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I made a set of tubbies for my 550 years ago. I didn't make a mold or anything though. I shaped them out of 2 inch closed cell foam from home depot or lowes and just glassed them on with 6 layers of a 8oz cloth. It was soooo much work haha. They worked well and dramatically changed the handling...

Kinda hard to see the routing on my ski but I'll draw a diagram for you

I typically separate the exhaust and engine cooling on every ski I put together. My current ski has 2- 1/2 lines from the pump that go into a manifold with 4 3/8 outlets. 2 outlets feed the engine to 2 separate pissers, 1 feeds the headpipe to another pisser, the 4th line feeds the stinger with...

Just don't fall off in deep water you might be ok..

You can pull the flywheel in the hull and do the work in the hull but it's easier to access the stator out of the hull.

Pressure test the engine to find the source of your leak is about all you can do.

1100s are cheap Power but not good for freestyle. They're known to destroy crankshafts from water ingestion which is inevitable with freestyle riding. And they're heavier. You're better off with a properly built and setup twin cylinder engine for freestyle.

I like 3 layers of 8oz 2+2 twill because it lays down around any curves easily and is very strong plus the design of the weave looks awesome.

@Deyanov your cylinder head is on backwards, the water outlets should be on the carb side of the engine, not the exhaust side.

Will be very sketchy for sure. I know a guy that has a 300sx he basically glassed a sj bottom to his. With a rrp style pole. It has a 735 with a fpp pipe and a 144 pump. It's sooo sketchy to ride. But it did flip in the surf.

I know a guy that has 2 jetsurfs. He races them and even gets paid or used to by jetsurf to give lessons to people. I've never tried it or really see anyone close to my size be able to ride one. They look fun but I'll still rather have my freak over the jetsurf handle pole or not. They're quick...

I'd go used oem over sbt as well. I bought a competitive crankshaft built for a 550 5 or so years ago and it was very nice. Upgraded rods and Japanese bearings. Jeff was awesome to.deal with. I wouldnt hesitate to send him another crank again. Wsm is a good option if you can find one. Sbt used...

Never hurts to do a heat cycle then retorque the bolts.

Witchcraft black magic ritual happening right before your eyes and using the innocent to do so. #neverforget

Definitely power to be had matching the cylinder to the sleeves.

If you're trying to keep it light then I'd definitely recommend multiple layers of thinner cloth like 8oz 2+2 twill or this 8 harness satin weave 7781 8.9oz that us composites sells. Its very strong and doesnt require a lot of resin to wet out. You'll use less resin then use a layer of biaxial...

I filled mine in and run dual feed, dual pulse a/m 44s with 61x flame arrestors with 1 screen. I also drilled the internal restrictors out inside the carbs so I can adjust fuel pressure with a main jet on the outlet side of the return tee coming off the carbs. Used a fuel pressure gauge to check...

You'll have to remove the intake manifold and use some epoxy putty to fill the crossover tube in. Your issue very well may not be carb related at all. It sounds like it could be electrical related since carb changes have made no difference.

What intake manifold are you using? If it's the stock 760 manifold, did you fill the crossover tube in? If not, that will definitely affect tuning the carbs. Also, those the stock 760 carbs as well?

Those carbs are not designed to run that way. I bet if you set it up with dual pumps and dual feed, and plug the crossover, your lean issue will go away. Also the front carb should be the slave carb, not the rear. Those gold 38s are similar to the oem but different and flow more fuel. Similar...