DIY Total loss or MSD TL upgrade box 270USD?

Ran it like that this past monday and it did not run good. Front cylinder was super lean also. That’s why I thought I may have to scrap my old jetting setup completely because I switched over to zeel TL from stock cdi / charging flywheel. I’m getting ready to ditch the zeel setup and go back to stock cdi with my old settings just so I can go out and have fun.
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
Ran it like that this past monday and it did not run good. Front cylinder was super lean also. That’s why I thought I may have to scrap my old jetting setup completely because I switched over to zeel TL from stock cdi / charging flywheel. I’m getting ready to ditch the zeel setup and go back to stock cdi with my old settings just so I can go out and have fun.
Only the front cylinder was lean? Sounds like an air leak then.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
The setting I ran last year with stock cdi was 120L/142.5H 2.0 N&S 95G spring LS 1 1/2 HS 1 1/4 and it ran damn good all summer. Put an easy 40-50 hrs on ski.
That setting is way to rich that you were running. the specs you have with the 130 low and the 110 high with 2.3 n/s with a 95 gram spring is spot on for 760 carbs
To save me going back through all the posts you have a b-pipe yes and how is it set up.
How did you determine the front cylinder was lean ??
 
Rode for 2-3 min and then pulled plugs. Front cylinder was burning almost white. B pipe is set up the same it was last year (it ran good) those settings are top closed mid closed bottom open 3/4.

All mods I just did this spring:
- installed 148 solas mag pump 10/16 skat prop
- installed fresh set of wiseco pistons (145/145 compression right now, running stock head)
- installed zeel cdi / 760 oem TL flywheel (both bought from an X member that was running them)

Setup that ran good last year:
- stock Yamaha 144 pump with oem prop from gp760 pitch was somewhere around 12/16 this pump was in pretty rough shape , but actaully worked decent last season.
- stock pistons
- stock cdi / stock charging flyhweel
- carb settings 142.5H/120L 2.0 N&S 95g spring

At this point I have tried both carb settings (110H/130L 2.0 N&S 95g spring) & (142.5H/120L 2.0 N&S 95g spring) neither of which are running even half decent now - which is why I’m scratching my head thinking something else is wrong here. Not carb related. Like I mentioned before when I first rebuilt this setup in the spring I fired it up and it sounded AMAZING. Ever since first water test it has sounded “different” and wont even idle. Tried swapping multiple set of plugs. Thanks again for any and all advise.
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
Check for air leaks. Put hand over carbs and see if front one is pushing air back out (bad reeds). Rev on trailer with flame arrestors off and visually check if u get similar fuel out of the boosters in each carb
 
Yes stock carb linkage and they are both opening all the way open. I am real close to undoing everything I’ve done - putting back to stock. And then trying again in winter to get zeel running proper. I have the stock cdi/ flywheel. When I was running it with the flame arrestors off I could visually see gas coming out of atomizer on both carbs.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
Yes stock carb linkage and they are both opening all the way open. I am real close to undoing everything I’ve done - putting back to stock. And then trying again in winter to get zeel running proper. I have the stock cdi/ flywheel. When I was running it with the flame arrestors off I could visually see gas coming out of atomizer on both carbs.
I dont think its the zeeltronic. please download the curve you have on it and send me a copy. sales@waxracingproducts.com
 
Is that a 10/16 impeller with a 148 pump? This is a 701 right? I'f so the 10/16 is wayyy too much impeller for a 701. That is more like a 1000cc pitch for a 148 pump. I'm running a 7/14 with a 148 mag and a ported 735. I'd start there first.

I went back and reread what all you've done. So you ran the same 760 in your reaper last season and recently rebuilt it, installed a zeel, and upgraded to a 148 mag pump with a 10/16, and rebuilt the carbs and changed out the adjuster screws? You could have a combination of things here, first as I mentioned before is the impeller. Being too tall will load the engine super hard and may not let the engine rev out.
 
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Is that a 10/16 impeller with a 148 pump? This is a 701 right? I'f so the 10/16 is wayyy too much impeller for a 701. That is more like a 1000cc pitch for a 148 pump. I'm running a 7/14 with a 148 mag and a ported 735. I'd start there
This does not explain why it’s running poor even out of the water now though. I understand if under a load and it bogs could be the pump setup.
And yes I do know I am over pitched on this prop. I am more of a free ride guy not a lot of freestyle. It is a 760 not a 701 (not that it’s that huge of a difference) and going with TL zeel setup I figured would be okay to run. But like I mentioned I’m having issues even out of the water on beach cart at this point.
 
Could something up with those adjuster screws being a different taper. You might just need to adjust those out more or try putting the old ones back in.
Yes I already have ordered the proper screws - I put back the stock ones the next morning after I made that post. I never took it to the water with those ez adjusters installed. They are wrong size for 760 oem 44s. Im pulling flywheel today to verify key is not sheared. I was freaked out by both cylinders firing at the SAME time. But I have been told that is normal on older Yamaha setups. I’m just checking over everything at this point. Would like to verify my crankseals are still good also. I did not touch the bottom end this winter just fresh set of pistons , installed zeel cdi / TL flywheel
 
So I verified keyway was still in tact - everything with flywheel looked exactly how I put it. Stator & pickup have no rub marks / broken cables. While I had the motor apart I threw on the stock milled 760 head I have and compression is now 165,165. Pulled carbs again to verify reeds in tact - they still look like they are brand new (vforce 3 reeds) made sure settings were 1 1/2 in low speed & 1 1/4 on high speed. Put everything back together MINUS THE HOOD. And test fired. Once again she came alive and sounds amazing OUT of the water.
 
I am almost beginning to think it is something to do with the way my bilge is wired in? The person who built this ski used the red hot wire coming off the stock cdi to power the rotary bilge switch & bilge pump. Even with the ski off I could still use the bilge pump. They blocked & capped off the rest of wires (green, pink) and just left the red hot and ground to run bilge- that being said can the zeel run the same way? Or am I drawing too much power from the cdi and causing it not to function proper??? I am scratching my head hard at this one. I plan on wiring bilge right to battery with switch and not running it off the cdi harness. I wish I could post up a video- by the time I was done running it today I finished with settings low speed 1 high speed 1. Was super rich.
I am mind boggled at what caused / causes this ski to run the way it did last week & why it was so lean in front cylinder when it did this issue. I plan on taking it to water one day this week.
 

long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
I would post a picture of the inside of your ebox somebody will chime in right away. I use the temperature sensor to power my bilge but I hook the pink wire to the battery side of the solenoid It’s a sealed wire,and you don’t need it anyway works well. I wouldn’t get power off anything attaching to the cdi.
 
Here are pics of my flywheel / keyway / stator - all looked perfect. I will open up my ebox this week and get picture when I download and swap out for waxes V3 curve. It’s the wires that would normally plug into the cluster that I’m referring too.^^ I believe 4 pin - (pink, green, red , black)
 

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Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
It pains me to say this since all I ever do is talk about how good zeel is, but I think there may be a bad batch of the newer version A02T. Just bought a brand new one as a backup. Lost a flywheel ring gear the other day and while I had everything apart I built myself a brand new ignition with sll new parts. Probably 2hrs on this ignition and it started running really bad then very shortly after developed a no spark condition. Checked everything thoroughly and all was fine. Swapped to the old zeel and got spark.

Ive been hearing several stories lately of these dying. I have to wonder if whatever components are in the new version can’t handle the boating environment.
 
It pains me to say this since all I ever do is talk about how good zeel is, but I think there may be a bad batch of the newer version A02T. Just bought a brand new one as a backup. Lost a flywheel ring gear the other day and while I had everything apart I built myself a brand new ignition with sll new parts. Probably 2hrs on this ignition and it started running really bad then very shortly after developed a no spark condition. Checked everything thoroughly and all was fine. Swapped to the old zeel and got spark.

Ive been hearing several stories lately of these dying. I have to wonder if whatever components are in the new version can’t handle the boating environment.

Who knows, maybe the demand is so high that some quality controls have been lacking?

You also sure it’s not an intermittent start stop switch going out?


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