttle (ie tune them for the pump pressure at that throttle load) to dry out the waterbox at the bottom end. A normal valve would just limit flow...
Got a bit of CNC experience too, it kills me when I see products with programming flaws like dwell marks from not using lead ins/outs, or bad finish from obviously wrong speeds and feeds, good to know there are some good programmers in this industry.
Yeah I wish it was. Kayaks are rotomolded polyethylene (you probably know this living at NRG) which has great impact resistance, the Spark is glass reinforced polypropylene or what SeaDoo calls polytec...much more brittle stuff.
Panel adhesive is stupid strong, it will probably rip a layer of glass out of the hull before it unbonds provided the surface was prepped properly. Likely a stronger bonding adhesive than the resin in the hull.
Ski looks good by the way guys, I found a lot of similar types of problem...
Not that it helps us kawi guys but you know the new superjets came with an optional plastic case that fits under the pole for this?
http://rivaracing.onlinemicrofiche.com/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=yamahapwc&a=148&b=14&c=0&d=-ENGINE-HATCH
Don't know about Oz, but at the NZ freeride there is usually a ski available for international riders, so you might just be able to fly over and ride someone else's.
Never flown with a ski but I'd try and check it in on the same flight, and rent a pickup at the airport and chuck it in the...
Its a special puller, you need to buy it from TBM
http://tbmracing.com/web/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=6&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=168&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=18&vmcchk=1&Itemid=18
You should drill a hole in the bracket and run some thin stainless braided wire through the loops on the pins. I've been meaning to do that since I've almost dropped the pins on my ski into the water once or twice.
Are you going to use a stock hood latch? On my kawi rok I used the stock ebox bracket. It uses the stock hood latch to mount at the top, and then I trimmed the bracket to fit at the bootom and tapped the hull next to the coupler bearing for two more M6 holes. Its a bitch to get in and out...
Just make sure you run a spacer if you are going to a tight pole bolt (not included with the pole btw). You can crack the base, especially the cast ones.
yeah, the kawi dealer in nz wanted a few hundred dollars for a 550 tank. If I still lived in the states and could get used tanks ($50 tank, comes with free jetski) I'd probably still use one.
I saw a 550 for sale for $1500 the other day, I threw up in my mouth a little.
I see you are running a 550 tank, I had one but replaced it after it dried up and cracked with a summit racing tank that is about the same size. http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/wdk-rok-tank.142056/
I ended up using a 4 gal tank from summit racing and TIGing up a stainless bracket for it. Fits really tight and you have to take the exhaust and it apart in sequence it get it in and out. Hopefully works nice, still need some 3/ths to 1/4in barbed reducers to finish plumbing it.
I think the steering hull side is female 1/2npt or something close. Its different than an SXR fitting.
Since I was using SXR running gear, I had to make something up:
I was able to get one of these fittings to thread in http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-810-1-8...
LOL I'm a climber (out on rock much much more than water) and I wouldn't even think of using climbing shoes on my ski. They are sticky but your feet will go freaking numb from hard landings since they aren't designed with any support for standing flat foot.
Been quite happy with wake skate...
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