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In my instance 5mm has been removed from the inside rear hub of the prop where it meets the shaft bearing so it sits 5mm closer to the pump viens that stock - I need 3mm in reality so adding a 2mm spacer moves it back forward towards the stock location and gets me to where I need to be. Jim

That's a fair comment.. Why do some people struggle to grasp that certain items in the right condition appreciate over time.. Some examples.. GB500 Motorbikes, Older Harley's VM Campers GI Jo dolls Porsche 911 Aircooled Teenage Mutant toys Vintage comics The list goes on and on...Lots...

Nice one Matt, will give it a try.. Jim

How much shipped to United Kingdom (Zip B762BG)?

I've got a 155 Mag pump and I needed a 10/16 thin blade 3mm cutback prop, but ended up with a 10/18 5mm cutback on because it was the closest they had in stock (and I was foolish/impatient), figured I'd try it and repitch if it's to steep... Guess what - it feels to tall.. My question is, does...

Great result! Glad your sorted :)

I'd go for a new one way valve and new needle/seats for what they cost first.. Also ha e you tried back the low end needle out by 1/4 turn - does that sort he flat spot? Have you changed the plugs? Jim

If your dribbling it could be a stuck or worn needle/seat dumping fuel in that can't combust properly until you open the carb throat/it spools up and it pulls enough air to mix with the gobs of fuel?

I only ever run OEM fuel hose now, had the same issues as above with leaks (but at the carb end where you CANT see it) Pull the motor and walk through it end to end, it shouldn't take long to find the issue.. Have you checked your reeds? The annular discharge ring in the carbs should vapourise...

Sweet, nice concentration of tricks!

It's takes less than a minute to wrap a peice of wire around the negative term on battery and round/under a flywheel cover bolt and you have ruled in/out an earth problem! Get it done dude ;0)

Your original earth is likely fubar, this allows you to bypass it to prove the fault - you can then replace it or leave the new one.. It's just a quick 5x min way to check if the earthing is the issue without ripping your ski to bits..

Run a second ground lead from your battery negative to your flywheel front cover bolt and your problem will be solved, seen this same problem a few times and this sorts it.. Jim

I'm getting them round now (glass XFS/XS1000/PFP/Mag144) - what helped me most was really reefing the bars in hard to your chest half way round to speed up the rotation - not to early and not too late. Do some pull ups to build your upper strength, you really need to muscle it round compared to...

Carb cleaner or turpentine substitute works great to clean the oil off.. I went for an ATP Scupper outlet for my exhaust - looks like billet OEM and works great

That's great info thanks, I'll try both and see how it rides. Was it tail standing and difficult to pull away on 3' nozzle? What hull you running? Thanks Jim

That's great thanks 102nd - what ski is the reduction nozzle off, a GP1200?

Is that the 144 onto a 155 nozzle without grinding?

Yes please..

Anyone?