C.A.T.S. - Cheap Arse Trim System - post yours!

ncbrock

ncbrock

Location
Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
ksarge91 said:
You have a protec cable right?

The housing on mine was in three different segments. One black one (maybe 10 ft.) a metal one in the middle (4 or 5 inches) and another black one (a foot or so) I took the smaller black one and the metal one off leaving only the one long black one. Don't know if that's your problem but I don't have any slack.
Click to expand...
i have a lot of slack, probably more than 1 foot, but i guess i could try that, where on the ski is this "other black one" at? are you cutting the cable or what?
 
ksarge91

ksarge91

Location
King of Prussia, PA
There's 2 segments of housing and a metal piece in between the two. I took the metal piece and the short piece of housing off leaving only one pice. That piece runs from the lever, two a through hull fitting, to a threaded rubber socket, which I threaded a bolt with a hole through it into. This is bolted to the top left reduction nozzle bolt. That keeps the cable in place. I cut the barrel off the end. To attach the cable to the trim ring I just clamp it between two washers. That way I can use as little cable as possible due to not having a set endpoint.

Before doing this I definately had a crapload of extra cable. I'll take a picture of the cable attached to the trim ring tomorrow for you.

...I just confused myself
 

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Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
i

grezzmky said:
I called and said that I wanted the jetski trim cable. she said "No problem!" and I got wat I got... Can I add a barrel with a setscrew on the other end?
Click to expand...

That will not last long the set screw puts the wire rope in a bind. I would send the cable back to them and have them put a barrel on the end of it for you.

Mark44
 
Foximus

Foximus

CFL Cheapass.
Location
Oviedo, Fl
Anyone use the X metal cable yet? I'm thinking of buying it for my X2 trim nozzle... I still havnt found a good cable yet... I want something with a normal bike lever barrel end for the lever and then I want a threaded log end like a kawi steering ball joint.


Right now I'm using a bike brake cable for half which is i use a set screw to bind/connect to a steering cable Ive cut in half. it sucks. LoL.
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
Foximus said:
Anyone use the X metal cable yet? I'm thinking of buying it for my X2 trim nozzle... I still havnt found a good cable yet... I want something with a normal bike lever barrel end for the lever and then I want a threaded log end like a kawi steering ball joint.


Right now I'm using a bike brake cable for half which is i use a set screw to bind/connect to a steering cable Ive cut in half. it sucks. LoL.
Click to expand...

Just tell Terry Cable what you need and they can make it up you need to know dimensions wire rope size end types etc.

Mark44
 
Foximus

Foximus

CFL Cheapass.
Location
Oviedo, Fl
hrmm... yea.... I just got off the phone with TerryCable.


I'm not so convinced they understand exactly what I need, or that I'll get exactly what I want. Id rather spend twice the money and get exactly whats pictured from X metal. That for sure looks like a sweet cable.

xmetal-trim-02.jpg
 
freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Foximus said:
...I'm not so convinced they understand exactly what I need, or that I'll get exactly what I want. Id rather spend twice the money and get exactly whats pictured from X metal. That for sure looks like a sweet cable.
Click to expand...

If you can afford it, get the Xmetal set-up. It's a much better set-up. The C.A.T.S. is hokey, but cheap. The Xmetal is a little more, but better designed.
 
Foximus

Foximus

CFL Cheapass.
Location
Oviedo, Fl
Well this is for my kawi 140 pump, so I only need a cable, not their entire system. its $75. Worth avoiding the hassle if you ask me. I was gonna design up a hydrolic system, but meh... thats a hassle to, and I dont have much room in my hull anyway.
 
W

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
Part of my CATS system that may help others (pictures to come when finished):

i'm using this for my cats trim...if you think of the raider trim ring, i'm gonna trim off the top, then tap into it again, installing the threaded end into the trim ring.

i am going to take my terry cable with the attachment they give to you to (for the non-barreled end) and have it welded into the female part of this piece. If the cable breaks, i can just unscrew the allen screw thats in the piece that terry cable gave me and attach a new cable into the existing piece.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/P...0634116961&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1075

ItemDetailScreenBallJointLinkageBentSwivel.gif
 
W

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
mcdog said:
Cool idea. Post the pics when you can. Are you going to rig a spring?
Click to expand...

No spring. Here are the pictures that I have so far. Basically from left to right i have:

(all in pic 1, left to right)
1. 90* Ball joint listed here: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/P...0634116961&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1075
2. Reducer Coupler that fits the ball joint above and the otherside to a 1/2" hex ss bolt http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/P...0634116961&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1075

3. jamnut
4. trim ring that i tapped with a 1/2"-13 tap
5. SS Hex bolt (2" long 1/2"-13).

(pic 5)
I'm going to take the part that TerryCable gives you and have it welded into the female end of the ball joint.
 

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W

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
i will do make a step-by-step thread for the idiots like me when i get a chance of how i did my whole setup (after its done) and post it up here
 
IKSTEJ

IKSTEJ

BOGIE
Location
Region 7
just a thought but if you cut the arm off the trim ring and weld it closer to the pivot point, it'll double the throw...
hope that makes sense
We had that in mind when designing all of our parts, its a nice way to save $$ and still have a good setup.
our cable mount, and cable pretty much solves all of your needs. ( for CATS )

Woody said:
No spring. Here are the pictures that I have so far. Basically from left to right i have:

(all in pic 1, left to right)
90* Ball joint listed here: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/P...0634116961&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1075
Reducer Coupler that fits the ball joint above and the otherside to a 1/2" hex ss bolt http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/P...0634116961&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1075

locknut
trim ring that i tapped with a 1/2"-13 tap
SS Hex bolt (2" long 1/2"-13).

(pic 5)
I'm going to take the part that TerryCable gives you and have it welded into the female end of the ball joint.
Click to expand...
 
W

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
IKSTEJ said:
just a thought but if you cut the arm off the trim ring and weld it closer to the pivot point, it'll double the throw...
hope that makes sense
We had that in mind when designing all of our parts, its a nice way to save $$ and still have a good setup.
our cable mount, and cable pretty much solves all of your needs. ( for CATS )
Click to expand...

thanks for the thought.

i had that idea too...but when doubling the throw, you're also doubling the amount of power you have to pull on the lever. when you pull on it from up there, i'd assume that you would have more leverage to pull the trim. after hearing some people complaining that it was super hard to pull their levers, i figured i would start high and make my way down.
 
Ludde

Ludde

Location
Gothenburg, Sweden
I'm thinking about building a C.A.T.S this winter, but I just wonder about how big the steering nozzle needs to be? Does anyone have the dimensions of the Waverider steering nozzle? The inner diameter between the pivot bolts and the inner diameter at the outlet? The lenght would also be interesting.

Hope someone can help me with this.

Please excuse my bad english, I'm a stupid Swede... :wiggle:
 
masterblaster

masterblaster

X-H2
wouldnt worry about the hard pull,I dont care how you do it,your not going to be able to pull it under any throttle.Everyone is letting off the gas for a second in thier setup then pulling the lever,doesnt matter where your pull point is,it comes in easy this way,but just has more degree of tilt if placed in the right spot. Once the lever is in you have the mechanical leverage over it to keep it pulled back under wot ,if a cheap thin cable is used,when you go back on throttle it will just stretch the cable enough to straighten out the nozzle,so dont waste time with a crap cable or trying to fig out how to get it to pull easy under throttle...aint gonna happen
 
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