Super Jet Basic SN build !Completed! *Tuning time*

[lamar311]

One way valve is what I am calling an poor ma's scupper as its been called for a long time. I even fabbed a screen to keep debris out of the one way as that is also an issue. Shouldn't be for me now. I also have dual bilges set up.

I really don't agree that you wont take on that much water. I have riden aftermarket hulls and have subbed/stabbed them and there is plenty of water you take on. But with the correct draining system it will go away.

PVC is the ticket for the trim cable. its whats in there already for the steering.

BTW the one way set up with 2 inch tubing is liek $26 bucks and I bought the screen for like $2. Its a slick set up.

Yeah true, but going through losing a ski would still be a horrible experience. Doing all the work again,etc. Have you done the hood mod yet? Remove stock liner, make a new one, get a good hood seal, a ratchet hood strap, and you shouldn't take in much water..Nothing two bilge pumps can't handle for sure.
Check out verisplugs if you're going to do a scupper, or run a one way valve underneath the tray(like the home depot cheap method) and then a scupper flap on the end. Much more expensive, but more reliable.. I'm still going to run a modded hood, ratchet strap, watcon hood seal, dual bilges(1200 gph and possibly an 800). I'm not worried

Epoxy wise.. By volume. Put in 3 ounces of resin, 1 ounce of hardener, etc. Easy & quick. I'm using the pumps that come with it, but I measure it with my eyes and the lines on the cup..
You could weigh it, that's what I heard tom21 say once i think? Scale will be a couple bucks, but super accurate. I don't see how using the marks on a container isn't super accurate either though. Just whatever works as long as you get the ratio right.
Trim line: I'd think pvc would work, and I just looked up cooling line: 3/8 OD stainless tubing about 20-24 inches long.

 

[Roseand]

Meh. I don't trust one ways that much. Of course you're going to take in some water, but if you have your air intakes setup right you won't take in as much. Nothing compared to the amount you take in with a stock square hood. Running a stock square hood with the stock liner takes in sooo much water. With everything sealed up you won't have a problem keeping up with 2 bilge pumps, you could probably do just fine with one. Yes, if you're deep subbing and going underwater you'll take in much more water, but that'll be the only times you really need to turn on dual bilges or use your scupper.
Whatever works, I don't feel like getting into the scupper vs bilge pumps argument, there's plenty of threads about that on here.
just my .02

 

[Sparkplug]

I have a couple modded square hoods. They work. Is it worth the time? Debatable. If your keeping it and going to ride it for at least 2 more seasons, yes, if not, no. IMO.

Should come ride the river next time it storms like this. Gets crazy up by redding. Talkin if the ski comes out of your hands, your never getting it back. Intense.

 

[Roseand]

I have a couple modded square hoods. They work. Is it worth the time? Debatable. If your keeping it and going to ride it for at least 2 more seasons, yes, if not, no. IMO.

Should come ride the river next time it storms like this. Gets crazy up by redding. Talkin if the ski comes out of your hands, your never getting it back. Intense.

yeah modding a square hood is an absolute PITA. At least getting the old liner out is..

 

[Quinc]

I have a couple modded square hoods. They work. Is it worth the time? Debatable. If your keeping it and going to ride it for at least 2 more seasons, yes, if not, no. IMO.

Should come ride the river next time it storms like this. Gets crazy up by redding. Talkin if the ski comes out of your hands, your never getting it back. Intense.

I might have to take you up on that! I am hoping for some crazy wind like last year, a nice steady 40mph should make some killer waves on Oroville.

Anyway what are you doing talking to us peasants now that you have Chan? :love:

 

[Sparkplug]

Lol. Chan is sooooooo 2013. Lol. I'm gettin a phantom. It's not here yet tho. Should be done being made end of next month. Then a month to build it. P

I still will ride my squares. The am hulls seem to wear you out faster so it will always be nice to have a built square. IMO. you will like your ski after your done with it. I'm thinking of hitting the ocean up next weekend. Arcata. If you don't got a ski you could ride one of mine. They are reinforced pretty well so no worries there. Couple of us are going.

 

[lamar311]

Here is where I am at with mine.

 

[Quinc]

Here is where I am at with mine. View attachment 235470View attachment 235471

That looks clean! How many layers are you putting there?

 

[Quinc]

Lol. Chan is sooooooo 2013. Lol. I'm gettin a phantom. It's not here yet tho. Should be done being made end of next month. Then a month to build it. P

I still will ride my squares. The am hulls seem to wear you out faster so it will always be nice to have a built square. IMO. you will like your ski after your done with it. I'm thinking of hitting the ocean up next weekend. Arcata. If you don't got a ski you could ride one of mine. They are reinforced pretty well so no worries there. Couple of us are going.

Going to be sooo cold! I would go but my wife is due that Sunday and would probably murder me if I told her I was leaving to the coast for the weekend. Please keep telling me when you go though I definitely want too!

 

[lamar311]

I have some of the thickest cloth available on the market that I used on the inside. I only needed to do two internal layers to match the thickness of the hull. The resit is filled with thickened resin. I used Cabosil to thicken it. That is probably about 1/8 of an inch thick.

It did come out really clean....I am pretty happy with it ...but as always...I could sand it more.

That looks clean! How many layers are you putting there?

 

[Quinc]

I have some of the thickest cloth available on the market that I used on the inside. I only needed to do two internal layers to match the thickness of the hull. The resit is filled with thickened resin. I used Cabosil to thicken it. That is probably about 1/8 of an inch thick.

It did come out really clean....I am pretty happy with it ...but as always...I could sand it more.

Sanding fiberglass is a PIA.. I sanded some all the down to nothing trying to get ride of the damn texture the strings cause... My plan now is to use more filler primer.

 

[Quinc]

Got to talking about skis yesterday at the shooting range and got motivated again!

Today I installed 1/2" pvc pipe through the hull so I can add trim later on. I went to home depot but couldn't find any aluminum 1/2 or 3/8 tubing.
Cut the holes for a lowered pipe. Still need to figure out how I am going to get the angle right though. Probably just cut it and re-weld it.

Also installed drain plugs on both sides. Drilled the holes for the plug and then took a little off around the hole for the lock washer. Then I threaded the holes and wrenched the drains into the hull. Followed by resin mixed with 404 filler. It is cold here now (low 40's) so I let the resin and harder sit in hot water for about 20 minutes before I mixed them.

From the outside: Welded a lock washing on the plug to help give it some bite and hopefully never come out:

view from the inside:

View of both drains:

Little extra heat to help it set:

 

[lamar311]

I love the plugs you fabbed. I have never seen that I was just going to try and buy them off ebay. I just cut the tube off and used 5200 and some resin on the outside. I don't think the flange on the end is really that important as the guy who builds hulls here locally leaves them the way I have mine now. IDK...I guess if it leaks like crazy we'll know.

 

[lamar311]

Here is where I am at. One way valve on the left and lowered exhaust on the right. The pvc tube is 1/2 to the pump tunnel area and is for the trim cable.

 

[Quinc]

I love the plugs you fabbed. I have never seen that I was just going to try and buy them off ebay. I just cut the tube off and used 5200 and some resin on the outside. I don't think the flange on the end is really that important as the guy who builds hulls here locally leaves them the way I have mine now. IDK...I guess if it leaks like crazy we'll know.

I am at a point where I just want to finish the damn thing and quit worrying about the little details. But I also have so much time, sweat, and fiberglass itch into that I don't want to cut any corners. The exhaust holes are so tight that I have to use a hammer to get the pipe in so it probably would be fine..

Another idea I had for the drains was 1/2" pvc end piece with the threads. If anyone makes a 3/8" pvc that would be good too. Cost about 2$ to do both sides.

Resin this piece into the hull:

Use this as the cap:

 

[Quinc]

Here is where I am at. One way valve on the left and lowered exhaust on the right. The pvc tube is 1/2 to the pump tunnel area and is for the trim cable. View attachment 235745View attachment 235746

Looking good! I am probably going to kick myself for not doing the scupper... Did you reinforce the rear sides? Damn I should probably throw a layer on there.

 

[lamar311]

Looking good! I am probably going to kick myself for not doing the scupper... Did you reinforce the rear sides? Damn I should probably throw a layer on there.

Thats a great idea with the plugs but what about these? Supercheap and in in like 10 seconds.
http://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-30...UTF8&qid=1385569569&sr=8-7&keywords=boat+plug

No I did not reinforce...I ddin't plan to as the foam is going in that area. The gunwhales have held up since 1990 so I don't think that will be an issue. I still need to cut all the foam. Super jealous you have yours already done. I know that is going to suck.

Why not do a scupper like I did? It will take you about 30 minutes to install and about $25. I make a screen to keep bolts/zip ties ect from getting stuck in the one way. I used 2 inch tubes so it should drain quickly. Also, when you go to the 2.5 you are look at a huge weight increase. I opted for the 2 inch. I can tell you exactly what you need to buy and you'll be done in a few minutes. I had PVC glue at my house so you might be into it for $35 if you have to buy all the glue.

 

[Quinc]

Thats a great idea with the plugs but what about these? Supercheap and in in like 10 seconds.
http://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-30...UTF8&qid=1385569569&sr=8-7&keywords=boat+plug

No I did not reinforce...I ddin't plan to as the foam is going in that area. The gunwhales have held up since 1990 so I don't think that will be an issue. I still need to cut all the foam. Super jealous you have yours already done. I know that is going to suck.

Why not do a scupper like I did? It will take you about 30 minutes to install and about $25. I make a screen to keep bolts/zip ties ect from getting stuck in the one way. I used 2 inch tubes so it should drain quickly. Also, when you go to the 2.5 you are look at a huge weight increase. I opted for the 2 inch. I can tell you exactly what you need to buy and you'll be done in a few minutes. I had PVC glue at my house so you might be into it for $35 if you have to buy all the glue.

That drain plug is sweet. I like that the plug stays attached so you wont lose it or forget to put it in.

Ok give me your shopping list! Maybe I will do the ball scupper on the back too for extra insurance. You probably just want me to have to recut all of my foam

Thinking the scupper up front like you have it and then a versi plug in the rear?

 

[lamar311]

Sorry for the delay in response...been away in Detroit for the Holidays and just getting back. BTW...I scored a lowered hood that was done with carbon fiber for $50 from a buddy of mine that was doing a similar project and gave up on it. It is only 10 lbs! I 'll post a pic here in a second.

So for the pour mans scupper. You'll need:

1. 1 - 2 inch one way valve (you can do 2.5 but they weight a ton more than the 2 inch)
2. 1 -3 ft length PVC (I think that is what lowe's sells them in for the shorter pipe)
3. 2 - 2 inch to 2.5 inch ABS coupler (if you can find it in Pvc that would be better but lowes did not carry them)
4. 1 - 2.5 inch metal screen sold in the plumbing section and used to keep hair and debris out of shower drains.
5. 1 - shortest length of 2.5 inch abs you can find. You need like 2 inches of it.

You'll need pvc glue and transition pvc- abs glue (has a green label). And thats it.

Instructions: Take 1 of the 2.5 inch couplers and drop the screen inside. Than take the 2.5 inch pipe and push it into the coupler so it locks the screen in place and glue it in. Cut that pipe off so the couple is flush. The screen will now be locked place and will go in the engine compartment to keep bolts or zip ties from getting stuck in your one way valve. Cut a 2 inch hole in the fire wall as low as you can in the engine compartment. Than glue in the coupler with the fatter side inside the compartment. Connect a small length of 2 inch pvc to the glued in coupler. That small section is where the one way valve goes. Than run the rest of the 2 inch pvc to the back. Cut another 2 inch hole and glue in the 2.5 - 2 inch coupler. Fat end out and glue in the rest of the tube. I did this all at the same time. Took me about 45 minutes to complete.

Make sense?

 

[lamar311]

Here are pics of the hood prior to nose chop of course. You can see the foam I have yet to cut behind the ski. I am going to go horizonal across the tray with the foam standing up. I think that will let me cut out all the tubes and such and use one piece as a template for the next.