Other bpipe pressure relative to amount to open the top water screw for best spray patterns

Fro Diesel

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
So would that spray up or down?

Looks like the spray pattern would be relatively horizontal. Thanks this photo helps.
 
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masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
you want it right where the head pipe meets the manifold to make the best low end to mid,same reason the top stock screw gives better low end
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
The other water injection thread for pfp is worth a read also.using the reverse flow control valve on the top screw and giving just enough water from the lower screw to keep from burning up the couplers works well for a ski used in chasing wakes and other faster speed applications,still loose a bit of low end power with the extra water needed not to burn up couplers,but depending on the use of the ski,can be worth it.
 
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
So for best bottom end it is best to use the Top screw?

Edit: Fixed picture
lNfAGtG.jpg
 
Last edited:
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
My plan is to open/close the top adjuster until the chamber sizzlers around 200ish degrees. Coupler I have is good to 350F so should be safe. :D
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
I just remembered that I recently bought one of those laser "LASER" thermometers... I should use that to check my chamber temps. Thanks for reminding me.
 
catpower

catpower

Location
iowa
Factory Pipe

Instructions

Universal ECWI® Kit


The Factory Pipe Electronically Controlled Water Injection (ECWI®) Kit can be installed on most all Factory Pipes that use either the standard (Kawasaki) or AB@ style (Yamaha) headpipe. It is also suitable for most other aftermarket and stock exhaust pipes. The installation of this kit requires some minor machine work (drill and tap) to the pipe as well as some disassembly of the exhaust system.


Disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Remove whatever is required, depending on your exhaust system, to access and remove the headpipe.


Do not attempt to drill & tap the headpipe while it is installed on the engine. Doing so may cause metal chips from this operation to go inside your cylinders causing severe damage.


Illustration #1 shows the location of the tapped hole for the 1/8" NPT x 1/4" Fitting w/Sprayer (Item#10) on a standard Factory Pipe 3-bolt headpipe. This area of the headpipe is solid and does not have any water jackets. This is the only area we recommend drilling & tapping for the sprayer on a Factory Pipe system. Most other stock or aftermarket pipes will also have a solid area at the mounting point to the manifold. The closer to the source (exhaust ports) the water can be injected, the more effect it will have. However, mounting the sprayer too close to the ports may allow water into the engine in some situations and should be avoided. The sprayer must also be located prior (closer to the exhaust ports) than any fixed water injection hole in the pipe. Locate this point on your headpipe and mark it with a center punch.


Before drilling the hole, align the headpipe on the manifold and check that the marked location will provide clearance for the fitting and the attached hose.


Drill an 11/32" hole (you may use a smaller Apilot@ drill first) completely through the cast flange and into the exhaust passage. Tap this hole from the outside using a 1/8" NPT tap. Check the depth of the threads as you are tapping by removing the tap and hand installing the 1/8" NPT x 1/4" Fitting w/Sprayer (Item#10). It should thread in almost the entire depth of the threads (2-3 threads still showing). Be careful not to tap the hole too deep or the fitting will not seat correctly. Remove any burrs and clean all metal chips from the headpipe.


Install the 1/8" NPT x 1/4" Fitting w/Sprayer (Item#10) into the headpipe using Teflon tape or some pipe thread sealant. You will notice that the sprayer slot is cut on an angle. This is the direction the water sprays into the exhaust passage. The sprayer slot must point up into the headpipe with the flow of exhaust. Do not point the sprayer down in the direction of the manifold. Tighten the sprayer into the headpipe until the slot is pointing in the correct direction and the sprayer is secure.


You will need to choose a high pressure waterline to supply the filter-solenoid assembly. We recommend using the main cooling line directly from the pump. Find a suitable location and cut the waterline (remember that the 1/4" silicone hose must reach the sprayer fitting and the solenoid wires must reach the connector from the water controller). Slide a #6 hose clamp (Item#12) on each side of the cut waterline and install the filter-solenoid assembly into the waterline with the threaded cap end as the Ainlet@ side. Secure the 1/2" hose clamps. Note- The filter-solenoid assembly ends are 2" diameter but will accept 3/8" waterline.
 
HiImScott

HiImScott

masterblaster said:
swap...seen that more than a few times, put some waterweld in the hole and sand it flat.
Click to expand...

masterblaster said:
Nice man.Most people have no idea how much water is coming in the bottom and mid screw even when they think they are closed or even in some case when they are closed they still spray alot,I epoxied more than a few now,its very simple to drill out. A msd spray bar with the correct size jet plumed in right behind it added even further up the headpipe right over the mani works even better,directionaly spraying upwards into the exhaust flow. gives the ultimate response and low end power with a slightly larger sacrifice of top end power
Click to expand...

Masterblaster, I apologize in advance for the long list of questions but here it goes...I have the issue where my bottom screw still gushes tons of water even with the screw all the way closed. The hole must not be centered perfectly, and I'm trying to fix it.
  1. I see you mentioned using an "epoxy" in a couple comments but you also mentioned using Water Weld to fill the hole. I kind of thought of Water Weld as more of a "putty" than an epoxy so I just wanted to clarify what you actually use for this? Have you had any failures with this, or has it always worked well? I would have thought that the original JB Weld would be better than Water Weld since it is both stronger and can withstand higher temps. Any thoughts on this?
  2. When you do fill it with epoxy / waterweld do you do it with the set screw all the way bottomed out and tightened down?
  3. After you fill the hole do you drill it again in an attempt to get back the adjustment with the set screws, or is it one of those deals where you fill it shut and live with the fact that the hole will no longer spray water again. If you do drill it again, how do you make sure it's centered?
 
cookn

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
What gains will I see switching my 3/8 line to 1/2 from bulkhead to pipe. I am running it direct from pump now with top screw open 1/4 all 3/8 lines. I would think I would need to run 1/2 all the way from the pump to see any benefit correct?
 
swapmeet

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
^^^ You're always limited by the smallest diameter in your chain.
If your pump hardware and/ or cooling lines through under your tray are less than 1/2", then you shouldn't experience any difference doing going up in size.
I'm no expert on this topic mind you, but i'm 90% sure my theory is accurate.


@masterblaster
HiImScott said:
Masterblaster, I apologize in advance for the long list of questions but here it goes...I have the issue where my bottom screw still gushes tons of water even with the screw all the way closed. The hole must not be centered perfectly, and I'm trying to fix it.
  1. I see you mentioned using an "epoxy" in a couple comments but you also mentioned using Water Weld to fill the hole. I kind of thought of Water Weld as more of a "putty" than an epoxy so I just wanted to clarify what you actually use for this? Have you had any failures with this, or has it always worked well? I would have thought that the original JB Weld would be better than Water Weld since it is both stronger and can withstand higher temps. Any thoughts on this?
  2. When you do fill it with epoxy / waterweld do you do it with the set screw all the way bottomed out and tightened down?
  3. After you fill the hole do you drill it again in an attempt to get back the adjustment with the set screws, or is it one of those deals where you fill it shut and live with the fact that the hole will no longer spray water again. If you do drill it again, how do you make sure it's centered?
Click to expand...
 
FLY6584

FLY6584

Location
Clearwater, FL
Excellent write up. I'm currently setting up my B1 for Spec class racing. With a need for good bottom to top end pull what would be a good balance for settings?
 
cookn

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
I guess the better question then is what losses am I looking at running the 3/8 line and is it worth it to put in the 1/2 line.
 
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