- Location
- Grayland, WA
sooo um. long beach is next weekend and grayland open the weekend after....
SXR Cannibal's build - IS FINISHED!!! decks split, rocker nose, -3
- Thread starter Cannibal
- Start date
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
Shoulder is doing better. I really only feel it when I stretch, which I try to do a couple times a day.
Seriously lacking on the updates here. When I'm home, I'm in the garage. I'll see what I can do here at work if I get time.
Not making Long Beach, I have a wedding to attend anyway.
Grayland is the big push.
Seriously lacking on the updates here. When I'm home, I'm in the garage. I'll see what I can do here at work if I get time.
Not making Long Beach, I have a wedding to attend anyway.
Grayland is the big push.
agua
FIshing for Stand ups
- Location
- Seminole, Fl
I tore my cuff acouple years back, terrible pain. I couldn't pick up a glass of water. Good thing they didn't put you through surgery, usually people dont recover as well as when they just let it heal. Just keep doing the stretches and theres a few things you can do with a 2 lb weight to build the muscle back up so that it doesn't tear again.
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
Chopped the hood lower and laid carbon inside. I've since faired it out and cleaned it up.
Just a quick mock up pic again.
Built myself a PFP waterbox. The exhaust goes behind the carbs.
Mock up. Yes, that's the gas tank I plan to use for now.
Pic of the motor mounts stripped out down to glass.
Machined motor plates
Mixed up some epoxy and Cab o Sil and glued in motor plates. The engine was bolted in while they cured for weight and placement.
Added a little foam to allow for even carbon/glass layment.
Laid the carbon/glass/kevlar. You can see a bit of the kevlar poking out. This stuff was soooo crazy to work with. I've worked with carbon/kevlar weave, and that was no problem, but this stuff was some seriously thick stuff and wouldn't cut at all with the rotary razor cutter and my sheers I've been using for everything else bearly cut, like 1/4" at a time. This and the glass was laid at a 90* where the carbon lays at 45*. I had the kevlar already and thought this would be a nice addition after seeing Matt's motor plate pull right through the carbon on his hull.
In this pic you can also see that the left motor mount (on the right side of the pic) has an extra hold drilled. Measure twice, cut once. I used a 9/16 spade bit to drill the carbon down to the motor plate where the holes were just simply taped over to keep the resin out. I filled this hole last night with thickened resin and sanded a chunk of cured carbon to make some carbon dust and used it as dye. It worked well.
To keep the motor plate bolt holes from ever getting effed up again, I plan on using studs that are siliconed in. That 9/16" spade bit recess will allow for some silicone to seal it off nicely. The problem will be that the motor will have to basically be completely loosened to change a motor mount instead of just unbolting the one and sliding it out.
I've also glued/glassed the battery mounts in, and bilge bracket.
The filling and fairing is really a bitch. Since I'm using epoxy, I fill what I need to, then have to wait until the next day to sand.
Just a quick mock up pic again.
Built myself a PFP waterbox. The exhaust goes behind the carbs.
Mock up. Yes, that's the gas tank I plan to use for now.
Pic of the motor mounts stripped out down to glass.
Machined motor plates
Mixed up some epoxy and Cab o Sil and glued in motor plates. The engine was bolted in while they cured for weight and placement.
Added a little foam to allow for even carbon/glass layment.
Laid the carbon/glass/kevlar. You can see a bit of the kevlar poking out. This stuff was soooo crazy to work with. I've worked with carbon/kevlar weave, and that was no problem, but this stuff was some seriously thick stuff and wouldn't cut at all with the rotary razor cutter and my sheers I've been using for everything else bearly cut, like 1/4" at a time. This and the glass was laid at a 90* where the carbon lays at 45*. I had the kevlar already and thought this would be a nice addition after seeing Matt's motor plate pull right through the carbon on his hull.
In this pic you can also see that the left motor mount (on the right side of the pic) has an extra hold drilled. Measure twice, cut once. I used a 9/16 spade bit to drill the carbon down to the motor plate where the holes were just simply taped over to keep the resin out. I filled this hole last night with thickened resin and sanded a chunk of cured carbon to make some carbon dust and used it as dye. It worked well.
To keep the motor plate bolt holes from ever getting effed up again, I plan on using studs that are siliconed in. That 9/16" spade bit recess will allow for some silicone to seal it off nicely. The problem will be that the motor will have to basically be completely loosened to change a motor mount instead of just unbolting the one and sliding it out.
I've also glued/glassed the battery mounts in, and bilge bracket.
The filling and fairing is really a bitch. Since I'm using epoxy, I fill what I need to, then have to wait until the next day to sand.
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
Ya, I couldn't even hold a beer in that hand after. Hurt like crazy.
I opted out of the MRI, if healing didn't make progress, I would have. Surgery would have been the very last resort.
I have a piece of surgical tubing tied in a loop that I stick on the door handle and resistance train. Been doing both sides to strengthen the other.
This left shoulder has been injured before, back in tech school during an arm wrestling match. Never been the same since.
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
you going to be done by grayland?
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
Trying my best.
Paint is going to be the big issue. I was hoping to use epoxy primer, but 16 hrs before recoat/sanding sure makes an issue with the limited time.
Same thing with the paint I have. It wants 3 coats at no less than 16hrs between recoats. I don't have 2 days to kill for priming and another 3 for painting.
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
spray paint that bitch!
Just go to Eastwood.com and get a gallon of the 2K primer/hardener
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
How much paint is acutally needed for a ski? I imagine that whole gallon won't go on a ski. I was figuring a quart would do. No?
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
I guess by the time you buy 2 quarts, you might as well buy a gallon.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
2 quarts.
You can get 2 WET coats of primer on a full sized car with a gallon of 2k primer. A quart with activator and a splash of reducer should be all you would ever need to cover a ski, unless you leave gnarly sand scratches and attempt to fill them with primer.
dirtnut99
Yardsale Master
- Location
- Aberdeen, Wa.. The PNW
Umm Daven, recheck your calendar... Grayland is 2 weeks after Long Beach...
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dirtnut99
Yardsale Master
- Location
- Aberdeen, Wa.. The PNW
At most my old 750 took 2qts... If you want me to I'll talk to Jason about spraying it tomorrow... He could maybe get away with it at his work in the booth too if he has time. Just remember reassembly time once it's painted..
Sent from my iPhone4 using Tapatalk
A friggen quart of Omni 2k costs almost the same as a gallon from Eastwood, 59.99 plus the hardener (30.00), and some shipping. Google coupon codes, I ended up getting shipping free by spending $100
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
Ya, I looked at the Omni at Car Quest after work, chaching. The 2k primer Napa carries is a lot cheaper and a Sherwin Williams re-branded product.
Casey, it won't be ready to prime before the weekend, so I can chat with him about priming/painting at the wedding.
It does have some gnarly scratches that I'll try to sand out best as possible. I'm sure it will get primed, then some imperfections will show up. So I'll have to get it back, do some mild filling/fairing and then get it reprimed and painted.
Don't think that flat black Krylon hasn't crossed my mind.
Pretty sure I'm going flat black anyway. With as many gel coat cracks this thing has, when they eventually show up through the primer and paint it will be much less noticable. No way I'm sanding this all the way down to glass, soon as you get through the gel coat, so many imperfections show up. It will require massive filling.
Casey, it won't be ready to prime before the weekend, so I can chat with him about priming/painting at the wedding.
It does have some gnarly scratches that I'll try to sand out best as possible. I'm sure it will get primed, then some imperfections will show up. So I'll have to get it back, do some mild filling/fairing and then get it reprimed and painted.
Don't think that flat black Krylon hasn't crossed my mind.
Pretty sure I'm going flat black anyway. With as many gel coat cracks this thing has, when they eventually show up through the primer and paint it will be much less noticable. No way I'm sanding this all the way down to glass, soon as you get through the gel coat, so many imperfections show up. It will require massive filling.