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To come clean about air filter debate, I actually got a good explanation from someone else who was a much more pleasant individual than Eric. The smaller air filter will create turbulence in the air entering the carbs which may cause some aderse affects. But in my opinion, a carburetor...

I've got nothing against him or anyone else I've butted heads with here. And time constraints/etc often factor into offering technical info.

Ok so now that we have all chilled out. What would the technical explanation be for why a slight raise in cyl and port height would damage the motor. Transfers too high? More air trapped under the pistons in the cases? I admit I am not a machinist or a engine theory expert. But I do know...

That's a solid one up there I admit. Even the service manual has just a symbol that indicates you need grease on the seals, newcomers might easily miss that.

Make sure when you're assembling the bottom end of a 701 to apply grease to the crank seals to help keep them lubricated . This step is often missed, there was no mention of it on the tech faq thread about engine assembly If they aren't greased they wear out prematurely.

I know exactly what you said. I just had custom domes made this year. Yes you would get ideal results with custom cut domes and the "stock" base gasket intended by the engine builder, 020 for stock Yamaha. Using a thicker gasket will change then port timing. Which you said was bad info and...

Nah man, I am asking you how my specific advice would cost someone a motor. Which was using using a thicker gasket to achieve no less than 045 squish which is an accepted safe limit. Decking the cyl and not having adequate squish, that would cost you a motor.

Please tell me how a safe distance between the dome and the piston is going to cost someone a motor.

Zero first hand knowledge? Lol. Have a nice day big dog.

What's so bad about a slightly higher port timing? It may soften the hit a tad, yes, but to say this is bad info I don't know man. Sounds like a power Trip to me in your case.

Might not be the best way but it's probably more practical than sending your motor off and ending your season early.

Just from the picture I saw it looks like you have the standard replacement not the 093 o ring, I could be way off on this just a hunch

I've got 2 ada girdle heads and each one uses a different o ring size for the outer sealing. I think you might have the wrong o rings

Here's another, modified jetworks linkage and 8mm clamp collars from McMaster.

It's probably not a good idea to really torque those down, they will get stuck. I would think hand tight until it stops is all you need just like with the ada studs. Can always replace Ada studs one at a time with factory cyl bolts for inspection

Its best done with the motor on a bench. I am pretty sure those holes are not open to the inside, you would have massive air leak problems.

Girdle head unless you have a dasa cylinder which you can use a non girdle. I like the Ada style one pc studs, some heads used two PC studs which like to get stuck in the case threads. If you have never had girdle head on your motor, you will probably have to tap out your case threads to...

A b pipe, 180+psi, enhancer, 9/15 or similar prop and stock 38s will work for you. That is a tried and true combo x10. Add Porting to the cyl and case for even more snap.

No less than 045 to be safe