Search results

Might need different domes, have some custom cut if necessary, and you probably should check your squish band clearence if you haven't already. I may be wrong about this but I had been running a motor with only .035 squish and at first after a rebuild it showed around 240 psi then dropped down...

Stuff happened and I couldn't race this year, but I will be back next year for sure. Looks like Josh block won on a real fast 550. Rules were very different this year, course was shortened for first two motos and the staggered start gave 550s the advantage. And the track was right handed...

Yep just put an electric motor/DI 2 stroke/4 stroke/etc on a superjet hull and call it the new thing.

Spend a few years working in auto body and you'll know why plastics are a bad idea for structural components. Hot staples, hot iron plastic welding and panel bond is what ends up being used to fix these kinds of components. It's just not the kind of material that can be beat up and fixed over...

The one time I had a broken Reed, the thing would not even want to start at all unless you covered the carb(s) with your palm

Plastic, urethane etc are a repair nightmare too. Just a forewarning. Have you welded plastic before? It's not fun or healthy lol

Not too familiar with powerfactor pipe, but I do have a r&d rev 2, just remember if you're running 35cc domes w/dry pipe that makes the engine act more like it had 33cc domes. So you need 100 octane not 93. Earlier this year I had r&d pipe, stock internals and 38s w/Ada head and 35cc domes...

If there was that much water in the tankand youre letting the motor run and then lean stall repeatedly, I would expect to find internal damage. It might still show good compression, but it's a matter of time before a major failure.

piston seizure/scoring

It can still runaway and shut off. Imagine the leak like the throttle being open and can't close. It's when the plugs' electrode gets super hot that it's impossible to stop it

Get a free form factory hull, they have a video of it being smashed with a sledge hammer with no cracking.

Did it Shear the woodruff key? That might explain why it's spinning over so strangely and why the f.w. bolt was so loose

That's crazy, when there's no load on it when plugs are out it's undetectable, then when the plugs are in and it's under the load of compression it's freespinning like a bearing was spun or worn out, possible bad Bendix? Have you looked behind the f.w. cover? Is your midshaft in good condition?

If it gets hot again, you should be seeing a 0.1 or so across battery terminals with ohm meter. Had a dead short and there was no fuse.

Jetworks. I just had a set done. Send your old dome and they will put it on lathe and match it (not a perfect process, they told me there could be some variance). Knowing your squish Clearence will help

It's awesome we have real contributors on this page who know how to debate respectfully, without turning into little spoiled children who would rather Tee Pee your house and spout off dumb insults... Great thread. Keep up the good work fellas.

I tried finding some of that high temp boat exhaust hose in a less common 4.25" diameter for the exhaust I'm running...they only sell you minimum 100 feet custom order lol $$$

Yeah you can't deny the simple and effective 2 stroke, some of the Yamaha 4 strokes are incredibly complex (in comparison), ex: the superchargered fz sho engine. The TR:1 seems pretty straightforward and works great in kommander ind builds.

Been covered already, it fits in 760 ebox but not 61x/t without modifications

Sxr plows over small waves, that's a huge strength thanks to it's heavy hull The turning style imo favors a "put your weight forward" and lean it over style. My superjet likes to be leaned back which is more comfortable for me, I'm used to that style. If you watch Jacobs from the superjet...