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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-1997-1999-GP1200-Jet-Pump-Drive-Shaft-/124808274232?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 They are cheap on eBay. Get shaft cut by @Sasquachcrap and get bearing kit and wear ring from @JetManiac

Yup

Disconnect start connector at Ebox and short it with a piece of wire. If it turns over, start stop switch is likely bad.

pop off ridiculously high could cause this. are the arms bent at all going to the needles? they should be basically straight but if they are very bent it could prevent the needle from ever opening. dumb question, but are you sure you have the feeds hooked to the correct spots on the tank? two...

Yes

Try @tricky1 if you haven’t already. He might still have a few in stock idk

I swear I’ve seen cheapo ones that are the more gray color though? I could be wrong…

Hey - couldn't find any threads on this... Is there an easy way to identify a stock/oem bendix vs an aftermarket one? I always try to scoop these up on ebay when i see them cheap but i honestly don't know if I'm just buying a used aftermarket bendix half the time... -Jordan

Yes on two different motors. No perceivable difference in performance. Zeel is more sensitive to fueling though. You have to be more spot on. Makes me sort of believe the MSD “hotter” spark theory.

Been wondering for a while and planning to test when I get my spare MSD setup back. I think older MSD TL systems specified running the two coils in series on single channel systems so I’m hoping that will work. I know the zeel puts out plenty of power but I’m curious if the higher voltage...

Agreed my f150 was dent free when I traded it in for a f250. Aluminum by nature will sheer easier I think but it’s so worth it to not worry about rust. Whatever u get, fluid film the frame every year.

What kinda work will it be doing? It’s between Ford and Chevy for me but if it’s in the north east, doing salt stuff, etc, the aluminum is the way to go (Ford).

Posted the solution in your unnecessary duplicate “urgent” thread https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/urgently.203469/

10 seconds of googling http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29557

It dawned on me that there are a lot of trick names I don’t know and a lot of confusion on variations of the barrel roll. Maybe we need an index? Barrel Roll = traditional trick where ski moves forward while tail rotates around the nose. ??? (I call these spins) = ski does not move forward...

Around here we use Vaseline just wiped in the steering nozzle before every ride

Sorry to hear about this @Lumberjack and sorry to thread jack, but @Quinc can you elaborate on this a bit? I’ve always thought about calling them to order trim and steering cables. Extra throw would be huge for me. Do they know off the bat what I’m talking about if I call and say I need a super...

Optional wedged speed plate would be cool for situations where clearance to hull is tight. Just 2-3 degrees towards motor. Obviously not ideal for performance but would make life a little easier on tiny hulls. Swappable cable mount to either side is nice (like XS). Oringed manifold to reeds/case...

So the ngk chart doesn’t mention what type of core this is. Do we know if it’s still a copper core?

He’s selling a complete ignition setup with Ebox stator and all I think. Go check prices on used 760 front covers, stators, flywheels and Eboxes. To build a complete setup you end up close to $1k these days.