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Yep I'll try and pull them tomorrow. Can you buy just the pump parts? Like the check valves and rubber plugs and gaskets? Or do I need to just buy a few more rebuild kits?

They don't extend below the stock slosh sleeve.

I modified oem and extended both lines to about the bottom. Besides that the tank is fulI, also pressure tested the lines from the bottom of the tank. It held 60 pounds before I blew a line off a nipple that wasn't ziptied. I pinched the line closed at the carb during that test. No air leaks...

I will check all that again but. All the lines are new only a few weeks old.

Will do thanks. Also I have tested the motor for air leaks and it will hold pressure pressure used to 12 pounds. Only lost 2 or 3 pounds over like 5 hours. But the motor runs away on the stand. I am sure the run away condition is from the air in the fuel lines.

Ok so a few weeks ago I started having an issue with the duel 44 carbs that I had recently rebuilt. I have done away with the selector switch and am running 2 pickups and each carb is separate. The ski started running poorly and I pulled the good off to see very little fuel in the fuel filters...

Well I got her back together. Spun the piston around. Every thing ran great. Lesson here is no matter what the arrow says, Ring gaps split the intake port.

@JetManiac. I need a hooker Impeller removal tool and the rubber piece that goes in front of the impeller do you sell those and if so how do I get up with you to buy them.

I think I have just about learned my lesson with WSM Pistons. This isn't the first time they have shipped me something from the factory that has been wrong

Like BruceSki said 5 minutes now could save you a big problem later. I dont know if side pressure on that stud would matter but I dont think I would wanna test it.

Yes. That is an issue with the 62t case. You have to machine off the tabs around the top of the cylinders where the interference Is ,So that the studs can drop straight in. I had the same issue on my motor build this past winter. It had me stumped for a little while.

I'm sure I can get another piston. No problem. But the piston is identical to the other except for the arrow. And if all I have to do is spin it around then I would just spin it. Has anyone ever seen pistons marked wrong? Now the wisco's I took out had skirts of different sizes from one side...

Would anyone run the ring gaps in the exhaust port. What is the design reason for them toward the intake?

Piston skirts are symmetrical same with on both sides. I think I should just turn the piston around. And say screw the arrow. The piston couldn't have been cast wrong, but the arrow could have been marked on it wrong.

I don't know I will measure.

Now some of the piston I think is wrong

Ok so I was putting my dads motor back together and I wanted some input on this. I know the arrow on top if the piston points to the exhaust. This puts the ring gap on the intake side (or close to it). The first piston I put on looked fine. The I started on the second and it's like they put...

Pm me and we will talk about the prop.

Stock bore 760 Milled the cylinder base .065 ADA head I don't remember the dome size. Recut for.060 squish and 200 pounds of compression. Cylinder ported by me. Cases ported by me. I didn't fill the fingers. Vf3 reeds stock manifold with cross over filled. Stock dual 44 stock air box with...

I gave it a try and really wanted it to work but it just didn't hit as hard and seemed like it burned a bit more fuel.