DIY Total loss or MSD TL upgrade box 270USD?

Myk

Location
Garland, tx.
Yea. I bought one from maniac.


On another note in continuation of my journey. I took the ski out to do some testing with the TL last Friday. Didn’t get to put it in the water so it sat all weekend. Rode 5 gallons Sunday. And checked the voltage. 12.5v. Took 1.5hrs to completely charge the battery at 1.25amp. Think I’m gonna be just fine on TL with this deka 9.
 
I got my zeeltronic in and rode yesterday. It definitely made a difference in performance. I'm running a stock flywheel and charging and it pulled a lot cleaner. No carb changes other than idle so far.
Thanks augustaf for the setup.
 
I'll look into flywheel this winter. Where we ride there's few places to stop off and restaurants to visit. I'll keep it charging for now for the starter side. Same reason I kept the oil injection, get gas anywhere.
3rd lump was removed..
 
Location
La
There is no dealers in the usa as far as i know. You have to buy direct from zeeltronic. If there was a dealer it would just become more expensive
Hi I just received my zeeltronic but for some reason it’s not programmed. I thought it had your Wax curve installed? If you don’t mind could you please send me the points and what to select and what not. My ski is a Kawasaki 650 X2 with 750 electrics. I have an mikuni 44, factory pro pipe limited, ski is ported and cases tunneled, skat 8/16 big hub swirl impeller, flow control valve and drilled waterbox. I also have two flywheels one total loss and the other lightened. Do you also have another good cure I can program for curve B maybe more aggressive on low end? Thanks
 

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
Hi I just received my zeeltronic but for some reason it’s not programmed. I thought it had your Wax curve installed? If you don’t mind could you please send me the points and what to select and what not. My ski is a Kawasaki 650 X2 with 750 electrics. I have an mikuni 44, factory pro pipe limited, ski is ported and cases tunneled, skat 8/16 big hub swirl impeller, flow control valve and drilled waterbox. I also have two flywheels one total loss and the other lightened. Do you also have another good cure I can program for curve B maybe more aggressive on low end? Thanks


Send it to me, ill install either the original wax curve, or the wax V3 free of charge.
Just pay shipping

Ski ya, Paul
 
Location
La
Send it to me, ill install either the original wax curve, or the wax V3 free of charge.
Just pay shipping

Ski ya, Paul
I have the computer programmer and I’m also waiting for the handheld computer programmer to arrive. I downloaded the software and realized it’s not programmed. If you don’t mind is it possible to send me the specs of each?
Thank you
 

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
Ok, if you plugged the programing cable into the cdi, you need to tap the
“Read” tab to read the actual program on the cdi?

If you still find it blank? Pm me your email, and ill send you the wax curve
 
For what it's worth, I have a couple of these that I bought the "GP760" version with the Yamaha plug and they all came programmed with wax curve and the Yamaha settings, I just set up my first zeel on a Kawasaki which came as the "Kawasaki" version with no plug, and it was completely not programmed, I had to set all of the settings as shown below.

Curve 2 is the Wax curve, Curve 1 is a slightly milder curve that I pulled out of my backside based on mashing together some other curves I've seen for Kawasaki motors online.

The static angle was set with a timing light and I was surprised because I have seen conflicting different numbers for Kawasaki static angle and what I measured matched none of them. BUT....I am not confident it is right. I set it only while cranking then double checked it running but i couldn't really get my head in there to see the mark when it was running because there was a fuel tank in the way, so don't trust it, check it yourself with a light (I'll be double checking my own soon). Also I have a wierd combination of a 650 motor running 750 electronics for the zeel so that might or might not affect the static angle.

Totally unrelated thing that I found interesting. I was checking the angle using the "+ only" triggering and noticed that with plus only triggering the motor has to crank a few times before the cdi starts firing, with "+ and -" it starts firing right away. It makes sense that with (+) only it has to get a few triggers in there to calculate an rpm value, with (+ and -) it doesn't. So to me that is the first actual good reason to choose one over the other for a watercraft, so I'm using "+ and -".

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Location
CA
As an aside, more input on total loss runtime. My previous numbers was a close guess on the hours, I forgot because I switched flywheels at one point.

Had a trip this past weekend and clocked exactly 4.0 hours on my meter, and the battery still had 12.05 volts when we got home. This was with a healthy ETX16L. It was mostly short rides so lots of starts/stops and minimal bilge pump use. I'm really happy with it.

Carry on...
 
Location
CA
Something I discovered before our last trip, and is still happening now, is I hooked up the computer programmer to the extension ribbon I ran to the fuse cap, and it's not connecting to the CDI. I tried disconnecting/charging the batt, firing up the ski etc things to see if anything changed it but no change. Computer picks up the programmer but not the CDI.

Ran it on our trip because all was well, got back and same symptoms.

I am sure the extension cable likely worked itself loose since everything else is stellar.

Food for thought if it's happened to anyone else. I'll be pulling my ebox eventually to check it out but not that concerned.
 
Location
La
As an aside, more input on total loss runtime. My previous numbers was a close guess on the hours, I forgot because I switched flywheels at one point.

Had a trip this past weekend and clocked exactly 4.0 hours on my meter, and the battery still had 12.05 volts when we got home. This was with a healthy ETX16L. It was mostly short rides so lots of starts/stops and minimal bilge pump use. I'm really happy with it.

Carry on...

Nice,
I have a small antigravity 8 amp batt I’m going to try it with a total loss flywheel, not sure how long it may last. I also have a 16 amp antigravity batt on my sitdown I may have to exchange. Experimenting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Location
CA
Nice,
I have a small antigravity 8 amp batt I’m going to try it with a total loss flywheel, not sure how long it may last. I also have a 16 amp antigravity batt on my sitdown I may have to exchange. Experimenting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm personally not sold on lithiums yet in a PWC, but that's just me. But... one big plus about them is you can discharge them (nearly) all the way. I don't plan on taking my ETX16L below 40-50% for longevity, which is roughly 8 amp hours useable. Rougly: A true 8-10 or so AH lithium battery gives you theoretically about the same useable capacity as a 16 AH wet battery taken down to 40-50% full. You might be just fine on your 8 AH lithium.
 
Location
La
I can answer here.
I use a dial indicator in the spark plug to measure tdc. I then calculate the degrees of piston movement for 10 degrees and also 20.
From there i rotate the engine until i see the same on the dial indicator and mark a mark on the coupler
So one mark for tdc, ten degrees and twenty degrees.
I then put a 10 degree straight line in the ignition and crank the engine on the starter and using a timing light i check to see where it is.
From there its a simple case of adjusting the static angle until ten degrees in the ignition is 10 degrees on the crank with the timing light.
I then do the same for the 20 degree just to check my work.
From then its a case of running the engine and watching the rpm come up and checking your work. You will find that the a battery driven timing light will not keep up with the high rpm and the ones that are fired of the spark plug only are your only option.
They are not bright but they are cheap. Im looking for deviation in the curve and if i do get it then I put in a correction factor
I have been runing them like this for years. Well to be fair only 5 years on the zeeltronic but I have been doing it like this on other ignitions for the last 10-12 years.

Can you think of a better way and if so please explain it to us, as I am always keen to learn new stuff
So I just received my zeeltronic pics-02t and I want to find the static angle of my 650 with 750 electrics. If I’m understanding you correctly your are making a curve that is flat line across all the rpm range points at 10 degrees advanced and another flatline for the 2nd Curve at 20 degree advanced and load that on your zeel. Then start the engine and check with your timing light across the rpm ranges to see if your 10 degree mark on your coupler is aligning with your pointer (this is testing the 10 degree curve). Then you load the other 20 degree curve and same test.
So after those test curves, time for the real wax cure to be programmed on the zeel. Can you test with a electronic timing light and set ignition advance on the timing gun and rev up to desired rpm and it should align with TDC (like 1000rpm at 18 degree)?


Instead of using an online calculator to find out degrees based on piston travel, Im thinking of using my timing wheel and marking the flywheel at TDC another mark at 10 and 20 and run the test. But I think I could just simply put down the degrees on my timing light and check to make sure my TDC is being marked? What do you think about this method?
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
Yes that’s right. As long as you get tdc accurately that will be fine. The rest you have spot on. Then simply adjust the static angle until you match up the degrees to the marks
 
I'm personally not sold on lithiums yet in a PWC, but that's just me. But... one big plus about them is you can discharge them (nearly) all the way. I don't plan on taking my ETX16L below 40-50% for longevity, which is roughly 8 amp hours useable. Rougly: A true 8-10 or so AH lithium battery gives you theoretically about the same useable capacity as a 16 AH wet battery taken down to 40-50% full. You might be just fine on your 8 AH lithium.

I don’t know about that... Discharging a lithium too much will damage it.
 
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