B-pipe cooling, routing water lines

[hangtime]

This is because you are running a FC valve. It allows you build better pressure behind the valve. W/O the FC valve the pisser would come off the straight leg of the T.

Charles

thanks . So without a flow control the straight part would go to pisser and not stinger but with it goes to stinger and not pisser .
This $hit is starting to get confusing :frown:
Now to just figure out what works best for my hand warmer set up :banghead:

really though the only reason for dual cooling would be for backup I dont see any other beneficial use for it.

Explain if I'm wrong please as you guys know more than this newb for sure :hail:

 

[Freestyleriverrat]

go through the thread a couple times, that should anwser most of your questions up to the flow control valve position and restrictor size. Sent Jetworks and email and will wait to hear back from them.

 

[Freestyleriverrat]

i find if you dont preheat the wate rin a factory b-pipe then the power is to short with no overrev
you can adjust the screws i know
but it still find you end up running the screws almost closed to get to the point where you want to be for good surf type hp

flat water freestyle i am not sure

Tough call, in freestyle you don't have a whole lot of WOT for any length of time. So if not much water is flowing through that circuit it may allow the exhaust temp to build, where as in racing you would have more water passing through the head pipe if one line were dedicated solely for that.

Who knew there was so many techincal factors to consider on this topic. I think were are making progress and highlighting many good points.

 

[freestylegeek]

Jett has hit everything right on so far.
He and I have discussed this sooo many times that we both know the drill now. Even cylinder cooling, high headpipe pressure with tight screws, and a fairly dry, yet cool stinger.
You can talk and type all you want, but the real proof is when you pull the trigger.

I tried a few cooling set-ups with my Lamey motor, and the one I'm running now (true dual circuits) is the most responsive.

 

[SuperJETT]

If there is that much concern about clogging a line, mcmaster.com sells nice strainers of which I have one.

You just have to try this setup, there is a difference in response with this setup, and it's better.

Jett has hit everything right on so far.
He and I have discussed this sooo many times that we both know the drill now. Even cylinder cooling, high headpipe pressure with tight screws, and a fairly dry, yet cool stinger.
You can talk and type all you want, but the real proof is when you pull the trigger.

I tried a few cooling set-ups with my Lamey motor, and the one I'm running now (true dual circuits) is the most responsive.

 

[freestylegeek]

If there is that much concern about clogging a line, mcmaster.com sells nice strainers of which I have one.

You just have to try this setup, there is a difference in response with this setup, and it's better.

I want to know about the guys that are worried about overheating their motors. Do they not look at their bypass fittings?

 

[Freestyleriverrat]

You can talk and type all you want, but the real proof is when you pull the trigger.

I tried a few cooling set-ups with my Lamey motor, and the one I'm running now (true dual circuits) is the most responsive.

Thanks geek, nice to get some test and tune feedback on the topic. When you break it down, the ture dual circuits makes the most sense as far as properly regulating the temp of the cylinders and pipe. Thus far I think it is the most refined and practical setup.

I now don't really see a reason to run duals through the manifold, depending on the restrictions on the systems I see more potential for over cooling which can be just as damaging as over heating. Everyone has agreed that one line is more than enough to cool both the cylinders and head pipe......so we should all keep that in mind. Maybe I'm just lucky but I have been riding on the Ohio river for 3 seasons and not once have I ever clogged a line.

 

[hangtime]

not once have I ever clogged a line.

Me either .not really a big concern for me .Just wanted duals so maybe I'll try Jetts setup :haha:

 

[Frosty]

I want to know about the guys that are worried about overheating their motors. Do they not look at their bypass fittings?

Exactly...

 

[freestylegeek]

...not once have I ever clogged a line.

I've clogged my a line at least 3 different times, and I've never overheated my motor. When it gets clogged, I pull out my strainer, rinse it off, blow the line back throught the pump (if neccisary), and reassemble everything and ride again. If I'm riding in shallow or debris filled water, I tend to look at my bypass fittings even more often.

I have to admint that it's a lot easier with 45 degree fittings that with 90's.
You can see water comming out in your peripheral vision all the time.

 

[Frosty]

I've clogged my a line at least 3 different times, and I've never overheated my motor. When it gets clogged, I pull out my strainer, rinse it off, blow the line back throught the pump (if neccisary), and reassemble everything and ride again. If I'm riding in shallow or debris filled water, I tend to look at my bypass fittings even more often.
.

Sames here... I have clogged mine a few times... just watching the pissers let's you know. I can tell which line is clogged by seeing which one of the pissers is not flowing right. Then I kwow which line to pull off while on the beach. Usually takes a few minutes to blow it out and I'm right back in business.

 

[michael950]

This is how Paul explained dual cooling in a previous conversation via email:

Mike, The 2 lines coming from the pump MUST go to the 2 lines on the manifold, Then the 2 lines coming out the head, one goes thru the pipe & the other goes overboard.

 

[Freestyleriverrat]

Here is what jetworks emailed back to me:

Original messageHello, I just bought one of your flow control valves for my 701 SJ w/ b-pipe and mod chamber. We are having a pretty in depth debate on X-h2o.com on how and why to route the lines on this set up. My two specific questions concerning the flow control valve are: *What is the proper position to mount the valve while running a bypass as well? Straight through the t-fitting or off to the side or does it matter? Why *What size pisser do you recommend if you have dual circuits (dual lines, one just to the cylinder the other only through the head pipe)? Factory pipe and Pro-tec recommend 4mm pisser but that is irrespective of a flow control valve. Here is a link to the discussion: http://x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=1667

"If you are using a separate dedicated cooling line to the headpipe only . The valve is installed after the tee and before the stinger I would install a 4 mm restrictor going to the bypass fitting, and I would install a 2 or 3 mm past the valve and near the stinger. I would tune the boat as far as the amount of water you are injecting in the head pipe and adjust the jetting to obtain the best rpm using the 3 mm in the stinger. Then do a check on the rpm by just swapping out the restricter from 3 mm to 2 mm .I think you will end up with a 2 mm at the stinger. I would install the straight end of the tee to the bypass and the teed off to the valve. This recommendations are for this particular information based on the information you have provided and not for all applications.
Set the on point of the water flow on the valve for 3000 rpm .I would not recomend higher than 4500 rpm.
I hope this answers your questions
Thank you
Art"

 

[Freestyleriverrat]

Obviously there appears to be no right or wrong way of doing things, just some ways appear to be more efficient than others. Whether running single cooling from the factory, dual cooling through the manifold or dual circuits it is important to understand the how's and why's of your set up so you can more accuratly guage the adjustments you need while tuning your boat.

 

[SuperJETT]

One thing I noticed about Jetworks' reply, they mention "best rpm". I could care less about rpms.

 

[michael950]

On a side note, FP EXPLICITLY states to have the 90 off the Tee go to the stinger and the in line of Tee to the bypass.

I guess its a personal preference.

 

[S&Ssuperjets]

Ahhh.....I see what you are saying. I guess we can title the is pic "The Right Way to Route Dual Cooling Lines w/ a Flow Control Valve". I was mainly focused on the water to the stinger. That makes sense.....so it should be along the lines of this:

This is how mine is is this wrong ? has been that wat for two years .

 

[S&Ssuperjets]

the way it is in the pic :banghead:

 

[S&Ssuperjets]

like this :woot:

 

[SuperJETT]

On a side note, FP EXPLICITLY states to have the 90 off the Tee go to the stinger and the in line of Tee to the bypass.

I guess its a personal preference.

Here's a serious question for you, *why* would they say that? What do you think the reason is?