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I had no luck with plates and shimming plates-- hull extensions are the best way to keep the nose flat.

The first year ZXi stator will interchange. Also the 99 and 98 750 Xi Sport will not interchange.

Did you rejet your carbs per the FPP specs? What flame arrestors do you have?

You do not need to take your entire ski anywhere. There is nothing magical about a ski with a total loss system. I could understand someone not wanting to try and make it work, but to remove and replace the components is not difficult at all. It would be REALLY easy to unbolt your stator and...

I knew the 3729 did not have a timing retard built into the curve, but did not know the same was for 3728-- thanks for the info.

I used to go to Greg. Took my ski to him a few times to have it tank tuned and it still sucked when I got it to the water. One too many bad experiences there led me to learn alllllll of this and how to fix and tune my own ski. There are a lot of people I would recommend before him... Are you...

That CDI will run the ski, but it is not the same curve as the one that ski came with. And that box will definitely NOT bolt into an SXi Pro, but the guts could be transferred and work fine. Check the compression on that motor and then pull the head and see what size domes they are. I check...

That is definitely a SP CDI, and not the ideal one to have. You could replace the CDI, or use the R&D 6* advance plate in the stator cover. You just have to be really careful with your compression and the fuel octane you run, as it adds quite a bit of advance to the upper RPM range. If you...

SP is Small Pin and BP is Big Pin. It refers to the size of the piston wrist pin, which I think are 20 and 22mm, respectively (I think, I can't recall at the moment if that is their actual size). The SP cases have 10 studs on the intake side, and the cranks use smaller, lighter webs. The BP...

I would use a standard Kawi coil when you go to the advent. The stock kawi unit works just fine. Don't buy the garbage marketing line from MSD. It looks like you got a stator out of a BP ski, and an ebox out of a SP ski, which is fine, except the stock CDI in the SP skis is not as good as...

If you want to run the aluminum FW you have now (assuming that is what you have) just keep in mind that you have to frequently check the torque on those things as they are known to come loose on people. Personally, the weight savings on the aluminum unit is not worth the hassle-- knock the...

Personally, I would take all the MSD stuff and throw it up on eBay or something. What ski did the ebox and stator come out of that you have? I assume you have an aluminum flywheel on the ski right now? I would put everything back to stock until you are ready to get an advent. Once you get an...

Are you sure your ignition is "total loss"? Have you pulled the stator cover to look at your flywheel? If I were you, I would go back to an OEM flywheel, and OEM stator and cover (will have correct pickup), and swap to the advent. None of those parts are difficult to swap out.. If you decide...

Those mods will work on an 800 motor in your hull and possibly an 800 or 750 in an SXR hull. Cost wise, it will prob be a good deal cheaper to keep it a 750. People price 800 cylinders like the sleeves are made of gold or something-- and people pay it! I guess they just don't know any better...

I prefer small pins for recreational use. The SP has smaller, lighter, crank webs and lower exhaust port time-- both make for better throttle response/bottom end. I am interested in the motor if you sell it. PM me...

I am having similar issues. I have an SXI Pro and want to move my Solas pump 2" towards the rear. I found out this weekend that the prop sits about 1/2" further back in the solas pump vs. the stock pump. I have an extended SXR shaft intended for use with a setback mag pump in an SXR (+3" over...

Milling a stock head only creates issues if the person doing the work is a MORON and doesn't know what they are doing. Obviously if you mill down past the undercut in the domes, you will need to reshape the domes and fix the squish band. If the person doing the work doesn't understand this...

PM thundercat (above). Word on the street is he might have some stashed. Though from what I understand, the Factory Dry Pipe was loosely modeled after this and is made of an aluminum that is less prone to cracking.

Which one though? Is it the stock carb that came on there, or is it the 42mm. If you leave the flame arrestor stock, the stock jetting will have you closest. If you wen to an aftermarket flame arrestor (a waste of money), you are on your own for jetting. This is assuming the stock Keihin...

NM... didn't see your comments in between the pics... Stinger goes to the front of the boat. If the manfiold doesn't work like that, you indeed have a screwed up mani. Or maybe a previous ownder did like that on purpose to run the pipe straight out the back and use an inline silencer...