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I just give mine a couple of pumps, once a year. A half a tube, I fear you already over did it.

Okay thanks for the clarification, I thought if the water was slowed down it would have more time to absorb more heat. For a general lake ski, no racing what is the optimal water or head temp? Our water temp is about 85, air is 75 in the am and 90's in the pm. The head is usually about high...

08 SJ with a 701, mild porting, 180/180 compression, stock 38's and a B pipe with a flow control valve. When the valve opens it dumps a ton of water in the stinger, should I also run a restrictor in the line? I'm probably over thinking this, but with duel cooling is it possible to move water...

Stuck open or closed? I'm guessing it's dirty and covered with oil and stuff making it stick. I clean mine a few times a summer.

Very nice!

On the thru hull fitting in the pump tunnel there is a rubber seal the nut compresses to make the seal, if it's bad or cut replace it. As an extra precaution I use silicone on the inside of the hull where the cable goes into the tube.

I called Klotz the other day and after discussing with them all the options I'm going to use their Ski Craft oil. I can't use anything with Castor.

Do you have a bilge pump? Won't keep up with a ripped off scupper flap, but it would help and also let you know if its leaking.

I guess it's my day to post links for you. Look thru this post there is a couple pics of a great Rickter set-up. http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/2-standups-on-a-single-pwc-trailer.178035/

It wasn't a hard job as much as it was scary to work on an expensive hull. A new rubber flapper is only $20 or so from JM, might be good to get a spare.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/rickter-scupper-removal.182448/#post-1943453

My other scupper still doesn't leak, but I do worry about it. Your idea of a plate tapped for a smaller versi plug would work, but obviously would not let water out as fast. I wonder if you could make a plate that would hold 2 or 3 of the small ones.

Not sure how big the spot is, but if it's small some clear coat touch up in a bottle may work. We have a bad spot on the bottom of our Rickter that must have happened from moving it from the truck to a stand. It tore thru the clear and the decal, but not into the hull. Between the clear and...

Is this on the bottom or top?

I have no idea if this is the right way to do it, but it worked for me. I slowly lowered the hood to see where it hit and also took measurements and drew it out on the hood. Different engine mounting methods will need different cutouts. Then I cut the hood with a dremel drill cut off wheel...

Which brand is best? It's like a Ford/Chevy thing, everyone has an opinion. Three years ago we were in your place, we wanted a ski to learn tricks on. Lots of reading, testing as many skis as we could around our home and flying to Havasu to ride everything else. The problem is we didn't...

Bolts marked "A". Be aware, between the bedplate (engine) and the mounts (that will stay bolted to the hull) are shims of different thicknesses. There could be different ones for each mount, so don't mix them up. When you go back together (after the mid shaft is repaired) put the same shims...

Get some used couch mounts, they are stronger. PM JetManiac, he might have used ones.

Not our ski's just photos I have. All black might look good with the green RRP chinpad. We went with all blue on our 08.

Sun / heat is also an issue with the mold release, the hotter the hood gets the more it tends to peel. Our black 04 in TX was awful, but I have heard up north the issue of peeling paint is much less.