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Normally if I'm tearing into an engine it was from some sort of compression loss or failure. Since I didn't have any history with the ski I was assuming it might be worse than what it is. The local shop is at least a couple weeks out so as long as it passes a leakdown I'm going to re-assemble...

Looks like a fairly extensive amount of work ahead - what happened to the tray sides? As for the rebuild - Req did a pretty awesome job of documenting his build and page 15 will get you right in the middle of the tray work. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/project-dance-floor.192934/page-15

@ kevbo - rings are not stuck and the ski does have even compression. Per Quinc can I just re-assemble and send it until the end of the season? Going to check with my local machinist to see how quick of a turnaround I could get. Question on the carbs - did the 96's have anti-tamper caps? I...

Appreciate the responses - just curious if that piston damage is from water ingestion, lean jetting, or heat? Looks like a full tear down ahead. Found a few other things that did not inspire confidence as I continued to dig in. The carbs still had the anti-tamper plugs on them and original...

Picked up my first superjet last week - a 96 RN. It had a stock head that was milled as it tested 180/179 on my gauge. It wouldn't start so after a bit of haggling ended up with a semi-risky but non-covid priced ski. It had a b-pipe but the screws were frozen so I pulled the headpipe off to...

While I don't know Quinc personally, anyone with over 8k posts and a site supporter probably checks out - unlike some of FB shenanigans I've seen. Still lots of good info on what to do on the cheap. Keep your eye out for some good deals and scoop them up as they come by.

Here is a good link on leakdown testing but that was a little premature on my part: https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/pressure-test.1303/ If your compression is actually 150 in both and you put fuel directly in the engine you should have gotten it to fire at least once. I'm guessing you may have...

Yep I'd just buy new for sure. Then realize you need jets, a N/S, FA, FA adapter, primer and some fun with the dremel getting that choke plate out. Quinc offered a solid deal on something ready to bolt and go.

@mikesx how long had you had the FCV? curious if your oring was missing or just damaged as well.

Looks like the head is all setup for dual cooling and with a factory ex manifold it would be a snap. The water flow will be limited by the through hull line so either upgrade that to a true 1/2" or add a second 3/8". If you do have to do the cheater pipe you can port the kawi headpipe to...

Timing is set by lining a mark up on the stator with the one on the case in the 10 o'clock bolt. If they are lined up that is stock timing. Have you done a leakdown test to verify crank seals are good?

Can you isolate the start/stop switch and check for continuity? Had a lanyard switch get water ingestion and the corrosion was preventing the entire circuit from working.

There are many mods that you can do to make it alot more fun for not much money. 1) If you've got the 28mm carb look for a 38 or 40mm keihin. You can get one cheap and it mounts on your existing intake with a little porting 2) Make sure you have a diverter exhaust manifold, gasket match...

The HF puller is almost identical to what JC posted. I put some tape on the bolts that thread into the flywheel to remind me not to screw those in to far and damage the stator.

Many choices - just depends on how convenient you want the switch. You could install the rotary inside the hull and just turn it on when you head out and off when done. You could remove the choke cabling and just manually cycle it by hand the first start or do a custom mount like SteveC said...