- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
Looks really good man....I like the idea of doing the glass on the inside of the hull cavity for the back end vs. doing it on the outside as I was planning. Good call on that one.
Super Jet Basic SN build !Completed! *Tuning time*
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
So I am getting ready to start mine. I am planning on cutting the whole tray out like you did. Did you de turf and than cut? I am thinking that is a waste of time might as well do a rough cut first with the turf on and than clean up the remaining turf than do a finer more accurate cut.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I de-turfed first. Only added another 5 minutes. Also use strips of tape to mark what you want to cut so you have a straight line. And when you start to get frustrated and overwhelmed try and concentrate on the next step rather then how much work it is going to be to finish it.
And beer! Have lots of beer on hand.
- Location
- Hudsonville, MI
X2 on the beer! When I don't know what to do, I take a step back and look at it while drinking beer. Seems to help... Or make me care less and then I seem to get more done.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
Got some more done today.
Used tin foil to get an accurate pattern:
Folded it to match what I was looking for:
Dog wondering what I am doing:
Cut it so I could lay it flat and trace it over the fiberglass
Dry fit the fiberglass:
Once the glass was covered in resin and mostly stuck to the hull I covered it with wax paper and used my hands to mold it around. It stuck pretty good to the hull but I taped it for extra insurance.
I added a little white epoxy dye as a test as well. That's why it is so white looking and not yellow.
Used tin foil to get an accurate pattern:
Folded it to match what I was looking for:
Dog wondering what I am doing:
Cut it so I could lay it flat and trace it over the fiberglass
Dry fit the fiberglass:
Once the glass was covered in resin and mostly stuck to the hull I covered it with wax paper and used my hands to mold it around. It stuck pretty good to the hull but I taped it for extra insurance.
I added a little white epoxy dye as a test as well. That's why it is so white looking and not yellow.
Last edited:
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
Very nice man...Thanks for the advice and yes I agree on the beer. Lots and lots of beer helps. I have stripped my hull down to nothing once before, did patch work, made footholds, installed...remade footholds, painted turfed ect. It does take a crazy amount of time and effort to get it right.
I like the tinfoil idea. Make it a lot easier to cut the cloth. How many layers do you have on the inside and outside? Looks like 4 in total?
I like the tinfoil idea. Make it a lot easier to cut the cloth. How many layers do you have on the inside and outside? Looks like 4 in total?
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
This last one makes three. Turned out great too, I highly recommend the wax paper and using your hands to get it stretched out and go where you want it.
I will probably do one more on the inside.
I will probably do one more on the inside.
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
That came out really nice...do you mean use wax paper ontop of the wet cloth to shape it and than remove?
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
Correct, although I left mine on and peeled it off after it dried. I ran into an issue with the glass not completely sticking to some spots so I ended up sanding most of it off. Hoping to finish that rear part on Sunday and then start the hull reinforcement next weekend.
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
Sticking to the hull in some spots? Did you have it mixed right..I have made that error before.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I think it is because I mixed it with the paint brush. At least I hope that is the issue.
Hopefully I have the last part of the rear done. I made sure it was 100% sealed on the inside and this last layer on the outside will be cosmetic.
Also put a layer of 17oz on the bottom of the hull and used the fiberglass roller to make sure it doesn't have any bubbles. Neat little tool.
Question:
What are you guys doing for the inside of the hull where the ties for holding the hoses, wires, exhaust used to be?
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
I don't have an answer to your question as I don't ride surf ...so never done any reinforcement, but I might have an answer to the non sticking question I molded a chin gaurd outta glass once and used foil to put in between the mold and the glass. It never dried 100% so you might have had the issue with the wax paper. I don't know if its not getting enough air for the proper chemical reaction for full curing but I laid a second one with the same mixture of glass, no foil and it dried great.
By no means am I an expert on glassing but that seemed to correct the issue. BTW...I cut my tray open this weekend. Had 4 inches of standing water in the bottom along with about 3 inches of water soaked foam. Did you have that experience? Or was our foam simply water soaked. I found the foam not to be as wet as I would have though...but WAY more water than I could have ever anticipated.
By no means am I an expert on glassing but that seemed to correct the issue. BTW...I cut my tray open this weekend. Had 4 inches of standing water in the bottom along with about 3 inches of water soaked foam. Did you have that experience? Or was our foam simply water soaked. I found the foam not to be as wet as I would have though...but WAY more water than I could have ever anticipated.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
4 inches of standing water is A-LOT! All of my foam on the outside was wet, the center was fairly dry. Did you weigh the foam after you got it all out?
So tin foil is the best stuff ever. I am using it for all of my templates and only takes a couple minutes at most. I am also trying to get the paint off the outside of the hull and holy $h1t! it's a pain in the arse, I have tried aircraft paint stripper and the du-pont paint stripper and even with the help of a wire brush it doesn't work...
Making the template with tinfoil
fresh layer of 17oz biax
All the way up to the nose.
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
The reinforcement looks really good. Yes tin foil works...I hope my previous post triggered that. I forgot to mention when I did the chinpad, I used tinfoil to create a template. My mistake was I left it in the mold to see if it would be a better release than the wax. Well, it was but it ended up not ever curing 100%.
I didn't weigh it. I am planning on taking this project all the way with lowered hood, chopped nose, tubies, pole moved forward, new foot holds, etc. So, the weight won't really be a good comparison. I am also gonna do a poor mans scupper, add trim, and drain plugs to help for future water intrusion.
Looking good man..I haven't even gotten all the foam out of mine yet. I pulled the nose foam out (pain in the rear) and have about 80% of the tray cleared.
I didn't weigh it. I am planning on taking this project all the way with lowered hood, chopped nose, tubies, pole moved forward, new foot holds, etc. So, the weight won't really be a good comparison. I am also gonna do a poor mans scupper, add trim, and drain plugs to help for future water intrusion.
Looking good man..I haven't even gotten all the foam out of mine yet. I pulled the nose foam out (pain in the rear) and have about 80% of the tray cleared.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I am starting to think I would have been better off working overtime and buying an A/M hull. Been to cold to lay glass so spent the last two days sanding off the paint.. What a pain in the arse!
I think I am going to paint her Ford Grabber blue or similar. Anyone have any recommendations on a decent filler primer, paint, and clear coat that isn't to expensive? Also what are you all using for paint sprayers? I was thinking about these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/58-horsepower-airless-paint-sprayer-kit-60600.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
When I painted my hull I used the cheap stuff from Autozone and its held up pretty well for the last 5 seasons. Just make sure you shoot like 6 coats of clear on it.
Regarding the amount of time you are spending on sanding and body work. I did that on my first build and if you plan to make this a freestyle hull and ride it hard...don't worry as much about it. I think my paint looked good for like 2 rides, maybe three or four and than the nicks and scratches showed up quickly. These types of skiis get beaten to death it you are riding them correctly. I think on this go around I am gonna take a palm sander to it and than spend more time spraying primer than sanding. Also, I plan to spray like 6 or 7 coats of clear on it.
Just my $.02 man....I can say I spent so many hours sanding sanding sanding just to be pissed a month later after I got the proper use out of it.
One other thing..do you have an aluminum pole? I don't remember. Once I got ski running properly I think I nose stabbed it only a few times and snapped the pole at the base.
Regarding the amount of time you are spending on sanding and body work. I did that on my first build and if you plan to make this a freestyle hull and ride it hard...don't worry as much about it. I think my paint looked good for like 2 rides, maybe three or four and than the nicks and scratches showed up quickly. These types of skiis get beaten to death it you are riding them correctly. I think on this go around I am gonna take a palm sander to it and than spend more time spraying primer than sanding. Also, I plan to spray like 6 or 7 coats of clear on it.
Just my $.02 man....I can say I spent so many hours sanding sanding sanding just to be pissed a month later after I got the proper use out of it.
One other thing..do you have an aluminum pole? I don't remember. Once I got ski running properly I think I nose stabbed it only a few times and snapped the pole at the base.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I have been using a palm sander and it still sucks! haha My plan is to sand to 320grit and then use a lot of primer. And thanks for the advice on using more clear coat! Do you clear coat the bottom of your ski too? I snapped my pole early in the season and have an aluminum one now. Also Are you going to start a build thread?
