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Since they didn't come with studs and they don't make studs for it you will be on your own sourcing some from another application. You could buy threaded rod and cut it to make your own studs but You would be better off buying a used set of cases that have good threads.

Jetmaniac, but like they said don't expect a performance gain by replacing the waterbox. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/jetmaniac-waveblaster-waterbox.186284/

I don't know. If you buy a sheet there will be more than enough.

For a traction mat you can buy a sheet and cut your own.

Are they stainless steel?

The shim I was describing would not be pressed in and would only fill the gap that the bearings were moving in. When idling the pump would make a rumbling sound. upon inspection the shaft was able to move forward and back slightly inside the pump housing. I took the pump apart the bearings could...

no break-in period required.

I have been running Walmart oil for more than 25 years. Good to know.

Then I would hone it and put on new rings. I wish my top end was that clean, what kind of oil are you running?

Is there any scoring on the pistons that could be matched up to scoring on the cylinders?

I should also mention that when I was putting my pump back together I used my micrometer to measure the distance from the outside rear race to the back edge of the pump and compared that to the lip of the rear cone and they were the same. Meaning there should not be a gap there. Clearly if that...

The spacer should only touch the outer race as it is stationary, the inner race is moving. I was thinking about using the outside race of one of the old bearings. Cut a slit into it and it will slip right in. That way you can easily remove it for fitting. Then you would have to cut it down to...

I am referring to here marked in red. The rear cone slides inside the rear of the pump. It should lock the bearings in place, but there must be a gap that would allow the bearings to move back towards the cone and allow room for the shaft to move forward and back. I was thinking I could measure...

Both my bearings pressed on tight. I think that you will still have an issue if they weren't tight. So one side pressed on tight and one did not? If so I would think you need a new driveshaft. One thought I had, which wouldn't be an ideal solution. It looked to me like the rear cap should...

My problem turned out to be the exact same thing. the driveshaft could move forward and back slightly in the pump. I tried pressing the bearings back in but the shaft came loose the first time I rode it. When I took the pump apart the bearings could slide on the shaft even though they were...

if it's a rivet there will be a "ball" in the expanded part.

If I want to know if a part is interchangeable between ski's I look up the part number and see if they match. Also aftermarket parts would be listed to fit both. I just put a sbt cable on mine and the quality looked like oem to me.

pm'd about the throttle lever.

A friend of mine bought a new one this summer. I rode it recently for about 10 minutes. The reason my ride was so short is twofold. One, the water was cold and I felt like it was going to chunk me off at any second. I didn't want to go for a swim. It chine walks pretty bad. I was really...