I don't have one of it, sorry. The water distribution block is way down underneath and can't really get a photo of it. I plan on pulling the engine in the next few weeks I'll get one then if you still need it.
Our Dasa has a water distribution block with one 1/2" line going to the exhaust manifold, then 2 - 3/8" lines going to the front cylinder and 2 more 3/8" lines going into rear cylinder (like pictured above). Then the 4 - 3/8" lines in the head dump overboard.
I'm not a paint expert, but I have bought the "correct Yamaha" paint from Colorite for 2 different skis. Unfortunately it hasn't held up well at all and it's not cheap. Now days I would think any good paint shop should be able to match it and use something that would hold up better on a ski.
The widest point on our XFS is around the hood latch area and it's about 29" across from the outside of each rub rail.
From the nose to the rear center part (it sticks out further) of the tray is 81"
Depending on what pump or nozzle set-up you have it will stick out beyond the tray. Our 155mm...
I have seen the bk/orange and bk/blue SJ's that have hood cancer already. I assume it's because the black asorbs the heat better and that somehow activates the mold realese Yamaha uses. I'm no expert, but our black 04 has more paint issues than our blue SJ has. Personaly I like the...
Both good products, but very different to me.
5200 is very strong, but in a very flexible way. G Flex sets up much harder so it's stronger to me, but not as flexible.
Exact same issue with our XFS (1000 Dasa). Our exhaust (RRP) and waterbox are raised up and the exhaust hose is also humped up and back down to outlet, so I don't think we're getting any water running around the pipe.
Yes, but you need to understand what your bending, trailing edge or leading edge. You only bend the last couple of inches and you will need a good jig to hold the prop tight, a vice isn't going to cut it.. I made one with a 1/2" thick plate and welded it to an old receiver so I could slip it...
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