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I filed down the blades of the prop just enough to not drag, making sure not to go past the spec in the Yamaha service manual. Recently changed to a solas prop and didn't have any trouble with clearence to wear ring.

No one ever said a gasket would fix it. Look at order of posts. Original poster found the sleeves weren't level and he said he was gonna have it machined, and then the talk about gasket and or domes started.

If you get nothing when you hit start with the lanyard in and it passes the red/brown continuity test, it is usually a sign the starter relay going bad. When the armature starts wearing out it can act intermittent. To test it you need to take it out of the ski and hook power and ground to...

Just to confirm, is this what you tested? unplug the brown/red connector and check for continuity across those wires while pressing green button it is showing continuity? Also Just because the relay works when you jump it does not mean it works, that just means you have voltage on one side...

But to answer my own question I do aplogize for the outbursts, I saw something about 060 squish so -10 thou isn't gonna be significant. I just think it's cool to see the problem get solved and I like to see one stay together for awhile so I offered my 2ct! Later dudes and gal happy riding!

And we addressed it as such if you read the earlier pages. Just curious if it was checked, Did the machinist have the whole motor during this time? By the sound of it he only had the cyl.

I had the same problem with a hooker prop in a 144 Maxx.

Y'all funny, so after decking the cylinder what was your squish?

It's a good idea to check the crank and wash it thoroughly with premix to get all the metal debris out from the bearings. Then put new seals in and your new top end.

Yep jetskis make you feel like a kid again. All of you seem like very passionate people who, like me are trying to do it right, and I applaud you for that. We all have stuff to learn. I am scaling back here to focus on what's more important for me. Cheers

And for the record I'm not claiming I ever had it at 100% I'm a nobody! You guys are the veterans I have never lost my cool here, but I've seen a lot of name calling from the vets! Let's see: you've called me a "keyboard cowboy" an "idiot" a "snowflake". Good job team! Only took what 4 of...

No that was a bpipe and it was under propped Didn't read it thru. My set up was for all acceleration

Easy there toots. Lol

Mph Tach Accel time. Race results. My best numbers are 48mph 7300 rpm 0-30 1.3 seconds Two podium finishes. I have no doubt you could do something better than me. We probably wouldnt have comparable set ups anyway, this year was research and development for me as I have changed to a dry...

Well we agreed domes would be the right way. However by the sound of it that motor was already using thick gaskets, who knows it may not have been set up right initially. I/others were simply reminding the owner to operate at his own discretion and consider options. And if the piston poked out...

Sorry poops, I will stop. Yall be good and happy riding.

Optimal performance? Based on what? How are you measuring this, top speed? Accel times? Dyno tuning? Plug readings?

"hope the motor can react" It has no choice, that's what I meant by it doesn't know what filters on it. You run different inlet you get different results, however subtle it may be. Said yourself the air speed would change. What works for me may not for you

I have some understanding, no I'm not an engineer. I own a carbureted car and I did tune ups on classic vehicles professionally for a time and I have been fooling with skis for years. You dont want the carb too large for the motor. 48s are too big for a 701-735. On principle yes you should...

I actually didn't even mean to post that last one as someone called me mid typing. Anyway I'm scaling back involvement here. It's been fun over the years. Thanks for the opportunity. Sorry to de rail, let's get the post back on track for the o.p.